Today I acquired...........

[slim_boy_fat]

Drive wheel shattered,lucky I had one in stock,it’s in daily use,however,this is the second one now.View attachment 329059View attachment 329060

What was it trying to cut, granite?

to buy it a waterproof cover to see if it will protect what is left of the paintwork

I recall reading (on DW?) about someone who had fitted a cover to a classic and found after Winter was over that the cover had been constantly moving in any wind, resulting in a haze of 'spider web' scratching in the paintwork. Took a LOT of machining to bring it back....
Not suggesting yours'll do similar, but...... Perhaps a couple of applications of Collinite would keep it looking good?

 

[Rannsachair]

What was it trying to cut, granite?


I recall reading (on DW?) about someone who had fitted a cover to a classic and found after Winter was over that the cover had been constantly moving in any wind, resulting in a haze of 'spider web' scratching in the paintwork. Took a LOT of machining to bring it back....
Not suggesting yours'll do similar, but...... Perhaps a couple of applications of Collinite would keep it looking good?

My paintwork is a mess, covered in scratches from offroading and peeling lacquer, the instructions with the cover say to wash the car before fitting it and inspect underneath regularly.

It polished up ok and looks good at a distance

 

[Richiew]

A Sherman acdc Tig Can't wait to fire it up, just need some argon first, but wish I didn't have to pay another hobbyweld bottle deposit.

View attachment 329307

I think you're the first person on here with one of those. Would be nice to see a review once you are familiar with it.

 

[Onthespotwelding]

My paintwork is a mess, covered in scratches from offroading and peeling lacquer, the instructions with the cover say to wash the car before fitting it and inspect underneath regularly.

It polished up ok and looks good at a distance
View attachment 329350

It’s a beauty! I’ve always liked them, but I have no real use for one

 

[Rannsachair]

It’s a beauty! I’ve always liked them, but I have no real use for one

I started a thread on why buy one https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/why-on-earth-would-you-buy-a-landrover.113537/

 

[Mick Annick]

What was it trying to cut, granite?


I recall reading (on DW?) about someone who had fitted a cover to a classic and found after Winter was over that the cover had been constantly moving in any wind, resulting in a haze of 'spider web' scratching in the paintwork. Took a LOT of machining to bring it back....
Not suggesting yours'll do similar, but...... Perhaps a couple of applications of Collinite would keep it looking good?

A couple of straps each side to tie to the sliders will help keep the wind out, or a couple of cheap spring clamps

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Arrived here yesterday .... but you can't get anything done these days ...

My direction with turning tools is definitely towards indexable inserts, but from the experienced turners here and elsewhere you also learn that you should always have some HSS material to hand, here for once in Myford-compatible sizes (and a bit of MT2 stuff):

Inscription on one chisel: "ZÄHHART GEGLÜHT" something like "toughhard annealed".


A box of miscellaneous items, left-hand extractors, drills, taps, reamers, .... :

Among them two specialities

- my first own inch taps (3/8"-18G and 3/8"-24G) - at least a start:

- and a die holder that should not really exist: During the first apprenticeship, in my case information electronics, next door the mechanics, if one of their supervisors caught one of the apprentices casually holding the die holder with only one hand, then that could force a set of hot ears on him ...

... nevertheless, this beautiful piece exists:

Does the signet on the holder mean anything to anyone???

Thank you!


Have a nice evening,

Carsten

--

 

[Pete.]

nevertheless, this beautiful piece exists:

View attachment 329427


Does the signet on the holder mean anything to anyone???

Thank you!


Have a nice evening,

Carsten

--

I'd guess at Pratt & Whitney

 

[Pete.]

Today (well, yesterday now) I aquired a sore back, cricked neck, bumped head and itches all over, getting loft insulation into parts of the house that contracted loft insulators cannot reach. This is as far as I could physically get - in the pic I am rolling out the insulation into the last 8 feet of space after the chimney breast using a small broom

 

[Gragson]

Reversing is an ar*se ain't it - been there, my mrs said I looked like fat seal on a beach

 

[droopsnoot]

Yet another TomTom, this time an XL with a broken windscreen mount. But, the screen / digitiser is good and the battery is good (the battery in my "main" one has packed up and won't retain a charge) so I'll update it and fashion some sort of mount and it'll be good for one of the classics.

 

[Memmeddu]

A Sherman acdc Tig Can't wait to fire it up, just need some argon first, but wish I didn't have to pay another hobbyweld bottle deposit.

View attachment 329307

We are waiting for a review Once you have took confidence with

 

[Arc Tourist]

Today (well, yesterday now) I aquired a sore back, cricked neck, bumped head and itches all over, getting loft insulation into parts of the house that contracted loft insulators cannot reach. This is as far as I could physically get - in the pic I am rolling out the insulation into the last 8 feet of space after the chimney breast using a small broom

View attachment 329435

Been there, done that, you have my sympathy.

