Jaeger_S2k
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 711
- Location
- Highfurlong, Blackpool. Lancashire
Someone with more skill than brawn.
- Thread starter monkeymark
- Start date
Memmeddu
Member
- Messages
- 5,298
- Location
- Italia Sardegna
Just having a look at mines.
Older one has bigger head, nice castings you can see were gases go through to read the tip
Lever is held in place by a stainless steel screw and it has a little detent to avoid it to fold forward when not needed.
Stainless plunger valve for the cutting oxygen.
The connection nut is smooth, bigger and easier to tighten and loosen.
The handle has longer threads on the stainless portion too
Newer one has a very simple triangular shapeD casting for the head
The lever pivots on a cotter pin, oxygen valve is made out of brass, no detent so the thing flies forward when you leave the lever etc etc
It feels almost like a toy and despite that the older one is still lighter and nicer to held.
And it says HARRIS MADE IN THE USA
new one says made by -The Harris Product Group-
I've seen better looking clones on AliExpress and I've said everything
I wasn't expecting that honestly because we have Italy line torches at work, they are Frover torches essentially made by Harris in Poland, far better than this thing.
I'm sad to say that because I'm a fan of their products but this thing did NOT satisfied my expectations
Last edited:
Melvyn Best
Member
- Messages
- 1,778
- Location
- Cambridge
I have a Liquid Levers hydrolastic pump that could be for sale
Brad93
Member
- Messages
- 19,053
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
Yep I have victor made in USA one of the last lot that got bought into the UK it's a beautiful thing. I keep it for best use when I need to do a decent bit of cutting.
Scrapping and heavy burning I've got a cheap esab
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
- Messages
- 3,650
- Location
- North Kent, UK
That’s exactly the right tool for the job!
Memmeddu
Member
- Messages
- 5,298
- Location
- Italia Sardegna
Those adjustables might be great for plastic fittings in harder to reach places
Haha. fair enough.
In my industry Brawn seems to be more important when it comes to trying to keep the points from falling apart!
Brad93
Member
- Messages
- 19,053
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
For the slotting head?
Memmeddu
Member
- Messages
- 5,298
- Location
- Italia Sardegna
I think so
Tigman
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 3,915
- Location
- Watford UK
Yes mate , pure coincidence I told him I had the head no tools and he came up with them ! Lovely
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
- Messages
- 5,718
- Location
- UK
Two Delrin cogs for my Meddings drills, the smaller of the pair. Ebay seller, just over half the price of Meddings themselves. Just search meddings and Delrin to find them, based in Portsmouth. Nice chap.
I may 3D print the next lot, but I don't envisage needing anymore unless I unleash a numpty on my workshop.
I may 3D print the next lot, but I don't envisage needing anymore unless I unleash a numpty on my workshop.
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,788
- Location
- Kent, UK
You should have asked I have made several of those for people here. I haven't cut any gears since I moved house, been too busy to rig up the hobber (and half the other equipment) but I child of someone was desperate.
I used my Vevor 20" 58cc cheapie chainsaw for the first time yesterday.
Only at low loads and keeping the revs down, I ran a couple of tanks through it cutting Firewood for my daughter.
Plan was to try to get it a bit bedded-in before giving it more beans on the Ash Tree that's got to come down.
It took about 20-pulls for it's very first start.... but once started once it seems there's a technique - couple of pulls with engine switch off to prime it, choke on & a pull or 2 to get it to fire, then checked off, a bit of throttle & away it goes.
It feels a bit smoother and crisper now it's run for a bit, so I'm hopeful I've done the right approach. I had to adjust the chain after the first thankful, but I suspect that's normal as things settle?
I dunno anything much about saws, but apart from a pretty high idle and it seems to like drinking petrol - so far I'm pretty happy with how it run (daughter is happy as she now has a large crate filled with cut logs too)
Might be worth a watch.
Chances are your saw will need tuned.
Main manfacturers like Stihl and Husqvarna tend to tune their saws on the lean side to comply with pollutions regs.
Good for the environment allegedly but bad for your saw.
To start with it's down on power so you'll actually spend longer cutting and use more fuel.
If its running lean it will shorten the life of your piston and barrel.
Once bedded in it will need tuned again but do yourself and the saw a favour and give it a tune up.
The rpm meter is a handy tool but most of my tuning is by ear.
Kram
Member
- Messages
- 7,811
- Location
- Sussex
Does it have a pruge bulb to suck fuel through the carb? The ones without need to be pulled to vacuum the fuel through so can take a bit longer the first start. Every tool I have will pretty much start first or second pull
6 presses on the purge, choke, pull, it should fire briefly and usually die. Throttle to release choke, pull again. Gentle throttle to warm up, start cutting, let it rest occasionally until its up to temp.
Chain will often need adjusting after the first few cuts and then likely good until a sharpen or many tanks of fuel.
Idle can be adjusted easily. Please be sure the chain doesnt run on without throttle.
Larger CC saws can be very thirsty!
Photos required
6 presses on the purge, choke, pull, it should fire briefly and usually die. Throttle to release choke, pull again. Gentle throttle to warm up, start cutting, let it rest occasionally until its up to temp.
Chain will often need adjusting after the first few cuts and then likely good until a sharpen or many tanks of fuel.
Idle can be adjusted easily. Please be sure the chain doesnt run on without throttle.
Larger CC saws can be very thirsty!
Photos required
Great, thanks!
It's running a bit of a blue haze atm. Not sure if that's cos it needs bedding-in, or if I've been a tad generous on the 2T oil (won't do any harm for the first few runs).
I'll have to pull the plug and see how the fuelling is on it
No priming bulb on this saw no, just a choke lever. Hence the couple of pulls to prime with ignition off & choke out, fire/die then push choke in to start seems to work. (Choke is manual as far as I can tell, not auto release).Does it have a pruge bulb to suck fuel through the carb? The ones without need to be pulled to vacuum the fuel through so can take a bit longer the first start. Every tool I have will pretty much start first or second pull
6 presses on the purge, choke, pull, it should fire briefly and usually die. Throttle to release choke, pull again. Gentle throttle to warm up, start cutting, let it rest occasionally until its up to temp.
Chain will often need adjusting after the first few cuts and then likely good until a sharpen or many tanks of fuel.
Idle can be adjusted easily. Please be sure the chain doesnt run on without throttle.
Larger CC saws can be very thirsty!
Photos required
Yes, chain need an early adjust - I'm hoping it's now as you say - ok for a while.
I spent my teens on 2T motorbikes & have some mechanical sense & sympathy (I've seen more than a few people just fire up a Saw & just give it welly from the off - I can't bring myself to do that to an engine!).
Manual with it actually legible & makes reasonable sense - first thing it says (& I checked) was that the chain is stationary at idle, & that the chain brake works (they do).
Online review vids I watched were positive overall before purchase - experienced saw users were complimentary - esp. given the price. A couple noted that the fuel filler would weep if the saw was left standing - mine too, but nothing an O ring didn't sort in 20 seconds.
No pics of my actual saw atm (& it's in my folks shed after use y-day), but (see below) it looks like a saw
