so worth the money then?
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Onoff
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I'll ask him when I see him but suffice to say he's not gone back to the original.
A couple I have purchased come with extra nozzles. I have not tried those yet anyway.
I got back home and just used the same PetG but not through the AMS. Just pushed it in ., heated the hotend and pressed the extrude a few times.
Working a treat. actually its printing a hose connector @Onoff put me onto.. SO.............. I do think its the balance between PetG temps and PLA temps.
I am also investigating the possibility (I see another guy in bambu studio facebook group asking) of only
This is my model. It does not need the lower supports just the top pf the window and the bottom of the half circles.
this is his question. so I hope to get some suggestions
Onoff
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See my post 279:
My lad changed the stock 0.4mm nozzle on the X1C Bambu to a "Hardended Steel vs E3D 0.4mm High Flow ObXidian" (one of his Chrimbo pressies):
Did a couple of "torture" test prints. They go from 15 mm³/s to 35 mm³/s. New nozzle on the left, stock one on the right:
Printed in Bambu Lab PLA Basic Green.
It really puts some volume down and smoothly too!
A cut away of the new nozzle shows how the filament gets "pooled" then extruded through 2 (maybe 3?) channels to massively up the flow rate by something like 60%.
Did a couple of "torture" test prints. They go from 15 mm³/s to 35 mm³/s. New nozzle on the left, stock one on the right:
Printed in Bambu Lab PLA Basic Green.
It really puts some volume down and smoothly too!
A cut away of the new nozzle shows how the filament gets "pooled" then extruded through 2 (maybe 3?) channels to massively up the flow rate by something like 60%.
You seen the price of them now? But they still seem to have no stock. lolSee my post 279:
My lad changed the stock 0.4mm nozzle on the X1C Bambu to a "Hardended Steel vs E3D 0.4mm High Flow ObXidian" (one of his Chrimbo pressies):
Did a couple of "torture" test prints. They go from 15 mm³/s to 35 mm³/s. New nozzle on the left, stock one on the right:
Printed in Bambu Lab PLA Basic Green.
It really puts some volume down and smoothly too!
A cut away of the new nozzle shows how the filament gets "pooled" then extruded through 2 (maybe 3?) channels to massively up the flow rate by something like 60%.
Been having a problem with small holes in the top layer, specifically on parts with lot's of details and lot's of direction changes of the nozzle, anyone have a solution?
Printer is a PrusaXL with a 0,6mm nozzle and the cheapest PLA i could find :-), part in the picture is 10 by 30 mm for scale.
Printer is a PrusaXL with a 0,6mm nozzle and the cheapest PLA i could find :-), part in the picture is 10 by 30 mm for scale.
Dozzer
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looks like the 0.6mm nozzle is to big for the size of part your trying to print?
the overlap/elephants foot settings may want changing,
Would look at a 0.4 or even a 0.2mm nozzle for very small parts.
daedalusminos
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Could you expand a little more or point to a video that shows what you mean with check your result with the slicer?
have you changed the infill setting? looks weird to me
plus, what % infill are you using?
as above, also looks like you’re not extruding enough
in prusa slicer go to filaments at the top, you can change the "extrusion multiplier"
maybe the cheap filament isn't quick as thick as it's supposed to be, so you're getting less plastic through per m than you should
daedalusminos
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Onoff
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@ukracer my lad's musings. He's just off shift and about to crash so just jotted this down as it came to him:
• I've done PETG model with PLA interface and PLA model with PETG interface many times. Works with both a stock 0.4mm nozzle and an after market nozzle. Also mixed multiple brands with no issue.
• You said the filament sometimes failed to retract when changing materials which seems odd and I would expect an error message. Check that the tool head filament cutting blade isn't dull. Check the filament isn't brittle to the point where you can snap it by hand as it could be breaking inside the feed tube. If it does seem brittle this can be solved by drying the filament.
• Regarding supports being in the wrong place. In Bambu Studio you can use the support painting tool to specify where to put supports.
• When printing PLA make sure you keep the door or lid of the printer open to avoid high air temperature and heat creep. The lower the air temperature the better when it comes to PLA. Also make sure the tool head cooling fan is working to prevent heat creep. This is separate from the part cooling fan.
• If filament is getting clogged/jammed make sure they isn't any debris on the filament that is getting pulled into the feed. Perhaps try a 'cold pull' to clean your nozzle.
• Make sure you have enough flushing volume between filament changes to clear the old filament. I normally use around 400mm^3 for multi-material assuming a prime tower is also being used.
• Interface settings. Select 'Bambu Support For PLA/PETG' as your second filament and click yes on the dialouge box to modify support settings. Then change the second filament back to your actual filament. This will ensure no air gap between the layers which is better when using dissimilar supports.
• You could try using a dedicated support filament. Bambu sells some on their website but for me personally PETG/PLA actually works better than the dedicated stuff and its cheaper too.
• The 'glass (something)' you talked about is Glass Transition Temperature. It is the temperature where a filament starts to soften.
If he wants more details on something ask me. i find it crazy he is having so many jam issues on a bambu printer. also if he wants to send me the model or a .3mf save of his slicing setup i can have a look.
• I've done PETG model with PLA interface and PLA model with PETG interface many times. Works with both a stock 0.4mm nozzle and an after market nozzle. Also mixed multiple brands with no issue.
• You said the filament sometimes failed to retract when changing materials which seems odd and I would expect an error message. Check that the tool head filament cutting blade isn't dull. Check the filament isn't brittle to the point where you can snap it by hand as it could be breaking inside the feed tube. If it does seem brittle this can be solved by drying the filament.
• Regarding supports being in the wrong place. In Bambu Studio you can use the support painting tool to specify where to put supports.
• When printing PLA make sure you keep the door or lid of the printer open to avoid high air temperature and heat creep. The lower the air temperature the better when it comes to PLA. Also make sure the tool head cooling fan is working to prevent heat creep. This is separate from the part cooling fan.
• If filament is getting clogged/jammed make sure they isn't any debris on the filament that is getting pulled into the feed. Perhaps try a 'cold pull' to clean your nozzle.
• Make sure you have enough flushing volume between filament changes to clear the old filament. I normally use around 400mm^3 for multi-material assuming a prime tower is also being used.
• Interface settings. Select 'Bambu Support For PLA/PETG' as your second filament and click yes on the dialouge box to modify support settings. Then change the second filament back to your actual filament. This will ensure no air gap between the layers which is better when using dissimilar supports.
• You could try using a dedicated support filament. Bambu sells some on their website but for me personally PETG/PLA actually works better than the dedicated stuff and its cheaper too.
• The 'glass (something)' you talked about is Glass Transition Temperature. It is the temperature where a filament starts to soften.
If he wants more details on something ask me. i find it crazy he is having so many jam issues on a bambu printer. also if he wants to send me the model or a .3mf save of his slicing setup i can have a look.
