paradipiro
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Mmm.. that would explain it well.
- Thread starter Pete.
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Should work now 
paradipiro
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- Budapest, Hungary
paradipiro
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- Budapest, Hungary
I wasn't bored last weekend either.
My friend helped me measure the base element of the X axis, the wear was 0,12mm on the ends respectfully, parallelism was not bad.
Under the wedge, the original scraping was our base.
We decided to put it on a planer (a north korean one..) and get 0,2mm off from each side, to prepare it for gluing some turcite. The table was refurbished some time earlier, it only weared out around 0,005mm along.
As we measured out the ways, we found that the planed flat surface on the center was done in the same setup as the scraped ways in the factory, so it can be used for the further measurements.
My friend helped me measure the base element of the X axis, the wear was 0,12mm on the ends respectfully, parallelism was not bad.
Under the wedge, the original scraping was our base.
We decided to put it on a planer (a north korean one..) and get 0,2mm off from each side, to prepare it for gluing some turcite. The table was refurbished some time earlier, it only weared out around 0,005mm along.
As we measured out the ways, we found that the planed flat surface on the center was done in the same setup as the scraped ways in the factory, so it can be used for the further measurements.
paradipiro
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As another Saturday passed, here are the results of todays work:
My really first Trapezoid screw:
Then I pressed the Z-nut into its housing, and secured it with the original method:
I made the new nut 5mm longer, I don't wanted to turn this extra metal into useless chips.
With this enlarged dimension, the nut goes all the way through the housing:
The finishing touch was to put back this part on to the casting, so ihave a little more space on the workbench.
I also ordered the 0,5mm thick turcite for the X axis way, with its glue. I hope it arrives soon.
My really first Trapezoid screw:
Then I pressed the Z-nut into its housing, and secured it with the original method:
I made the new nut 5mm longer, I don't wanted to turn this extra metal into useless chips.
With this enlarged dimension, the nut goes all the way through the housing:
The finishing touch was to put back this part on to the casting, so ihave a little more space on the workbench.
I also ordered the 0,5mm thick turcite for the X axis way, with its glue. I hope it arrives soon.
Last edited:
Mark Davison
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Where did you order the Turcite from?
Brad93
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alibaba
paradipiro
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Aliexpress, i choosed the cheapest one. 0,5mm thickness is not awailable in every shop.
Does it stop you getting tight carriage in parts of the bed?
Pete.
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No, tightening on the ends of the bed is caused by bed wear.
You would scrape/grind the ways on the bed until they are true and you would mill/grind the carriage then apply turcite, then scrape the turcite.
paradipiro
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- Budapest, Hungary
Another Saturday passed:
- Fitted a bronze bushing into the cast X-axis nut, with the original antibacklash solution.
- Replaced the tube of the cord oiler in the oil chamber
- cleaned the oil chamber and got out some goo from the oil routes.
X-nut:
The oiler hole for the X axis nut:
I marked the depth of this lubricating point to the nut, then screwed it into the housing, then marked the oiler point on the nut, so i could drill it exactly where it is.
Later, I replaced the oiler tube, so I could drill it from the hole itself.. Doesn"t matter, it turned out well.
- Fitted a bronze bushing into the cast X-axis nut, with the original antibacklash solution.
- Replaced the tube of the cord oiler in the oil chamber
- cleaned the oil chamber and got out some goo from the oil routes.
X-nut:
The oiler hole for the X axis nut:
I marked the depth of this lubricating point to the nut, then screwed it into the housing, then marked the oiler point on the nut, so i could drill it exactly where it is.
Later, I replaced the oiler tube, so I could drill it from the hole itself.. Doesn"t matter, it turned out well.
paradipiro
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- Budapest, Hungary
The cord-oiler hole from the oil chamber:
The old tube, the copper rusted out(???)
The new tube:
The thread is M10x1
The goo what washed out from the oil routes: (like grinding dust, maybe residual from the original drilling?
)
How I cleaned the oil routes: brake cleaner to the farthest oil extraction point. The opposite side is blocked with a piece of paper after the cleaner comes out clean.
The old tube, the copper rusted out(???)
The new tube:
The thread is M10x1
The goo what washed out from the oil routes: (like grinding dust, maybe residual from the original drilling?
)How I cleaned the oil routes: brake cleaner to the farthest oil extraction point. The opposite side is blocked with a piece of paper after the cleaner comes out clean.
paradipiro
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- Budapest, Hungary
Yeah.. like all of us
I only have the saturdays to do some hobbying, and I'm happy that I have that day on most weekends for that.Thanks for a fantastic read Pete, I have spent hours reading through as I am rebuilding my Alexander Master Toolmaker. I am only scraping the multi axis table surfaces as I’m a beginner and can make things more flat tha they were but not ready for main ways yet (have a course with Clive in April which will help me pray is the right way).
This will be a machine for life when finished as I hope mine will.
Didn’t even know this part existed over here and seems a lot more helpful than the scrape it crowd over the other place (not all to be fair but some).
Will follow with interest and stick a thread up for mine.
This will be a machine for life when finished as I hope mine will.
Didn’t even know this part existed over here and seems a lot more helpful than the scrape it crowd over the other place (not all to be fair but some).
Will follow with interest and stick a thread up for mine.
Pete.
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Hi Colin,
The Alexander is a nice machine, there was one for sale down this way last year I did consider it but it was short of (all of) the attachments.
I will look forward to seeing your rebuild in progress.
