- Thread starter qwakers
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qwakers
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- cornwall, united kingdom
just about finished the block paving.
levelling off the sand
halfway through the pack
final endpoint for the block, just the cuts to do.
and all finished, concreted round the outside and ramp built.
that was a dawn til after dark graft with absolutely no breaks. its slow, hard work solo. had to get it done though as its the last day for weeks where the forecast is dry. especially overnight for long enough for the concrete to cure. i just need to make my Y style ground anchor and sink it in where ive made a hole and concrete it in. then the removable post for the front edge. then i have to grout the cracks and job jobbed.
levelling off the sand
halfway through the pack
final endpoint for the block, just the cuts to do.
and all finished, concreted round the outside and ramp built.
that was a dawn til after dark graft with absolutely no breaks. its slow, hard work solo. had to get it done though as its the last day for weeks where the forecast is dry. especially overnight for long enough for the concrete to cure. i just need to make my Y style ground anchor and sink it in where ive made a hole and concrete it in. then the removable post for the front edge. then i have to grout the cracks and job jobbed.
Been working on this for a couple of weeks. We are getting a lot of enquiries at the repair cafe for doll restoration, as there is no one local who does it. They normally get pushed in my direction. In the true spirt of the forum. I did have to buy some new tools for the job though!
Blue Chips
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- Maine, USA
I think this is sorta, kinda appropriate for this thread. After I fixed the concrete foundation for our new garage (see previous post: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/stuff-you-have-fixed-today.100753/post-2532025), the garage builders came last Friday and erected the garage, which fit the foundation perfectly after I had made the necessary cuts in the concrete.
Here's what the site looked like on Friday morning at 8:34 am (picture from trail camera):
And here's the same site, same day, seven hours later, at 3:34 pm, just after the builders left. For scale, the garage is 24 feet wide by 26 feet deep,, the doors are 9 feet high, and the main floor ceiling height will be just over 11 feet after the floor is poured.
There is still more work to be done when the weather warms up:
- Pour concrete slab floor when weather permits (reinforced to allow future installation of two-post car lift).
- Install trim moulding on lower part of garage around corners, doors, and windows.
- Paint lower part of garage when weather permits (same green as gable, with gray trim).
- Install stairway to attic storage area.
- Finish grading and paving driveway.
- Install electric service and wiring.
I think the builder did a good job. It's well built, with 2x6 on 16" center construction, with four double-glazed windows, an insulated side door with 9-lite window, full-length soffit and ridge vents, high-tech weather resistant siding and roof sheathing, etc., etc. The builder will complete the garage finish work when we have some warmer weather, except for the concrete and I'll leave the concrete floor to an expert, since it has to be poured and finished very accurately to match up with the doors and the stairway to the attic area. I will probably do the wiring myself, as well as the post lift installation.
Here's what the site looked like on Friday morning at 8:34 am (picture from trail camera):
And here's the same site, same day, seven hours later, at 3:34 pm, just after the builders left. For scale, the garage is 24 feet wide by 26 feet deep,, the doors are 9 feet high, and the main floor ceiling height will be just over 11 feet after the floor is poured.
There is still more work to be done when the weather warms up:
- Pour concrete slab floor when weather permits (reinforced to allow future installation of two-post car lift).
- Install trim moulding on lower part of garage around corners, doors, and windows.
- Paint lower part of garage when weather permits (same green as gable, with gray trim).
- Install stairway to attic storage area.
- Finish grading and paving driveway.
- Install electric service and wiring.
I think the builder did a good job. It's well built, with 2x6 on 16" center construction, with four double-glazed windows, an insulated side door with 9-lite window, full-length soffit and ridge vents, high-tech weather resistant siding and roof sheathing, etc., etc. The builder will complete the garage finish work when we have some warmer weather, except for the concrete and I'll leave the concrete floor to an expert, since it has to be poured and finished very accurately to match up with the doors and the stairway to the attic area. I will probably do the wiring myself, as well as the post lift installation.
RaceDiagnostics
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- 3,423
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- Broughty Ferry
E-brake calliper, what a stupid idea. That's the second one I've now had to replace on my golf.
What happens to them? We have a golf.
Blobber
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- lincolnshire
Nice, what is it a sort of prefab type building?
Blobber
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- lincolnshire
I cant believe how this modern stuff seems to rust, looks like it all needs a good pressure wash when it warms up!
Blue Chips
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- Maine, USA
The walls, gables, and roof trusses were constructed in a shop, and these large components were then assembled on site. The roof sheathing, underlayment, drip edge, shingles, ridge vent, doors, attic floor, etc., were installed in the usual manner. There really isn't any difference between this and a totally site-built approach, except that these sections are probably more accurate. Because the sections were pre-built, the foundation had to be poured exactly to spec, so that there wouldn't be any surprises when they assembled the pieces. It worked out fine; the sections fit just right and didn't require any trimming or shimming, which helped it go up faster.
