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AKN
Master of Disaster
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Won this ELU belt sander on eBay yesterday went the 70 miles or so to pick it up, the seller apologised saying he thought there was something missing from it he hadn’t noticed before listing it so let me have it for nowt! (Well a shade over 2 gals of DERV)
JMS1972
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Five 250Watt solar panels for £58 each 
They are ex solar farm but are all working great. Hopefully should take some of the sting out of energy price rises. No pics as I was knackered driving from to London and back so they are still in the car ...
They are ex solar farm but are all working great. Hopefully should take some of the sting out of energy price rises. No pics as I was knackered driving from to London and back so they are still in the car ...
Blobber
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I have exactly the same saw, rescued from a skip 30+ years ago when the chippy threw it away after buying a replacement!Made it almost 10 years without a miter saw but I finally bought one.
Cuthy246
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Half the reason I have to clear out the garage of junk every few months is because of thinking like this
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Five 250Watt solar panels for £58 each
They are ex solar farm but are all working great. Hopefully should take some of the sting out of energy price rises. No pics as I was knackered driving from to London and back so they are still in the car ...
Care to share from where? (that ryhmes!
)
AKN
Master of Disaster
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At the time we thought they were the mounts for a mechanism to retract the front roller, but that is a far simpler / more brutal process. The belt centring screw was seized it appears that the insert in the casting had rusted a little but application of WD40 and the dogs soon sorted it, followed by some light machine oil into the front roller bearing oil point. If yours is the same vintage would you happen to have a copy of the original manual?
JMS1972
Member
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This guy on eBay.Care to share from where? (that ryhmes!
Security measure | eBay
He buys in bulk from solar farms. £58 was for panels with missing connectors - easy enough to crimp a new connector on.
Think he's sold out of those at the moment but gets stock in all the time. Perfect ones are £70.
He's got a lock up just off the A111 South of Cockfosters. Fairly easy to get to from the M25.
Edit and here are the panels
He even threw in some cable for free
I have a pair of stands for that saw (Well the yellow variation after Elu was bought by Dewalt) fit in the holes on the side.Made it almost 10 years without a miter saw but I finally bought one.
Postage to finland might be an issue though
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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That free space for the swarf to escape into is indeed some thing to aim for .Went to the party, got laid
OK not full rounds, more like 2/3rds which helped with chip clearance and some steady squirts of WD. Light steady pressure and it made progress pretty quickly.
Got 2 more goes needed on the 2 1/2" cutter for this folly project...
View attachment 343452
If you kiss cut the diameter of the hole cutter then very carefully drill a 1/2 " hole on the inside or outside of the ring depending whether you are cutting a blanking plug or a through hole so it will run on the kissed ring most of the cuttings / swarf will wash into the hole if you use cutting fluid or WD 40 as a wash down liquid giving you a reasonably clean hole .
It's how I put a 50 mm hole though the 10 mm thick welding bench table top after the hole saw trying to skid all over the place due to clogging swarf .( hand held power drill ) .
So when I take the vice off I can mount a router on the underside and use a big 45 degree cutter . These days the cut out plug of steel sits in the hole resting on the sole plate of the router to stop things falling down the hole . I've sometimes used bathroom silicon to totally seal the steel plug in so I didn't loose tiny screws or ball bearings etc down the hole .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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True.. I wanted the machined flange of the rivinut on the inside of the hollow square tube so I could slide a machine grooved square bar inside the hollow tube . Popping it in from the outside fouled the grooved bar .
I think when it was factory made an anvil bar was slipped inside the hollow tube to hold the nut in place whilst it was flared over on the outer threads
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Perhaps make up a bottomed hole in a work table top for it , so it sits level with the rest of your work bench , fill the hole with a block of wood when not in use? I did that for my Italian chop /mitre saw when I was making 18 lattice 6x 3 foot fence topping sections a total of 482 ( IIRC) n mitered cuts out of treated roof batonsMade it almost 10 years without a miter saw but I finally bought one.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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I'm not jealous ..honestI don't need a bag sealer, but the price was very right.
