Stuff your 3D printer has made today...

[My Old Landy]

I just re read and I see it is indeed his lather. But why can't he use that then?? Lol

Because of my general health problems. I can't stand for more than a few minutes and some days not at all. My hands no longer have the articulation or grip so things like lathe work are difficult. I want to go CNC as it is easier for me.

 

[ukracer]

Because of my general health problems. I can't stand for more than a few minutes and some days not at all. My hands no longer have the articulation or grip so things like lathe work are difficult. I want to go CNC as it is easier for me.

I understand now mate. Sorry I had missed your current health situation.

Good luck with the CNC I have had one (CNC router) for 24 months and its not cut in anger yet.

 

[daedalusminos]

And the main circuit board fits very well...

Just added some finishing touches...

 

[knighty]

my prusa mk3s melted the hot end holder... not sure how that happened, guessing it overheated

ordered new bits from prusa directly... noticed they have a mk4 now... so ordered one

took weeks to turn up but it arrived last week, bought the assembled one instead of the kit (oddly it was shorter delivery time)

it's..... really really good

worked perfectly straight out of the box and it's fast, really fast

I didn't think to recorded it for here, but I was printing a couple of bits for a mate and sent him some whatsapp videos

flat thing is a panel fil in / vent / fan mount thing for his coms cabinet where his ccev server goes, long thin thing is a shipping container air vent



it's on 'speed' not 'quality' but the quality is better then I'm used to, not tried it on quality setting yet

all in ABS - the black ABS was a different brant I tired a while back and couldn't get it to stick to the bed with the mk3

guess I need to tweek some temps to get the normal nice glossy surface on the bed, a wipe over with acetone will do for me

 

[m_c]

all in ABS - the black ABS was a different brant I tired a while back and couldn't get it to stick to the bed with the mk3

guess I need to tweek some temps to get the normal nice glossy surface on the bed, a wipe over with acetone will do for me

White ABS isn't as good as other colours. I can't remember the details, but Voron don't allow white as a colour option for their PIF (Print It Forward) scheme, as the compound that makes it white means it's a lot harder to get consistently strong prints.

 

[m_c]

As part of my ongoing workshop project finishing/tidying, I printed the first ABS part to complete my Voron.

This is just a little cover, but I'm happy with the quality, so just another couple days worth of prints to get everything else completed now :-/

 

[knighty]

White ABS isn't as good as other colours. I can't remember the details, but Voron don't allow white as a colour option for their PIF (Print It Forward) scheme, as the compound that makes it white means it's a lot harder to get consistently strong prints.

does it have chalk in it or something like that?

I know white silicone does, which means it's not as good as the other colours


I've done loads of CCTV camera holders with white ABS and they're plenty strong... don't think there's any difference in them to the other colours I did using up end of rolls

 

[skotl]

Today I made (well, technically, "today I finally finished after five weeks of toil...")... a surface mount solder hot plate!

Fusion 360 with a mighty 15 components:

An ESP8266 (actually a wemos d1 mini), thermistor, 250C hotplate, couple of fans, buck converter, I2C display, a relay and several hundred lines of C++ code:

Exposed guts:

And the end result!

I used ABS for the hot box and then separated the controller (made of PLA) by some standoffs and conduit. Totally over the top as it turns out, as the innards of the hotbox don't get above 30C - decent learning experience though.

The lid on the control box warped when I took it off the printer bed too soon I should really re-print it but I'm sick of the sight of it now!


Things I learned:

1. Design the entire box on paper first, don't make it up as you go along (which ended up with me scratching my head on where I was going to put mounting sockets)
2. M3 rivnuts are the dog's danglies! So much more secure than just bolting bits of plastic together directly
3. Design-in an extra 1 or 2 or centimetres in every direction - that would have made wiring it up sooooo much easier...

 

[ajlelectronics]

A Facebook group run by RepRapper 3D Printing posted this today...
Facebook page.

 

[skotl]

A Facebook group run by RepRapper 3D Printing posted this today...
Facebook page.

View attachment 425183

Wow! Was it constructed from lots of coloured bits or was the whole thing printed in a oner? My printer can apparently take a multi-spool (aka multi-colour) config but I don't know whether it can do that!

Edit: oh... interesting... my printer is an AnkerMake M5, which is actually what the parrot is sitting on in the picture...

