addjunkie
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- Northumberland. Reet oot in the sticks
That looks a big chuck for the machine. Id be wary of running it at high speed. My machine is dapable of 2000 rpm. But warning label says max 1400 for the big 4 jaw
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Tupers
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- 985
You get a bit of distortion and shrinking no matter what you do it’s just part of the process. This will need some planishing but it’s not too bad.
I made a pair of hammer forms last year so I can make my own.
Yeah is quite big , the 3 jaw I have is one inch smaller but weighs about the same. (8 inch 3 jaw) , spindle nose is fairly chunky at 2" 1/8, I did have that unscrew once when I had the vfd set to slow down to quickly , that was funny , how I laughed
Lathe tops out at 500 rpm , helps keep me safe
, I started doing a small part today , drill and boring each end of a link for press fit on some bearings , parts only 4" long but the off center nature made even the 380 rpm speed a bit on the wobbly side vibration wise , I think I will put some threaded holes in for attached spacer and also counter weights.Stu
JOEPRO
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- UK
Very nice work! Do you use galv or zinc coated repair steel?
(Don't go too crazy with the grinding IMO it looks nice but thins the metal too)
Tupers
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- 985
No I use uncoated mild steel.
Don’t worry about the swirl marks they’re only from scotchbrite discs. You’d melt the backing pad before you went through the steel.
Dr.Al
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- Gloucestershire, UK
Today I declared finished a project that I've been working on since January: a travel tool chest & workbench.
The primary reason I did this project was to practice hand tool woodwork without having to worry too much about aesthetics (which are not my forte). Less significantly, I also wanted the ability to take a tool kit on holiday and be able to make small boxes and such-like. Since Carolyn has had M.E., she often needs to spend a reasonable amount of time resting and I'd go spare if I just had to sit around reading all day, so having a little project kit with me helps keep me sane.
All the woodwork (with the exception of a few "resawing" cuts on a bandsaw) was done with hand tools. All of the metal bits were also made by me, but not with hand tools
Anyway, this is the chest closed...
... and opened (the front doubles as a shooting board):
Rear view with a leather-jawed vice (which can also be turned round and used as a stop, or removed completely to allow clamping to the uprights on the back):
More photos and details in this thread: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/travel-tool-chest-workbench.133788/
The primary reason I did this project was to practice hand tool woodwork without having to worry too much about aesthetics (which are not my forte). Less significantly, I also wanted the ability to take a tool kit on holiday and be able to make small boxes and such-like. Since Carolyn has had M.E., she often needs to spend a reasonable amount of time resting and I'd go spare if I just had to sit around reading all day, so having a little project kit with me helps keep me sane.
All the woodwork (with the exception of a few "resawing" cuts on a bandsaw) was done with hand tools. All of the metal bits were also made by me, but not with hand tools
Anyway, this is the chest closed...
... and opened (the front doubles as a shooting board):
Rear view with a leather-jawed vice (which can also be turned round and used as a stop, or removed completely to allow clamping to the uprights on the back):
More photos and details in this thread: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/travel-tool-chest-workbench.133788/
Last edited:
Rannsachair
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Made an M8 to M6 stud, had two goes, one from a cap screw and one from bar.
Not done thread cutting on the lather for a while, or used the collet chuck:
Not done thread cutting on the lather for a while, or used the collet chuck:
Memmeddu
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- Italia Sardegna
Gasless welded some patches on my brother's van today.
I've used something like 35 to 50A and 0.8 E71T-GS wire and actually liked how it works , it's less the 1mm thick for sure but I've been able to make continuous weld beads .
I've didn't brushed the flux of because of time I've had at my disposal but I felt the welder working good and my technic surely can improve a lot because it's actually my first time welding car body panels, and using gasless wire on something that actually has to stay together, the other day was actually my first time ever using gasless wire and I've run just few test beads .
I'm impressed with the welder.
I still have to try it running of my power generator.
Now the dark side of my week...
On Monday my car got boiling while coming back home from work ,7 minutes temperature rised up over the normal operating temperature.