RaceDiagnostics
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- 3,423
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- Broughty Ferry
They seize up, with the parking brake on, ours is a Mk7 2015 with 100k miles.
Same as ours. I'll have to keep a check on it.
Is it the parking brake mechanism or the caliper that seize?
RaceDiagnostics
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- 3,423
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- Broughty Ferry
Difficult to say which is at fault as they are integrated. After using vcds to release the parking brake I still had to lever the caliper off as it was still tight.
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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What is vcds exactly, can you spray it on or do you need a brush. I suspect it is an electronics software program?
RaceDiagnostics
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- Broughty Ferry
Today I sorted out an issue with a land drain that runs under my farmyard. In the recent cold spell we have had an increasingly large 'ice cap' growing in the yard - it got to the stage that visitors children in the holiday cottages were using it for rough skating.
I installed this perforated land drain quite some time ago when we had puddles forming. In the end it actually transpired that the water source was a leaking South East Water main in the road and it was running between layers to this point. The drain cured the problem but then they also repaired the leak!
When I started using my borehole as a source of cooling for my induction furnace it was convenient to draw water from the bore hole, pass it through a heat exchanger and return the slightly warmed water via this land drain some hundreds of feet away to a handy stream. As the bore hole was sightly artesian I arranged that the return pipe also served as an overflow. Now this bore hole was originally used for public water supply but that stopped when they decided that the iron content was too high - BTW it was originally 250 foot deep by 5 foot diameter in 1923 when dug - I've plumbed it to still be over 190 foot deep !
Now I'd always thought that the iron sludge that forms would perhaps block my pipes and I strongly suspected that to be why water was emerging from the course of this land drain and freezing into the ice cap - even several days after the weather has improved we still have a vestigial ice cap !
Now I was loathe to use normal drain rods on a perforated drain and instead wanted to high pressure water jet it with a retro-jet that should help to unblock the pipe perforations - I knew that I had one somewhere but not only could I not find it, I knew its pipe was only 25 foot long - OK Amazon what have you to offer?
Well £52 got me this delivered last night:
I had to cobble together bits from two pressure washers to end up with a trigger mechanism to start and stop the flow and be close enough to the action - but I got there in the end.
Now when I installed the original land drain I'd terminated it with a rodding eye at the high end so inserted the retro-jet at that point. Perhaps I should explain these things have six backwards facing jets to propel it forwards, and one forward facing to cut through blockages.
At about 15 foot in I come up against something solid - I couldn't get further. Measuring on the ground I was pretty sure that this was where the borehole overflow tee-'d in - blast do I have to dig! Well one last attempt got me though thank goodness to another (but softer) stoppage - working the high pressure hose in an out eventually I heard a fair old flow plummet into the stream. By the time I got to the exit end the flow had diminished considerably but there was a very large patch of very brown silty water going down stream.
At this point I wanted maximum flow down the pipe to flush as much out as possible, and of course a pressure washer doesn't create much flow. So I started up the Induction Furnace cooling system that has a flow rate of something like 50 gallons a minute IIRC. Sure enough more silty gunge and had the advantage of slightly reducing the borehole level.
In this image of the bore hole access manhole the green stripey pipe is the pump suction hose that goes down about 15-20 foot to a weighted strainer, and the 32mm MDPE pipe is the flow from the heat exchanger going into the branch in the land drain and thus out to the stream.
I left it flowing for some time before packing everything up. This is the retro-jet nozzle:
100 foot of high pressure pipe reeled for next time !
All together a satisfactory result only needing a brace of Ibuprofen and a hot shower to recover from !
I installed this perforated land drain quite some time ago when we had puddles forming. In the end it actually transpired that the water source was a leaking South East Water main in the road and it was running between layers to this point. The drain cured the problem but then they also repaired the leak!
When I started using my borehole as a source of cooling for my induction furnace it was convenient to draw water from the bore hole, pass it through a heat exchanger and return the slightly warmed water via this land drain some hundreds of feet away to a handy stream. As the bore hole was sightly artesian I arranged that the return pipe also served as an overflow. Now this bore hole was originally used for public water supply but that stopped when they decided that the iron content was too high - BTW it was originally 250 foot deep by 5 foot diameter in 1923 when dug - I've plumbed it to still be over 190 foot deep !
Now I'd always thought that the iron sludge that forms would perhaps block my pipes and I strongly suspected that to be why water was emerging from the course of this land drain and freezing into the ice cap - even several days after the weather has improved we still have a vestigial ice cap !
