What are you machining?

[Arc Tourist]

A little rainy day project for my nc750x bike. There have been a couple of videos showing a fix to change the slope angle on the seat to prevent sliding forward, which is an issue many have had. My solution was to cut and fit a couple of rubber walking stick feet on the existing bumpers to raise the front of the seat up about 20mm, and make an adapter bracket using the same bolts. So no permanent modification, and all is easily removed to put the seat back into stock configuration without damage.

A few photos....... To cut the rubber cane feet without messing them up, I slipped then over a scrap piece of 22mm copper pipe in a vice. This made it easy to tape a line around the circumference, and press hard to cut through without distorting. I then bent a U-shaped bracket to locate the tongue of the seat, and mark it to allow for two height adjustments before bending and drilling the ears; then gluing in a 20mm thick spacer which can be used either over, or under the new bracket. Once fitted and checked, a shot of paint and job done. The lighting in the last photo shows what looks like a large gap, but there isn't; its actually hardly noticeable.
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[Arc Tourist]

A little rainy day project for my nc750x bike. There have been a couple of videos showing a fix to change the slope angle on the seat to prevent sliding forward, which is an issue many have had. My solution was to cut and fit a couple of rubber walking stick feet on the existing bumpers to raise the front of the seat up about 20mm, and make an adapter bracket using the same bolts. So no permanent modification, and all is easily removed to put the seat back into stock configuration without damage.

A few photos....... To cut the rubber cane feet without messing them up, I slipped then over a scrap piece of 22mm copper pipe in a vice. This made it easy to tape a line around the circumference, and press hard to cut through without distorting. I then bent a U-shaped bracket to locate the tongue of the seat, and mark it to allow for two height adjustments before bending and drilling the ears; then gluing in a 20mm thick spacer which can be used either over, or under the new bracket. Once fitted and checked, a shot of paint and job done. The lighting in the last photo shows what looks like a large gap, but there isn't; its actually hardly noticeable.
.

View attachment 458133 View attachment 458134 View attachment 458135 View attachment 458136 View attachment 458137 View attachment 458138

An afterthought.

I initially overlooked that changing the angle of the seat's slope would also raise it at the rear, where two elongated rubber bumpers supported the back end of the seat. To sort the issue, I covered a couple of blobs of "White Tack" in cling film, so it wouldn't stick, and positioned them over the rubber bumpers, then installed the seat and tightened the two retaining bolts. Removing the seat provided me with the flattened White Tack which I then measured. I found a strip of neoprene which I bought by mistake when ordering a sheet to make an extension for my front fender; and fortunately the strip was about the right thickness to fill the gap. I cut a couple of pieces to stick on the bumpers for support, and the job is done properly now. The seat fits snug.

 

[E T]

I got myself some new indexable endmills.
two have a 20mm shank so I made another MT3 endmill holder for the mill from a old front output shaft from a LR serie 2a gearbox.
Less than 0.01mm runout on the endmill shank. I can live with that.
I'm still in doubt if I should cut down the shanks for a bit less stickout.

 

[Kram]

Less than 0.01mm runout on the endmill shank. I can live with that.
I'm still in doubt if I should cut down the shanks for a bit less stickout.

Runout typically grows futher from the chuck so I'd measure on the surface just above the inserts. If its the same then fair enough, if its higher you may want to shorten the shank.

 

[Tigman]

Not actually machined anything , but I picked this little backplate up and thought I would give it a spin , had to take off the gaurd and safety switch , remove the gap bed , (never been off the machine) , took a while to get it up and on with a lift and pull hoist but nice to see it working ! Took it to 125 rpm,

 

[Tigman]

This weighs 84 kg and is 680mm wide , 25mm to spare ! It has a little runout, may need facing off to get it true to the machine !

 

[brightspark]

a bit of strobe efect there

 

[Tigman]

Mesmorising isn't it ! I'm a sucker for big lumps spinning , it was going cheap so what the hell, I love it

 

[Brad93]

New pins, bushes, stubs and sliders for these arms.

 

[Maker]

The vice.

 

[voipio]

Ouch!!!

 

[Smouser]

I had to make a pulley for a Tom Senior mill.

I suspect a previous owner was hitting on the drawbar to eject the 3 Morse Taper horizontal arbor and missed the drawbar and hit the pulley.

It is basic stuff, but as a beginner it took me ages to make the bloody thing.

 

[Hood]

The vice.

View attachment 460467

You are not the first to have done that and you won't be the last

 

[MattF]

You are not the first to have done that and you won't be the last

That knowledge doesn't make it any less gutting when you damage something though.

 

[Brad93]

Forgot to take pictures today, too much of a rush, too much to figure out.

Managed to get a short video machining the weld build up on cast iron roots blowers.

 

[E T]

Made a knurling tool. Got the plans for €5 from this Canadian guy. https://d-gray-drafting-and-design.myshopify.com/
Build it from the offcuts I have in the shed. The only things I had to buy were the spring and two good quality HSS-CO knurling wheels.
I must say it does make a nice knurl.

 

[ukracer]

View attachment 462477

Made a knurling tool. Got the plans for €5 from this Canadian guy. https://d-gray-drafting-and-design.myshopify.com/
Build it from the offcuts I have in the shed. The only things I had to buy were the spring and two good quality HSS-CO knurling wheels.
I must say it does make a nice knurl.

View attachment 462478

where did your knurling wheels come from?

 

[E T]

where did your knurling wheels come from?

The brand is Integi. From Spain apparently.

 

[dieselsamurai]

Power feed motor is burnt out on the Bridgeport mill i acquired and replacement motors a fortune could get it rewound but contoller board smells fried too to decided to bin it all. An option would be a chinese power feed but one with an adapter for the shortened lead screw are a lot more money.
Decided to go down a different route still Chinese but using components i can easily replace , I worked out I need about a 120w 24v motor turning at 3000rpm to match the old motor usually £20 to £25

just had to cut the old motor off the input to the 8F housing its a wierd size 12.7mm



Then a simple case of machining an adapter for the scooter motor . Luckily theres a lip on the input housing and the outside is 4" lip is at 98mm so gives enough meat off a section off 4" bar i cut down, on the other side of the adapter is a recess the same size as the front of the motor so everything parallel



I found a small flexible coupling that machined out to 12.7mm the other end same as motor shaft



I think its worked out well add a speed controller and 24v power supply still under £100

Ive used this controller so easy to wire the forward reverse into the original lever that controls direction and has a bar on the front with adjustable stops

 

[Hood]

...

just had to cut the old motor off the input to the 8F housing its a wierd size 12.7mm

..

Otherwise known as 1/2"