Uhhh Ohhh...2000 Dodge Dakota Sill rebuild

  1. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

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    2,806
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    london
    JP, That looks really good....you should be very pleased indeed with the results. Also thanks for the great pics too.
     
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  2. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    971
    USA-NY
    thanks, PD2!
     
  3. mechman Member

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    1,906
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    great britain n.e.lincs
     
  4. B1N9S

    B1N9S Member

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    Conwy, UK
    Great job. I think we underestimate how long these little jobs are going to take !!! Stand back and enjoy now.
     
  5. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    971
    USA-NY
    thanks, B1N9S!

    I certainly have been....making good progress, but have much to go!

    In tackling the rear part of the sill under the rear door, I now remember why I hate rust!....

    We didnt have cavity wax or inner panel underseal for sale over here in general until very recently.....(unless you went to a restoration shop or specialty body shop supplier)...

    Sure you could get undercoating, but this didnt stop any inner rust from forming...which is what happened in my case. I had undercoated the sills and frame and underbody a couple of years ago, but it was already too late...I just could not see any of it!

    anyway...piles of rust on the floor again...but that stuff is coming out!.......I have the new panel roughly shaped and will try to get things in place for welding this weekend.

    [​IMG]


    arent deadlines a wonderful thing?

    JP
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2017
  6. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

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    2,806
    Location:
    london
    Hi JP....looking good....been there and done that myself too. Slow and steady is the way to get through it of course. I've heard of old timers using engine oil to protect inside panels but I prefer to use cavity way which sets a little so isn't such a mess. I thought you guys didn't salt the roads over there...NY does get pretty bad weather I know....worse than we get here in London.
     
  7. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    971
    USA-NY
    Hey, PD2

    yeah...slow and steady....Salt has been replaced with other spray chemicals....still corrosive, but I guess not as invasive to Mother Nature after it rains and with runoff.

    It looks like Ill have to replace a good chunk of the Inner sill right around the cab mount too...arrrgggghhhhh. I have some metal left over from the sill pcs I didnt use and will do my best to cut and grind everything out from around that mount. Unfortunately, it looks like the whole cab corner is compromised....so Ill have to just stop somewhere....and tackle the rest of the cab corner when I have the bed off....its a bit of a complicated shape, as it not only curves around where the door ends, but then doubles back for the extended cab section which is inset behind the beds lower fender area....so the bed has to come off anyway......

    Ill get it so that its sealed up from the weather the best I can before our vacation.....


    ahhh well...

    onwards...


    JP
     
  8. mechman Member

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    1,906
    Location:
    great britain n.e.lincs
     
  9. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    971
    USA-NY
    Hey, Mechman...yes, differs between counties and states......In our county in NY, there is no structural inspection unless frames are cracked, suspension hangers compromised, ect....In the neighboring State of CT....they have something much closer to what you guys have...(MOT)

    When Im done, I hope to be able to pass an MOT!

    so, I found a couple of other spots......

    the inner sill is rotted along the bottom all the way back to the corner...which is also compromised...but I can save that for a later day!...

    [​IMG]

    here is the piece that will make up the inner sill replacement.(thank the maker you guys are here on this forum to guide me.....its getting easier....paper template, find metal suitable, cut metal.....)

    [​IMG]

    Inner sill patch

    [​IMG]

    close up of the inside of the sill....there are overlapping layers of metal all through this section....they all tie in and add strength at or near the pinch welds...the drain holes are massive and help shed moisture, but also allow salt and corrosives to get in.....

    [​IMG]


    continuing.......

    JP
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2017
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  10. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    2,806
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    london
    I know it's bad news...but from our perspective the pics and repairs are fantastic so keep them coming. Yea our MOT is crazy...it's quite a detailed inspection. I often watch US TV where they chop cars up and customise them - if we did it here we have an even stricter inspection called an SVA!

    Sorry it has turned into a game of chase the rot...I've also found it easier to fabricate the repair panels before cutting out the rot. It can be quite hard if you cut it all out and then try to piece it back together....3 dimensional puzzle!!