View attachment 343509
@MattF will be pleased to see I'm not wearing safety Crocs.
... 240 v or 110 volts , does the roll cutter work well ? Can you easily get spares such as the heat seal tape / band .
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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240v, the cutter works nicely and I've got no idea about spares, can't find any reference to Dapper online so I guess not. Looking at pictures of other models I think there should be some sort of non stick cover over the heater? I've just got a bare strip of hot metal and the bags stick to it.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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I have many years experience of industrial & domestic heat sealers
The heater wire should have a PTFE non stick heat tape over it , to stop burning through the poly bags , usually the machine can only be used once every 80 seconds or so to prevent the tape coming unstuck through too much heat or you burning out the element .
Put " heat sealer tape & elements " into eBay . They are available in a lot of different sizes .
Weschenfelder sell several types of food bag sealers & spares as well as decent heavy duty embossed bags & rolls of embossed bags if you want it for food sealing . Don't try using normal supermarket thin heat sealable bags unless they are really thick polythene ....... as you all too frequently melt holes in them along the seal line no matter what setting you set the temp control to.
The heater wire should have a PTFE non stick heat tape over it , to stop burning through the poly bags , usually the machine can only be used once every 80 seconds or so to prevent the tape coming unstuck through too much heat or you burning out the element .
Put " heat sealer tape & elements " into eBay . They are available in a lot of different sizes .
Weschenfelder sell several types of food bag sealers & spares as well as decent heavy duty embossed bags & rolls of embossed bags if you want it for food sealing . Don't try using normal supermarket thin heat sealable bags unless they are really thick polythene ....... as you all too frequently melt holes in them along the seal line no matter what setting you set the temp control to.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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Cheers for the info, I was thinking of trying kapton tape. 
I'll measure it and have a look for spares tomorrow.
It hadn't occurred to me to use it for food, I actually looked into vacuum sealers a while ago, I wanted one freezing and marinating but ultimately decided we don't really have the space for more kitchen toys. This one's just a bit on the big side for the kitchen but it could live in the shed with the chest freezer. Any idea how the vacuum works on the sous vide ones, is it something I could retro-fit?
I'll measure it and have a look for spares tomorrow.It hadn't occurred to me to use it for food, I actually looked into vacuum sealers a while ago, I wanted one freezing and marinating but ultimately decided we don't really have the space for more kitchen toys. This one's just a bit on the big side for the kitchen but it could live in the shed with the chest freezer. Any idea how the vacuum works on the sous vide ones, is it something I could retro-fit?
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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Just a thought - if you get a Volvo 12V vacuum brake pump, it might do the job. Designed to give vacuum to the vac reservoir on the cars, it's plenty capable of providing decent pull for hours on end.
Dr.Al
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Some cheap but big diamond sharpening plates (230 mm × 80 mm: that's about 9" × π" for the antediluvian ones among you) for £7.35 each: they're bigger than the DMT-brand (8" × 3") ones and about a tenth of the price. It'll be interesting to see how well they work: the discs I use on my slow speed grinder were cheap and they work very well indeed. The big plates took a while to hunt down as there are lots of 170 mm × 75 mm ones available but I was curious to see if any bigger options existed.
They're only 1 mm thick so will flex a bit if not restrained: my plan is to stick them down to some aluminium flat bar. I've got quite a bit of 10 × 80 mm aluminium flat bar so that should do the trick. Given the price (and the fact I've got plenty of aluminium flat bar), I might order some more as spares and/or alternative grits once I've tried them out.
They're only 1 mm thick so will flex a bit if not restrained: my plan is to stick them down to some aluminium flat bar. I've got quite a bit of 10 × 80 mm aluminium flat bar so that should do the trick. Given the price (and the fact I've got plenty of aluminium flat bar), I might order some more as spares and/or alternative grits once I've tried them out.