 

[ajlelectronics]

Wow! Was it constructed from lots of coloured bits or was the whole thing printed in a oner? My printer can apparently take a multi-spool (aka multi-colour) config but I don't know whether it can do that!

Edit: oh... interesting... my printer is an AnkerMake M5, which is actually what the parrot is sitting on in the picture...

 

[skotl]

Today I made (well, technically, "today I finally finished after five weeks of toil...")... a surface mount solder hot plate!

Fusion 360 with a mighty 15 components:

View attachment 425178



An ESP8266 (actually a wemos d1 mini), thermistor, 250C hotplate, couple of fans, buck converter, I2C display, a relay and several hundred lines of C++ code:

View attachment 425179



Exposed guts:

View attachment 425180


And the end result!


View attachment 425181



I used ABS for the hot box and then separated the controller (made of PLA) by some standoffs and conduit. Totally over the top as it turns out, as the innards of the hotbox don't get above 30C - decent learning experience though.

The lid on the control box warped when I took it off the printer bed too soon I should really re-print it but I'm sick of the sight of it now!


Things I learned:

1. Design the entire box on paper first, don't make it up as you go along (which ended up with me scratching my head on where I was going to put mounting sockets)
2. M3 rivnuts are the dog's danglies! So much more secure than just bolting bits of plastic together directly
3. Design-in an extra 1 or 2 or centimetres in every direction - that would have made wiring it up sooooo much easier...

OK, this isn't 3D printing, but it is the product of the solder plate that I 3D printed!

My first ever (successful - the first two components were a mess) soldered surface-mount component:

This is it in real-life, with a standard-issue finger for size comparison:

Pretty amazed that this worked

 

[m_c]

Pfft 0603.
I made the mistake of designing something with an 0402 component once.
I now do a sanity check when selecting components, although that PCB did work, however it's not experience I want to repeat without a solder stencil, or optical enlargement.

I don't mind SMD assembly, however what annoys me is it costs me a fortune in solder paste. I do so infrequently that it pretty much costs me a new syringe of paste for every PCB :/

 

[m_c]

As I've got a few big prints needing done, I've been working on getting the workshop printers fully functional, along with remote monitoring.
Needed some lights and a camera mount for the Ender, so quick search of Thingiverse found a suitable cam mount, but lights were a bit more problematic.
Came across one setup that had a LED strip mounted to a curved holder, so copied that idea and modified it to fit the mount I wanted to use.
First iteration was a bit short, and would have sat behind the camera, so remodelled a bit taller/longer, and we have this -



Not the tidiest of wiring, but only had some fairly inflexible two core, so stripped the cores out so it's not quite so inflexible, added a two pin connector, and connected it to the RPi headers.
Just need to print the camera focus mod now, as the camera sits too near the print area for it to focus-

That isn't just the lights from the mount, as I've got the remainder of the LED strip draped across both printers, as the Voron still needs dedicated lights added.
However I can now sit in the warmth of the house and keep an eye on the printers via OctoPrint.

 

[m_c]

I think this is what you call making full use of the filament


I've been using up ends of reels to make storage containers to tame my fastener collection, and I fully expected this reel to run out as I had selected the wrong file (only meant to print a single item, but selected the double).
Anyway, turns out the filament didn't run out, so I now have 4 of iteration 6 of my storage containers.

 

[m_c]

Camera has now been remounted on to the top. I wasn't entirely happy with the low side view, as it means you can't really see the top of prints.

 

[fizzy]

Just tried printing my first gear. A 35T for an old Myford/Drummond.
Used PETG. Turned out fine. Wonder how long it will last though?
Printed on an Elegoo 3d max.

 

[m_c]

Provided it's printed well enough, which going by the surface it has, you'll probably be surprised by just how durable it will be in normal service.

 

[fizzy]

Provided it's printed well enough, which going by the surface it has, you'll probably be surprised by just how durable it will be in normal service.

For a mate of mine. Got loads more to do as well. Fits pretty nicely.

 

[ukracer]

For a mate of mine. Got loads more to do as well. Fits pretty nicely.
View attachment 425960

How did you get the pitch etc?
I tried to print one for my Bridgeport power feed.
I used ABS Pro and it printed out awesome.
Sadly it was the wrong amount of teeth and I did not have a clue how to adjust it.