- South Yorkshire, England
the hydraulic tappets on my car are getting a bit noisy so I decided that I'd give cleaning them a go. getting the middle bit out seems to end up with you getting a sore hand from bashing the tappet down against something and hoping it falls out. I was struggling to get 3 out this way so made one of the worlds simplest tools........a wooden stick
cut a flat bottomed hole in a piece of wood a couple of ft long so that the tappet can held in it and the cut the piece of wood so that you can clamp the tappet in place with a couple of studs and some nuts.
and it worked first hit without getting a sore hand, and because the piece of wood give me more hitting force as the end will travel faster than my hand, it makes the job easier but also split the wood too by the studs......just wish I'd thought of this earlier today.
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Until I saw the clamp I thought you were going to hinge the top as a flap so when you push the extendable support in it just hung down and blanked off the view of the bin.Today I continued to imagine that my workshop is bigger than it actually is. This time by making a "fair weather bench". I'd been getting frustrated at the amount of faff involved in getting the trestles and a board out of the shed if I needed a bit more working space on sunny days. Also I'm never very happy with how rickety the trestles-and-board combination is. My trestles are relatively heavy duty (although I bought them more because they can be adjusted to be a comfortable height for a tall person, unlike most), but they're not exactly sturdy.
Anyway, today my bench got an extension. I cut some grooves in the bottom of the end of my bench and set some 30 × 30 × 2 mm box section into it with four steel clamps to hold it in place:
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I then built a simple frame out of 25 × 25 × 2 mm box section and another one (for the legs) out of 20 × 20 × 2 mm box section. This frame slides (about 400 mm) into the box section fixed into the bench.
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At the moment I haven't added a diagonal to hold the legs vertical as it doesn't seem to need it. The "hinge" is just an M8 bolt through both pieces with a nut either side of the top frame so that the leg section swings freely but the screw won't move:
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I then added an 18 mm plywood top with some cut-outs (held in place with a load of M5 CSK screws):
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The cut-outs nearest the existing bench are to hold it in place:
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The ones at the back are for wheels...
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... which make it easy to slide down the back of my drawer cabinet when not in use:
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I guess that's another one for the ever growing list of "welded box section things that I must get round to painting at some point".
Until I saw the clamp I thought you were going to hinge the top as a flap so when you push the extendable support in it just hung down and blanked off the view of the bin.
its a qctpqctpGrabbed one of the wedge holder I made many moons ago.
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Remove the set screws and adjusting screw and chuck it in the Chiron.
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Put the Sherman into stick mode, grab a rubbish Sif 6013 and stick a capto C4 holder to it.
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Then onto the lathe for a test.
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A small selection of the various Capto C4 holders I have.
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And a quick video showing how easy it is to change. Now I just need to set them all up in the DRO.
I like your ideas .The thought had occurred to me (as it would have been quicker to install and remove if it was just a case of flapping it up and down), but it would have involved a huge amount of work as I would have had to make the bench shorter, which would have involved moving the drawer on the end, which would have involved moving the bench leg, which would have involved moving the vice, which would... well, you get the idea. The bench goes right up to the door so that the roller shutter passes it with about 10 mm clearance.