So contacted the mechanic for taking it to him on Saturday.
So I'm actually using another car .
Anyway I did replace the thermostat myself as first suspect cause of the malfunction.
Engine was bone dry .
So I've discovered that the thermostat has not been replaced as well as an o ring on the ignition coil pack and the valve cover gasket which should have been replaced when the mechanic repair the head gasket .
So my head start running and went upset .
Decided to do myself any mechanical jobs on my cars .
So this morning I've proceeded to connect the hoses back in position and replaced the o ring on the ignition.
So start filling the coolant system, after 3 litres I've noticed the coolant flowing out from behind the flywheel.
This B*#@£&* didn't replace the fusion caps .
And I've paid for get them replaced.
This means essentially a clutch job .
I've already done one myself , I've learned a lot while doing it and I've already thought a quicker and easier way to do it this time.
So I've already took my tool cart from upstairs to downstairs and I have to start doing it .
First I'll remove all the intake manifold (I have new gaskets too) .
Then once done I can easily access the starter motor from the engine bay (last time from underneath the car)
Then I have to make an engine mount which works on the engine compartment frame ,to lift the engine otherwise it will drop when I removed the gearbox mounts .
Obviously I'll put something underneath the engine just in case.
Then I can remove the entire left wheel hub and CV joint by removing the steering tie rod ,the strut an the ball joint on the suspension .
Done that I can disassemble the gearbox and remove it from the car
Then clutch and flywheel .
So I can finally access those damned fusion caps .
Wish me good luck because I have to work on a side of the road after the 6PM at least till the 9PM starting tomorrow till whenever I get the job done.
Thanks to God Friday is holiday
Sorry for the rant
Blobber
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- lincolnshire
Thats posh, whats the stainless guttering going on?
DennisCA
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- Finland
Not completed, still lacking two panel meters (amps & voltage) but functional. I turned a new dial from wood, turned out looking like a hat... What is it? A 4A variac for 0 - 230V based on an old transformer core from the DDR.
What's it for? For running my US sourced christmas lighting:
What's it for? For running my US sourced christmas lighting:
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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- Cumbria
A canning line in Mexico i think. Not really sure
Blue Chips
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Just made a quick and simple drill extension, consisting of a 36"x1/2" ID chrome-moly steel tube with a 5"x1/2-20 bolt (with the head cut off) pressed in one end, a 5"x1/2" rod pressed in the other end, and a removeable keyless chuck screwed onto the end.
I knurled the stud and rod for an extra-tight fit before pressing them into the tube with permanent Loctite 271. No welding today. Should be a handy tool for dealing with retrofit home wiring, plumbing, etc. Having an easily removeable chuck will allow me to insert the extension in some tight places without the chuck, and then install the chuck in place. I've run into some situations like that inside of wall cavities. Making sure the lock nut is always tight is important in case I need to reverse the drill without having the chuck come off, although I suppose I can drill a hole in the end of the bolt and tap it for a security screw that goes inside the chuck, but I probably won't, since that would make it more difficult to assemble through a hole into a wall cavity.
I knurled the stud and rod for an extra-tight fit before pressing them into the tube with permanent Loctite 271. No welding today. Should be a handy tool for dealing with retrofit home wiring, plumbing, etc. Having an easily removeable chuck will allow me to insert the extension in some tight places without the chuck, and then install the chuck in place. I've run into some situations like that inside of wall cavities. Making sure the lock nut is always tight is important in case I need to reverse the drill without having the chuck come off, although I suppose I can drill a hole in the end of the bolt and tap it for a security screw that goes inside the chuck, but I probably won't, since that would make it more difficult to assemble through a hole into a wall cavity.
Brad93
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- Essex, United Kingdom
May have a job for you
Moose McAlpine
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- Norf Lund'n
Nothing very interesting, a modified E24 Torx socket for Audi V6 cam phaser bolts.
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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- 7,804
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- Cumbria
And here i was thinking this would be a great job for you
Back on legs tonight. Got a relatively small batch to do before Christmas and then hopefully relax for a month. That, or 600 brackets come in
badabec
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