    Lastly...love NYC...I was there for work a few years ago....great place...very busy but I like cities (I know NY state is also a big place)!
     
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  11. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    971
    USA-NY
    thanks, guys

    yeah NY is a huge state and has something for everyone...if you like season changes and doses of humidity!....

    got the new used bumper in place. Looks waaaayyy better than the old rotted out unit that was falling apart in huge chunks!....ironically it took a while to remove it...the bolts were rotted so bad I had to cut them all off....one more item checked off!....

    JP
     
  12. mechman Member

    Messages:
    1,906
    Location:
    great britain n.e.lincs
    JP, I've been to NYC a few times and used the Castle Irish bar on west 54th street as my local watering hole.
     
  13. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    971
    USA-NY
    Got a lot done today....very happy to have buttoned up the inner rocker as best I could....Its really hard to get to and I had to do most of it from under the truck...

    I found a few areas that needed small patches, checked for more rot and thin metal, and whereas it aint perfect...Ill keep it full of cavity wax so I can get a few more years out of it.....

    Outer patch in place:

    [​IMG]

    funky indent in the sill for the rear door corner when it opens

    [​IMG]

    Rear overlap....I tucked the panel just up underneath a little so I could get a good weld on it there...

    [​IMG]


    well thats all for now...Ill get that outer panel welded in tomorrow...then the computer and battery go back in...and we nervously turn the key again!

    JP
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2017
  14. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    971
    USA-NY
    ITS IN!....well, just about....and im pretty happy with it. The panel fit very well and needed small taps with a flat hammer as I went to keep things in line.

    I ended up experimenting with flattening the welds as they cooled and it helped if I got to them in time. then, I just tapped around the welds to flatten and smooth the panels as I went....

    How did I do?

    rear section

    [​IMG]


    top seam...this went well...I was able to get the hang of watching for the puddle...adjusting the darkness a little on the mask, and gently planishing (is that the right term?) the welds as they cooled.

    [​IMG]

    Ill buzz the bottom welds in tomorrow before work!

    JP
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2017
  15. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    2,806
    Location:
    london
    Wow...that looks excellent, you should be very proud.

    So whats this flattening of the weld...more importantly why have I never heard of it. Would definitely help with the cleanup I guess!
     
  16. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    971
    USA-NY
    Hey, PD2

    Well, its something that flattens the weld as it cools...I just tapped the weld with a flat hammer and it smoothed them out a little. then I made sure the two panels were lined up before wending again...
    This also forced me to let things cool down. I would say it helps when grinding as there are no real peaks or valleys that the grinder tends to hop over or get stuck in when you first start grinding things down.....


    I have ground back most of the welds and am not as happy as I was with the first panel. I think I got over confident and went a little too fast. there are several pin holes and it looks like I missed the seam altogether in 2 spots!....well, Ill be going in and patching things up....taking my time!....

    its quite a learning process...it is quite solid and overall Im very happy!

    JP
     
  17. octo0072000

    octo0072000 Member

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    5,365
    Location:
    south yorks
    Looking good :thumbup:
     
  18. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    2,806
    Location:
    london
    Don't worry JP...I had the same too....the pin holes are normal I think with stop/start. Thats a good tip on the flattening with a hammer...I use flap sanding discs (only the blue ones though!) for smoothing the welds....I found its a lot easier than using a grinding disc which tends to produce a lot of vibration and require a lot more care to avoid taking too much off. Personal choice I guess....so use whatever works best for you.
     
  19. jpmillermatic

    jpmillermatic Member

    Messages:
    971
    USA-NY
    thanks, guys

    yeah, I ended up finishing with a sanding disk...much easier on the metal and less heat. ....I rechecked the pinholes...most of them do not go through, I am relieved to say. just some slight porosity in the weld. I am using flux core wire with no gas...(sacrilege, I know) but am getting good results.....just rushed it a wee bit I guess.

    JP
     
  20. mechman Member

    Messages:
    1,906
    Location:
    great britain n.e.lincs
    What's your Dakota like (condition wise) for its year compared to similar models of the same year?
     
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