- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Ideally some form of mid-weight hydraulic oil, but anything liquid will work that won't damage the seals.
Melvyn Best
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Cobbler
Codger bodger
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More tea Vicar?
OJCar
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I use this for all my jacks, hydraulic press and engine crane, https://www.westwayoils.co.uk/products/hydraulic-oil-iso-32?variant=31226474561676
Not quite fixed yet but 'FIXING' !
(Welding content as I'm using welding clamps on the wood
We have a 'curved bridge' over a stream (yes the wife and daughter went to Monet's garden and wanted one
) and when built the curved handrails had to be laminated from shorter pieces as at the time I couldn't source 16 foot lengths of 6" x 2". Over the years the weather hasn't been kind to it and the rail is rotting but I have been able to source two 16 footers to replace them. Original 'curve' - more a series of straight lines wasn't ideal so this time I'm trying to get the replacement 'set' into a proper curve before removing the original (otherwise there'd be nothing to fix it to.
Now I've had it clamped into the curve for a couple of weeks - ideally I'd steam it but no suitable steam generator or tube to put it in - but then I thought of my Karcher steam cleaner.
So with the wood clamped in place I gave it a really good going over with the pressure set low to avoid raising the grain, and the temperature high. I've done this several times now but will it work ???
Have some pictures:
Place your bets and answers on a post card please
(Welding content as I'm using welding clamps on the wood
We have a 'curved bridge' over a stream (yes the wife and daughter went to Monet's garden and wanted one
) and when built the curved handrails had to be laminated from shorter pieces as at the time I couldn't source 16 foot lengths of 6" x 2". Over the years the weather hasn't been kind to it and the rail is rotting but I have been able to source two 16 footers to replace them. Original 'curve' - more a series of straight lines wasn't ideal so this time I'm trying to get the replacement 'set' into a proper curve before removing the original (otherwise there'd be nothing to fix it to.Now I've had it clamped into the curve for a couple of weeks - ideally I'd steam it but no suitable steam generator or tube to put it in - but then I thought of my Karcher steam cleaner.
So with the wood clamped in place I gave it a really good going over with the pressure set low to avoid raising the grain, and the temperature high. I've done this several times now but will it work ???
Have some pictures:
Place your bets and answers on a post card please
Yes that was a concern initially bending it. In the end I got a Junoesk friend to sit on it while I fixed the clamps - she's a good sport !
Last edited:
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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32 weight hydraulic oil, if you need any you are not too far away, you could nip over and I would give you a couple gallon.
Welded clutch was a success!
If you try drilling a hole with that bit you will need the clutch working!
I believe it has effectively 2 clutches, one being the electromagnet on the motor armature and the other one being the friction clutch on the rotary drive assembly so worse case that 2nd clutch will still work and slip it just doesn't have the electromagnetic version which disengages the second it detects a jamIf you try drilling a hole with that bit you will need the clutch working!
qwakers
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oh no.... oh no no no...
it is not knocking... but i don't dare run it any longer.
this is a newly rebuilt rx8 r3 that got recovered in because the oil pressure light was flashing. he also says he heard it start to knock.. good call by the owner. i was 'really' hoping it was the pressure sensor. the rebuilder is being very good about it, no arguments. asked me to diagnose it for him and go from there. i'll call him tomorrow and let him know, and let the owner know the results of the conversation. the likelihood is the pressure regulator is stuck open. that's not a cheap part on its own... i really hope it hasn't done the bearings, but its not good.
it is not knocking... but i don't dare run it any longer.
this is a newly rebuilt rx8 r3 that got recovered in because the oil pressure light was flashing. he also says he heard it start to knock.. good call by the owner. i was 'really' hoping it was the pressure sensor. the rebuilder is being very good about it, no arguments. asked me to diagnose it for him and go from there. i'll call him tomorrow and let him know, and let the owner know the results of the conversation. the likelihood is the pressure regulator is stuck open. that's not a cheap part on its own... i really hope it hasn't done the bearings, but its not good.
JOEPRO
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How often do those wankel engines last between rebuilds?
qwakers
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depends on usage and maintenance. i've stripped dead engines at 30k because the trailing coils died and melted the cat (Backpressure kills rotarys) and i've sold cars with 135k on (my personal record) which still had plenty of compression and another expected 30k or more with correct maintenance.
like any highly stressed performance engine, neglect it at your peril. 99.9% of dead rx8's are caused by a failed ignition system that the owner hasn't noticed. if a trailing plug or coil fails, you likely wont notice because the main spark event worked fine. trouble is, that second spark is to get rid of the rest of the fuel in the chamber. if that ends in the cat, it melts.
short journeys also aren't good for rotaries, and pottering around town cokes them up quicker than anything. i had a car come in with really low compression 4 bar ish and hot start issues. the owner was convinced it needed a rebuild. i persuaded him to bring it to a track day with me and have some fun before it dies.
it gained power throughout the day, he ended the day with a big smile and he had compression in the high 6 bar range. (for the record, 6 bar is excellent, 7.5-8 would be a new engine) he now does a few trackdays a year, that was 5 years ago and its now on 105k and still in the 6's
like any highly stressed performance engine, neglect it at your peril. 99.9% of dead rx8's are caused by a failed ignition system that the owner hasn't noticed. if a trailing plug or coil fails, you likely wont notice because the main spark event worked fine. trouble is, that second spark is to get rid of the rest of the fuel in the chamber. if that ends in the cat, it melts.
short journeys also aren't good for rotaries, and pottering around town cokes them up quicker than anything. i had a car come in with really low compression 4 bar ish and hot start issues. the owner was convinced it needed a rebuild. i persuaded him to bring it to a track day with me and have some fun before it dies.
it gained power throughout the day, he ended the day with a big smile and he had compression in the high 6 bar range. (for the record, 6 bar is excellent, 7.5-8 would be a new engine) he now does a few trackdays a year, that was 5 years ago and its now on 105k and still in the 6's
qwakers
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hang on a minute. im a idiot. its still a bit lower than expected... but psi is on the outside of the gauge.... ffs. 72psi is still lower than id expect cold but still...
ffs moron....
Blobber
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Still doing bits to the Tractor in between times, where the heater matrix had leak over a long period the shell of the headlining had become very fragile and broken in a lot of places, particularly the front corners where the big vents fit
You can still buy a new headlining but they are £482.00 plus the VAT
A bit of 1.5mm plastic medi sheet and lots of PU adhesive seems to have got it, not pretty but wont be seen!
You can still buy a new headlining but they are £482.00 plus the VAT
A bit of 1.5mm plastic medi sheet and lots of PU adhesive seems to have got it, not pretty but wont be seen!