 

[bricol]

A box of miscellaneous items, left-hand extractors, drills, taps, reamers, .... :View attachment 329417


Carsten

--

Throw the extractors away before you are tempted to use them - if a larger diameter object shears off, then why would drilling a hole in it, screwing in a smaller diameter, hard, brittle object not break rather more easily and jam in there, now making the original job 50x harder . . . ?

 

[25.4_mechanic]

Throw the extractors away before you are tempted to use them - if a larger diameter object shears off, then why would drilling a hole in it, screwing in a smaller diameter, hard, brittle object not break rather more easily and jam in there, now making the original job 50x harder . . . ?

If you look at it the right way, there's something to it:
I've heard the advice "use a left-hand extractor" dozens of times, but I can't actually remember a single successful operation where I was present ...

Until now, however, I had always assumed that the quality of the extractor was too poor ... Now the suspicion could arise that it is a matter of principle ...


A good start to the week to all

Carsten

--

 

[Porkypine]

View attachment 325637

In the 1970's they stopped selling the units as single tools. They made a "Work Shop" on a base.
Mecccon and Mamdod got together to ensure the fixinsg from one would fit another.
Here you can see a Meccano engine driving a workshop.

View attachment 325638

This set up shoews one of my very early engines powereing a set of early 1960's tools. This was before the engines were d e tunned to en-courage the bigger stationary engines to be brought.


View attachment 325639

Ok Now I am just being a show off.




View attachment 325640


Some did nothing but light a light.
The "Genny" is a Meccano Motor designed from the late 1970's early 1980's. It was powered in the motor form from a 4.5 v battery.


More show off time

View attachment 325644


A Rare working Kenneth Wells engine. This was made to allow schools to encourage the making of a steam engine. From parts supplied, or from plans. Or from moulds to cast parts.
If made to the plans, they had about 30 t0 50% more power than a Mamod. But by then Mamod had the markets and their engines could go forward and backwards. The KW engines could not.


This engine, was in a terrible state when I got it.

View attachment 325649

One of the very first "Movable engines, albeit forward only.
But it shows that parts are avaialable and they make a nice restoration project.

View attachment 325650

The boiler looks shocked.

View attachment 325654

Restored, working.
I have changed the whistle to the correct one.
Got a Meths burner for it as well.

Hope you enjoy.

Returning to mamod models briefly, I got my static one running the other day and have now stripped it to give it a good clean up, all the remaining paint is scrap, and has been removed, so wondering what's a good heat resistant paint to use for the base and the firebox that supports the boiler ?
I'm just going to do all painted bits black btw

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Returning to mamod models briefly, I got my static one running the other day and have now stripped it to give it a good clean up, all the remaining paint is scrap, and has been removed, so wondering what's a good heat resistant paint to use for the base and the firebox that supports the boiler ?
I'm just going to do all painted bits black btw

If you not worried about be original and just want HRT paint.

I use Halfords exhaust black paint in the rattle can

 

[DAPPH]

It's getting serious ...

the good thing: I can pick up an Arboga U2508, the Myford ML7 might get company;
the bad thing: the drill-mill is in a narrow basement with a very low ceiling height and a very narrow, steep, angled staircase as the only access.

The machine should be broken down into as many parts as possible, there are only two of us and we are no athletes.

I'm thinking about one of the well known engine jacks - it's the head that worries me the most:

View attachment 329145


My choice would be the familiar textile loops, choking - so tightening itself, end by loop - passed around narrowings.

If I make it as above, the head will be quite front-heavy with the gearbox, so more like this:

View attachment 329147

Question:
- Is the head hanging securely?
- Can I break anything with this solution?
- Do I have to remove all switches, levers, etc. from the head to rule out damage?

Further:

Once we have the head on the ground, we want to secure it upside down on a piece of cardboard cut to size on a hand truck with straps.

- Is there any soup coming out of the head? This is the oil sheet:

View attachment 329148

What do you think?
Any other suggestions?

Thank you very much!

Greetings

Carsten

--

Side it down the stairs in bits lashed onto a purpose made flat bottomed skid / pallet that has ply wood or old kitchen work top or wood covered in a flat thin galvanised sheet ( Perhaps the side off a dead washing machine , dryer or fridge ? ) as the bottom sheet of material so the flat side rides on the stair edges . Use a 4 to 1 or six to one pulley set & 8 mm ropes anchored to the lower part of a doorway or if possible across the top of the stairs to arrest any too fast uncontrolled down ward movement .

Use deep counter sunk holes to stop screw heads caching on the stair edges if you screw the sliding surfaces using them

 

[DAPPH]

I finally bought a new tube of this,
View attachment 329224
It's really good sealant.
The Hobgoblin isn't bad either!

Take great care with the Hobgoblin ....... apply too much & it makes you leak like hell and go all rubbery

 

[Porkypine]

If you not worried about be original and just want HRT paint.

I use Halfords exhaust black paint in the rattle can

That sounds fine, I'm not trying to replicate the original "garish" colours, just a coat of black rather than bare steel that'd rust rapidly.
I was tempted to just "blacken" the steel bits on the gas stove, but I suspect the thin sheet would warp if I tried that !