Now I was loathe to use normal drain rods on a perforated drain and instead wanted to high pressure water jet it with a retro-jet that should help to unblock the pipe perforations - I knew that I had one somewhere but not only could I not find it, I knew its pipe was only 25 foot long - OK Amazon what have you to offer?
Well £52 got me this delivered last night:
I had to cobble together bits from two pressure washers to end up with a trigger mechanism to start and stop the flow and be close enough to the action - but I got there in the end.
Now when I installed the original land drain I'd terminated it with a rodding eye at the high end so inserted the retro-jet at that point. Perhaps I should explain these things have six backwards facing jets to propel it forwards, and one forward facing to cut through blockages.
At about 15 foot in I come up against something solid - I couldn't get further. Measuring on the ground I was pretty sure that this was where the borehole overflow tee-'d in - blast do I have to dig! Well one last attempt got me though thank goodness to another (but softer) stoppage - working the high pressure hose in an out eventually I heard a fair old flow plummet into the stream. By the time I got to the exit end the flow had diminished considerably but there was a very large patch of very brown silty water going down stream.
At this point I wanted maximum flow down the pipe to flush as much out as possible, and of course a pressure washer doesn't create much flow. So I started up the Induction Furnace cooling system that has a flow rate of something like 50 gallons a minute IIRC. Sure enough more silty gunge and had the advantage of slightly reducing the borehole level.
In this image of the bore hole access manhole the green stripey pipe is the pump suction hose that goes down about 15-20 foot to a weighted strainer, and the 32mm MDPE pipe is the flow from the heat exchanger going into the branch in the land drain and thus out to the stream.
I left it flowing for some time before packing everything up. This is the retro-jet nozzle:
100 foot of high pressure pipe reeled for next time !
All together a satisfactory result only needing a brace of Ibuprofen and a hot shower to recover from !
Blue Chips
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- 721
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- Maine, USA
Just a little evening project. Bought an old cast-iron Detecto scale, ca. early 1920s for a bargain price. It wasn’t in bad condition, although it had been painted at some point in its history and was a little rusty. Based on some photos of others like it, it appeared that one of the parts was installed backwards, and it was also a bit out of balance. There were traces of black paint under the green paint.
I took it apart, bead blasted the parts, primed the parts with self-etching primer, painted them satin black, sharpened the edges of the two hardened-steel centre pivots, cleaned all six pivot grooves, and reassembled it, adjusting the amount of factory-installed steel buckshot under the right-hand platform to balance it.
I also cleaned up the 16-oz scale bar, blackened the markings to make them more legible, and gave the bar a protective coat of polyurethane. Total time spent, about three hours over two evenings. It’s now balanced and operates like new. I can blow on it gently and the platforms move up and down smoothly. I suspect it will probably just serve decorative duty, but I like knowing that it works.
I took it apart, bead blasted the parts, primed the parts with self-etching primer, painted them satin black, sharpened the edges of the two hardened-steel centre pivots, cleaned all six pivot grooves, and reassembled it, adjusting the amount of factory-installed steel buckshot under the right-hand platform to balance it.
I also cleaned up the 16-oz scale bar, blackened the markings to make them more legible, and gave the bar a protective coat of polyurethane. Total time spent, about three hours over two evenings. It’s now balanced and operates like new. I can blow on it gently and the platforms move up and down smoothly. I suspect it will probably just serve decorative duty, but I like knowing that it works.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
This was going to be a pig, from the get go.
It clearly had bean left, unloved for a long time. I am guess after some one tried to dismantle it.
Rust was going to be an issue. First I had to get the brass pump body of the cast iron bowl.
It was then I found this and a few more.
Some nuts did crack when the splitter was used. But most had o be cut off.
It failed.
The Bowl was far to thin to weld, I invested in so Hob nobs and asked a friend if it could be tig welded. It could be, but it would be very costly.
A retaining Jig was made and the thicken flange was OE Brazed up. It was not a pretty repair, but it held and the flange was strong.
The Internals of the bowl was reinforced with Glass fibre.
The whole of the inside of the bowl was given 3 layers of matting.
It clearly had bean left, unloved for a long time. I am guess after some one tried to dismantle it.
Rust was going to be an issue. First I had to get the brass pump body of the cast iron bowl.
It was then I found this and a few more.
Some nuts did crack when the splitter was used. But most had o be cut off.
It failed.
The Bowl was far to thin to weld, I invested in so Hob nobs and asked a friend if it could be tig welded. It could be, but it would be very costly.
A retaining Jig was made and the thicken flange was OE Brazed up. It was not a pretty repair, but it held and the flange was strong.
The Internals of the bowl was reinforced with Glass fibre.
The whole of the inside of the bowl was given 3 layers of matting.
