The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,338
- Location
- Going Away.
A 3/8th Bevel Edge chisel. Has taken a decent edge as well.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
A 3/8th Bevel Edge chisel. Has taken a decent edge as well.
chris pruteanu
Member
- Messages
- 1,025
- Location
- ROMANIA
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,338
- Location
- Going Away.
The other day I made a post about using Soot Lamps when sharpening a blade.
The images didn't do the theme credit.
Here is another blade, the grinding angle has been dressed back and soot coated.
It is not even, but the point is to highlight what metal is removed.
You can now see the grinding angle is still soot covered.
But the cutting edge is now soot free and shows up clearly.
As per my original post a permanent marker will do the same job.
I think a soot lamp is more traditional. Plus more fun.
The images didn't do the theme credit.
Here is another blade, the grinding angle has been dressed back and soot coated.
It is not even, but the point is to highlight what metal is removed.
You can now see the grinding angle is still soot covered.
But the cutting edge is now soot free and shows up clearly.
As per my original post a permanent marker will do the same job.
I think a soot lamp is more traditional. Plus more fun.
slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,508
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
And twice as good if you're a smoker, you can light the coffin nails from it.
slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,508
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
Who says men can't multi-task? 
If progress on various 'projects' counts here's what I got up to today. I'll explain after the pics.....
[@The_Yellow_Ardvark will recognise something here
]
a) horseshoes have been through the citric bath for a few days and then polished up with a wire wheel in a bench grinder
b) the pistons, bearing caps, conrods and gudgeon pins were separated and initially in the citric bath, but moved to the ultrasonic cleaner which was better - they'll get the wire wheel treatment too once I finish all the h/shoes [c 20 to go
]
c) the gas canister for my 'tyre pumper upper' got a coat of metal primer, then a coat of Lidl's green metal paint I bought for the front gate I made, if anyone remembers that
]
d) the connector for c) is completed and all ready for the Euro connectors I need to complete the hose end connections to arrive, then I should be good to go
e) the kettle was to get boiling water into the u/sonic cleaner tank, it helps it work faster. But, the kettle needs a small repair to where the spout meets the body as it weeps water when tilted or if I inadvertently overfill it. The plan is to clean the joint and then solder it. The eagle-eyed among us will note that the lid knob isn't the original, it cracked and had to be replaced . Also, the small nut inside which secures the forward end of the handle is slightly slack. I can't get a spanner or fine-nosed pliers in so my only hope is if I find one in the box of spanners I collected at my brothers, having bought them on Facebook marketplace from a guy in Livingston, or if I have a socket small enough in my set [or if my neighbour has one].
I know I could buy on for not a lot, but where's the fun in that!
The obligatory mug is for scale, but is empty in the pic . It needs cleaning with bleach - that's what happens if you drink exclusively black coffee 
If progress on various 'projects' counts here's what I got up to today. I'll explain after the pics.....
[@The_Yellow_Ardvark will recognise something here
]a) horseshoes have been through the citric bath for a few days and then polished up with a wire wheel in a bench grinder
b) the pistons, bearing caps, conrods and gudgeon pins were separated and initially in the citric bath, but moved to the ultrasonic cleaner which was better - they'll get the wire wheel treatment too once I finish all the h/shoes [c 20 to go
]c) the gas canister for my 'tyre pumper upper' got a coat of metal primer, then a coat of Lidl's green metal paint I bought for the front gate I made, if anyone remembers that
]d) the connector for c) is completed and all ready for the Euro connectors I need to complete the hose end connections to arrive, then I should be good to go
e) the kettle was to get boiling water into the u/sonic cleaner tank, it helps it work faster. But, the kettle needs a small repair to where the spout meets the body as it weeps water when tilted or if I inadvertently overfill it
. The plan is to clean the joint and then solder it. The eagle-eyed among us will note that the lid knob isn't the original, it cracked and had to be replaced . Also, the small nut inside which secures the forward end of the handle is slightly slack. I can't get a spanner or fine-nosed pliers in so my only hope is if I find one in the box of spanners I collected at my brothers, having bought them on Facebook marketplace from a guy in Livingston, or if I have a socket small enough in my set [or if my neighbour has one].I know I could buy on for not a lot, but where's the fun in that!
The obligatory mug is for scale, but is empty in the pic
. It needs cleaning with bleach - that's what happens if you drink exclusively black coffee
Last edited:
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,900
- Location
- Kent, UK
Nice. I take it the key is also tapered?
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 12,967
- Location
- NE London - UK
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,900
- Location
- Kent, UK
If it wasn't then the keyway it located with on the shaft would also be cut at an angle, constraining the flange to only one position on the shaft with no facility for axial adjustment.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 12,967
- Location
- NE London - UK
If the keyway and key seats are both sut along the line of taper, which is how I assume they would be, then a standard parallel key could be used. Alternatively it could be a Woodruff key which used to be the standard on Triumph clutch hubs and main shafts.
