My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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- 3,583
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- North Lincs
My 350Nm torque wrench is 1/2" drive so I don't think that is correct.
- Thread starter nickk
- Start date
Yes I have a 330Nm 1/2 torque wrench
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,842
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Not with a rattle gun, I hope.Tightened to 200 would likely require a good excess, over that torque, to free it off. Mostly, over 200Nm calls for the 3/4” socket set, but I don’t think mine start until 22mm?
I don't like to use extensions (between socket and wrench) at the top end of the torque range, either - and never use pipe extensions on breaker bars. Getting a bigger breaker bar is the answer to that problem.
Absolutely not. However, buying used sockets you never know what the previous owners have put them through. I think my smallest 3/4 is 1”. I only have the stuff for the 7/8bsw nuts on the tractor!
You have obviously never had to undo any trailer wheel nuts that haven't been moved in 30 years then. I have a 5ft 1" drive breaker bar and sometimes have a 8ft pipe over it.
Thing is the camper has a cosseted life,lives in a shed,only used in summer.
No salt ,no abs metallic whatever,all bolts in perfect condition,visually,checked with a thread pitch gauge,really snug in the hole.
I too wonder about the specific characteristics of a Vw,but my beetle never suffered this trait.
I will degrease and re torque to the correct figure.
To be fair on the Britool and Elora wrenches,they are ‘60/70’s so have done the miles.
No salt ,no abs metallic whatever,all bolts in perfect condition,visually,checked with a thread pitch gauge,really snug in the hole.
I too wonder about the specific characteristics of a Vw,but my beetle never suffered this trait.
I will degrease and re torque to the correct figure.
To be fair on the Britool and Elora wrenches,they are ‘60/70’s so have done the miles.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,491
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
I was brave ( or stupid ) and tried it ..got a spreader bar for horse drawn implements .. Being even brave I put in " jointed nut spinner bar " & got a sort of swingle .If you google searched a "swingle" it would probably throw up a sexual deviant, breaker bar would get you what you want
Bob
I did indeed put in breaker bar .. Yep I agree that silly swivel pin or yoke will break or bend out any time it gets a decent load on it
zzr1200
Working at 650 ft on open steel work.
- Messages
- 6,334
- Location
- Glapwell, Chesterfield, Derbyshire, UK
Buy new wheel nuts/studs, a torque wrench (correct spec range) and then drill the stud releasing the wheel, replace the wheel studs, refit wheel with new nuts at the correct torque setting , not tyre fitters F/T.....
God mode restorations
Member
- Messages
- 8,156
- Location
- uk colchester
Pussies. This is what ya need. 1 inch drive impact stuff. A big compressor and a big air gun. Sorts anything out.
Bobupndown
What could possibly go wrong?
- Messages
- 1,938
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- Northern Ireland
Which also sounds like a deviant device on certain websites
Bobupndown
What could possibly go wrong?
- Messages
- 1,938
- Location
- Northern Ireland
I get the issues with working on other people's cars trying to get wheels off for servicing, tyre replacement etc but all the cars in our household are in the main maintained by me and wheels will be off several times per year, refitted (with Satan's copper grease) and torqued. Never have any issues at all.
James1979
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- 8,434
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- Orkney
That’ll be sore in the morning
cardiffrob
Member
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- 1,635
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- Wales, Llantwit Major.
Big difference between torque required for a dry nut and for one soaked in lube. Big issue in the Aero industry.
jerrytug
Member
- Messages
- 1,837
- Location
- Isle of Wight
I understand not using lube.
On the other hand, if the threads are rough,or tight, or a bit damaged, a lot of the torque figure which you set on your torque wrench will be overcoming friction on the threads, not clamping the wheel on the hub.
A torque wrench, I believe, will only work properly if you can easily screw the stud or nut home with fingers only. Otherwise the fastener will be under-torqued.
premmington
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- 6,203
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- Norfolk
Moose McAlpine
Member
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- 1,576
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- Norf Lund'n
It keeps manufacturers busy making new 1/2" breaker bars
I gave up with ½" breaker bars years ago. I only broke one, but the "ping" as a bolt comes loose is no good for your fingers.
I use ¾" breaker bars with adapters if necessary, but my ¾" sockets go down to 17mm so often down need adapter. No risk of breaking the joint, no flex or ping. Adapters are cheap, easily replaceable if needed.
Most-used ¾" and 1" bars. Keep a couple 36" and 40" breaker bars and scaffold poles about too.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,491
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
You have given the solution in your post , a deformed or worn thread is the case for changing both the stud and the correct matching wheel nut .
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
- Messages
- 7,771
- Location
- Cumbria
who on earth changes a stud unless its actually knackered though?
There are two reasons why wheel studs are damaged in the first place - 1. too much friction or corrosion causing galling; and 2. rough-ass tightening with too many ugga duggas.
This is why I always use copperease and torque to the manufacturers minimum torque. Will never damage anything, as that extra 20% fastener tension is well within the safety margin by design.
We've had this argument before several times on here, and each time there are people adamantly opposed to lubing wheel bolts - I understand the theories and there are pros and cons both ways. Ultimately I go with lube.
jerrytug
Member
- Messages
- 1,837
- Location
- Isle of Wight
How do you know that Copper grease results in exactly 20% extra fastener tension? Surely that is just a wild guess?who on earth changes a stud unless its actually knackered though?
There are two reasons why wheel studs are damaged in the first place - 1. too much friction or corrosion causing galling; and 2. rough-ass tightening with too many ugga duggas.
This is why I always use copperease and torque to the manufacturers minimum torque. Will never damage anything, as that extra 20% fastener tension is well within the safety margin by design.
We've had this argument before several times on here, and each time there are people adamantly opposed to lubing wheel bolts - I understand the theories and there are pros and cons both ways. Ultimately I go with lube.
mtt.tr
Member
- Messages
- 8,462
- Location
- Essex/Suffolk border
who on earth changes a stud unless its actually knackered though?
There are two reasons why wheel studs are damaged in the first place - 1. too much friction or corrosion causing galling; and 2. rough-ass tightening with too many ugga duggas.
This is why I always use copperease and torque to the manufacturers minimum torque. Will never damage anything, as that extra 20% fastener tension is well within the safety margin by design.
We've had this argument before several times on here, and each time there are people adamantly opposed to lubing wheel bolts - I understand the theories and there are pros and cons both ways. Ultimately I go with lube
Just knowing many many cars drive around with mega tight nuts and the wheels don't fall off gives me confidence that a little lube is no issue
