- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Dieselman 63
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Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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About six years ago my aunt brought me a broken Kenwood Chef and a little bag of components to solder in. I took it apart, couldn't find where the parts went then couldn't get it back together so I chucked it in a crate to deal with later...
A capacitor had broke off the speed control board and a brush in the motor had snapped. I also cleaned all the mould out.
It's a bit choppy at low speeds, like it keeps cutting out. Not sure if that's down to the damaged brush not being worn in properly or the speed controller is faulty. The lugs that the bowl locks into have snapped off too so it might have been a huge waste of time.
A capacitor had broke off the speed control board and a brush in the motor had snapped. I also cleaned all the mould out.
It's a bit choppy at low speeds, like it keeps cutting out. Not sure if that's down to the damaged brush not being worn in properly or the speed controller is faulty. The lugs that the bowl locks into have snapped off too so it might have been a huge waste of time.
slim_boy_fat
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What finish are you going to put on it ? If that's mild steel, won't it surface rust? [at 6mm it'll take a good while to rust through
]
Dieselman 63
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What finish are you going to put on it ? If that's mild steel, won't it surface rust? [at 6mm it'll take a good while to rust through
Yeah, it’ll rust but as you say we might get a decade out of it before it does!
What sort of milling machine do you have, must be computer controlled I take it?
I have no idea how you would cut threads on a manual one, although I haven't even attempted to cut threads on my mini lathe yet, changing the cogs and disengaging the lever at the right time etc make me nervous.
Must get around to trying it one day.selectedgrub
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The_Yellow_Ardvark
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The other week I got myself a few old Hand cranked Pillar drills.
Here is the smallest.
The chick was the wrong one, but it yielded parts for the bigger unit.
It did move, but you could feel the roughness from the rust. The wooden handle was split. So rough by the time you sanded it smooth there would be nothing left.
Stage one, soaking it in my home made penetrating fluid.
Stage 2, boiling it in caustic soda.
Stage 3, heating it in citric acid.
Stage 4 and 5 pressure washing and using a hot air gun drying.
It came apart very easily and with out a fight.
A tickle with wire brushes and the metal cleaned up a treat.
Paint was rattle can.
The crank handle pin has lost 30% of its thickness. So had to be replaced.
I used a 1/4UNC bolt and a new nylock to hold it in place.
The handle was turned down from a ash file handle.
Rebuilt.
The chuck will be replaced when I find a suitable replacement, the hunt is on.
Heath Robinson cleaning tank.
Here is the smallest.
The chick was the wrong one, but it yielded parts for the bigger unit.
It did move, but you could feel the roughness from the rust. The wooden handle was split. So rough by the time you sanded it smooth there would be nothing left.
Stage one, soaking it in my home made penetrating fluid.
Stage 2, boiling it in caustic soda.
Stage 3, heating it in citric acid.
Stage 4 and 5 pressure washing and using a hot air gun drying.
It came apart very easily and with out a fight.
A tickle with wire brushes and the metal cleaned up a treat.
Paint was rattle can.
The crank handle pin has lost 30% of its thickness. So had to be replaced.
I used a 1/4UNC bolt and a new nylock to hold it in place.
The handle was turned down from a ash file handle.
Rebuilt.
The chuck will be replaced when I find a suitable replacement, the hunt is on.
Heath Robinson cleaning tank.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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The bigger unit.
Had been outside for over 20 years and it showed.
Nothing moved, the wooden handle had split from the expansion of rust on the pin.
Applying heat from a Oxy Propane set up or a Mapp Gas set up did not help. The castings seam want to keep the heat local and start to melt.
I did not want to make up a tank to de-rust the drill, so a plan was hatched.
Using a decent hot ir gun I managed to get enough heat in the castings and managed to force oil into the parts. When it was hot enough a mix of oil water, oil and crud literally flowed out.
After over 90minutes the drill was working and all parts were running, all be it rough.
Through the paint stripping and de-rusting tanks had it to a point were painting was next stage.
Where the gas flame had damaged the castings it was tin solder filled and given a coat of filler primmer.
The chuck was assembled from parts from the smaller drill and the original chuck.
Bit of highlighting with enamel paint.
Had been outside for over 20 years and it showed.