Edit: Are you thinking along the lines of an L0 or L00 taper, perhaps?
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,900
- Location
- Kent, UK
Actually having read it again the bore is tapered so it doesn't depend on the key for axial location. It might still have a tapered key (or as you said, a woodruff) though since my Herbert mill has a top pulley that sites on a taper yet still has a tapered key in it. I remember reading about the reason why they do it but can't remember the source.
rory1
Member
- Messages
- 1,200
- Location
- Macclesfield
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,900
- Location
- Kent, UK
Cool. Odd way of over-complicating a key but cool nonetheless.
Scruffywelder
Member
- Messages
- 490
- Location
- Dumfries & Galloway, Scotland
Cat still using JIC fittings or have they gone onto something more available?
A pal had a Cat for a time and hoses for it were flippin' eyewatering...
rory1
Member
- Messages
- 1,200
- Location
- Macclesfield
Depends what machine it is. This one is on metric fittings, some are on SAE/ORFS , and the bigger stuff is on CAT proprietary flanges which are like code 62 flanges just a bit thicker.
JIC is a fairly uneversal , I’ve never found them difficult to get hold of.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,338
- Location
- Going Away.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,788
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Some bits and pieces for the Cheetah Cat I am currently fitting out.
Support arm for the davit, flange welded square to the end of some 3" tube and the other end milled out to fit onto the 3 1/2" davit, it will be welded in situ. Also a hinge for a helper for lifting/tilting the shooting table from 12mm 5083.
Some more bits for the davit, supports, top plate and base plate, again from 12mm 5083
Lastly a spigot from some alu for the davit sitting on, it will be welded to the base plate once the location is known. Also a stainless flap for the donkey engine exhaust and had to chop the pipe and reweld. It is a bought exhaust pipe/flange and was 45 degrees but it needed to be straight
Support arm for the davit, flange welded square to the end of some 3" tube and the other end milled out to fit onto the 3 1/2" davit, it will be welded in situ. Also a hinge for a helper for lifting/tilting the shooting table from 12mm 5083.
Some more bits for the davit, supports, top plate and base plate, again from 12mm 5083
Lastly a spigot from some alu for the davit sitting on, it will be welded to the base plate once the location is known. Also a stainless flap for the donkey engine exhaust and had to chop the pipe and reweld. It is a bought exhaust pipe/flange and was 45 degrees but it needed to be straight
Farside
Badly Welded Man
- Messages
- 6,290
- Location
- Ireland
Spent a couple of hours filing and grinding the weld blobs from the inside of the silencer, so that it's nice tight sliding fit onto the Delko collector, and there's a good inch of overlap to seal with.. I did the first few by hand, but thought sod this, there must be an easier way.
Dug out the Cheap 'n Cheerful air tool kit that I'd bought at the market yonks back and discovered an air die grinder that is, surprisingly, not as crap as I thought. The job went easily after that, but by 'eck it's a greedy sod for air demand. The compressor was running constantly for at least half an hour.
I'd venture to suggest the compressor is well run-in by now.
I cut the Hardly internals in half, so that there's still plenty of wadding and perforations in place, but ran a 10mm drill through the baffle, just because I could.
Fitted the silencer, after having to drill and tap the Harley bracket to M10, from its funny UNC thread (I recall when those were perfectly normal, but haven't even got any UNF or UNC nuts and bolts in stock, nor had for years).
The securing collar is temporary for now - a proper SS exhaust clamp is on its way, and the support strut at the rear can be re-done with something that looks a bit less hokey.
The AFR bung is in the right position, too. Which is nice.
Discovered that some toerag has nicked my Coppaslip.
All in all though, it works.
I'll start it tomorrow and see what it sounds like with half the guts it came from Hardly with.
Dug out the Cheap 'n Cheerful air tool kit that I'd bought at the market yonks back and discovered an air die grinder that is, surprisingly, not as crap as I thought. The job went easily after that, but by 'eck it's a greedy sod for air demand. The compressor was running constantly for at least half an hour.
I'd venture to suggest the compressor is well run-in by now.
I cut the Hardly internals in half, so that there's still plenty of wadding and perforations in place, but ran a 10mm drill through the baffle, just because I could.
Fitted the silencer, after having to drill and tap the Harley bracket to M10, from its funny UNC thread (I recall when those were perfectly normal, but haven't even got any UNF or UNC nuts and bolts in stock, nor had for years).
The securing collar is temporary for now - a proper SS exhaust clamp is on its way, and the support strut at the rear can be re-done with something that looks a bit less hokey.
The AFR bung is in the right position, too. Which is nice.
Discovered that some toerag has nicked my Coppaslip.
All in all though, it works.
I'll start it tomorrow and see what it sounds like with half the guts it came from Hardly with.
Tupers
Member
- Messages
- 985
After months of looking at them on instagram I finally got around to knocking a rocket stove together. I just need to flick some stove paint over it and I can get to cooking.