Nothing moved, the wooden handle had split from the expansion of rust on the pin.
Applying heat from a Oxy Propane set up or a Mapp Gas set up did not help. The castings seam want to keep the heat local and start to melt.
I did not want to make up a tank to de-rust the drill, so a plan was hatched.
Using a decent hot ir gun I managed to get enough heat in the castings and managed to force oil into the parts. When it was hot enough a mix of oil water, oil and crud literally flowed out.
After over 90minutes the drill was working and all parts were running, all be it rough.
Through the paint stripping and de-rusting tanks had it to a point were painting was next stage.
Where the gas flame had damaged the castings it was tin solder filled and given a coat of filler primmer.
The chuck was assembled from parts from the smaller drill and the original chuck.
Bit of highlighting with enamel paint.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Part 2.
Assembled.
New bearings installed into the head, replacement handle as well.
The ratchet gear spring was re-used, after heating and tempering.
Only 1 more job to do.
Find a pattern to make a new "auto adjusting lever.
It will wait.
Assembled.
New bearings installed into the head, replacement handle as well.
The ratchet gear spring was re-used, after heating and tempering.
Only 1 more job to do.
Find a pattern to make a new "auto adjusting lever.
It will wait.
stuvy
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@The_Yellow_Ardvark top work mate they look great
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Thank you very much.
slim_boy_fat
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@The_Yellow_Ardvark Those have come up very nicely 
, what to be their fate?
I wondered how some of your stuff appeared to defy gravity, then realised that some pics needed orientating...
, what to be their fate?I wondered how some of your stuff appeared to defy gravity, then realised that some pics needed orientating...
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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When I say "forced oil in" in the above restorations.
This is what I meant.
An example of a seized locking screw. In this case holding the base to the pillar.
Well and truly seized.
1. Concentrate on removing the screw/bolt.
Warm the area and being careful tighten the bolt a bit, then loosen. Lots of oil and patient and it will work loose.
Heat on the casting and pipe freezer spray also helps.
2. Clean external and internal threads. Wrap PTFE tape on the screw/bolt.
Fill the hole 3/4 full of oil and refit the bolt until it buts pressure on the oil. You will feel it.
3. Apply heat to the casting, as it warms you may see oil seeping.
As it does apply gentle pressure to the screw/bolt.
4. Soon you will see oil seeping from the part. Tap gently with a hide hammer. In all directions.
Be gentle, you want the small movements to move the oil round.
It will come off.
The heat will expand the joint and the oil allowing the oil to move. The screw will put pressure on the oil and encourage it to move.
Or pack it full of grease, tighten screw and go and have a week off.
This is what I meant.
An example of a seized locking screw. In this case holding the base to the pillar.
Well and truly seized.
1. Concentrate on removing the screw/bolt.
Warm the area and being careful tighten the bolt a bit, then loosen. Lots of oil and patient and it will work loose.
Heat on the casting and pipe freezer spray also helps.
2. Clean external and internal threads. Wrap PTFE tape on the screw/bolt.
Fill the hole 3/4 full of oil and refit the bolt until it buts pressure on the oil. You will feel it.
3. Apply heat to the casting, as it warms you may see oil seeping.
As it does apply gentle pressure to the screw/bolt.
4. Soon you will see oil seeping from the part. Tap gently with a hide hammer. In all directions.
Be gentle, you want the small movements to move the oil round.
It will come off.
The heat will expand the joint and the oil allowing the oil to move. The screw will put pressure on the oil and encourage it to move.
Or pack it full of grease, tighten screw and go and have a week off.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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I found a big bit of brass for some vice jaws, then realised brass really isn't ideal so I soldered a sheet of copper to the face of it.
The one I milled flat is on the moving jaw so you can't see it peeled up, I did the other in the 4 jaw on the lathe, I really don't have enough tooling to use the mill yet.
The one I milled flat is on the moving jaw so you can't see it peeled up, I did the other in the 4 jaw on the lathe, I really don't have enough tooling to use the mill yet.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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SPACE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
mpats
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Careful, you'll encourage more stuff to appear!
selectedgrub
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Mocked up to photograph outside while we had a bit of sun.
mrsbruce
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Please, Oh Master.....what is this Space, of which you speak, and may we mere mortals also have this gift of Space one day.
