dan.taylor.1
General Tinkererer
- Messages
- 2,786
- Location
- Kendal, Cumbria
Do they work better than the rubber cup and plastic ball type?
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
mtt.tr
Member
- Messages
- 8,454
- Location
- Essex/Suffolk border
Take my hat of to you, I look at it and think nah I'll pay someone.
But I've lost my enthusiasm for most things
Edward Teach
pre-moderated
- Messages
- 995
- Location
- South West England
I repaired the element in this Dualit Toaster
Westfield-builder
Member
- Messages
- 1,652
Take the paper label off the plug-top pins, it is a fire risk !
dobbslc
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 13,305
- Location
- Hertfordshire UK
I finally got round to fitting the last bit of kitchen yesterday as it was lashing down with rain all day and laying paving wasn't going to happen!
We left this corner as we hadn't decided what to do with the cooker hood next to it but that was fitted months ago so time to get it done!
SWMBO wanted another wine rack! So that got squeezed in and was a close enough fit to the wall that I didn't have to scribe a fillet in.
The plastic duct at the top was cut off as I didn't need that in the end as I went straight up into the eaves and out the gable end wall with flexible ducting.
That was part of the reason that corner was left as I didn't know what to do with the extractor on the cooker but going straight up solved that.
Back onto the patio today
We left this corner as we hadn't decided what to do with the cooker hood next to it but that was fitted months ago so time to get it done!
SWMBO wanted another wine rack! So that got squeezed in and was a close enough fit to the wall that I didn't have to scribe a fillet in.
The plastic duct at the top was cut off as I didn't need that in the end as I went straight up into the eaves and out the gable end wall with flexible ducting.
That was part of the reason that corner was left as I didn't know what to do with the extractor on the cooker but going straight up solved that.
Back onto the patio today
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,345
- Location
- Going Away.
Nice quiet day yesterday, neighbour was not very well, so I was nice and kept the power tool use to a low level.
Two out of three 115v work lights, now converted to 240v. New lamps, new plugs.
These were used as a training aid.
How to wire a plug up.
How to re-wire items. Use of clamps and new seals.
How to fault find when an item does not pass a P.A.T.
This one failed P.A.T. on the earth return, a reading of 19ohms. The Cross head screws had rusted, so the resistance built up. A clean up and a retest.
This is another failure, the terminals had corroded. So we robbed a good one froam another dead unit.
Oh well, not all items can be saved.
Two out of three 115v work lights, now converted to 240v. New lamps, new plugs.
These were used as a training aid.
How to wire a plug up.
How to re-wire items. Use of clamps and new seals.
How to fault find when an item does not pass a P.A.T.
This one failed P.A.T. on the earth return, a reading of 19ohms. The Cross head screws had rusted, so the resistance built up. A clean up and a retest.
This is another failure, the terminals had corroded. So we robbed a good one froam another dead unit.
Oh well, not all items can be saved.
Definitely,I tried these out on my fork lift ,first with a plastic one,but as soon as you rode a bump it failed.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,345
- Location
- Going Away.
One the recent donations.
The Lantern has two lamps fitted to it, as I call them:
Dip and Main beam.
The Dip side did not work.
So back at my play pen 2 members were keen to get it working. Now, you have to understand they have never done stuff like this before.
So I drank coffee and answered questions. I did not help.
A simple task to some of us on here, but a challenge to some.
The issues found were.
Corrosion on terminals.
Broken cables, caused by bad crimping of the terminals.
So, they re-wired the whole lot.
Done.
Moose McAlpine
Member
- Messages
- 1,615
- Location
- Norf Lund'n
I was the someone!
It's a mate's van, he needs it on the road and needs it reliable, so i offered to do it for him. I didn't charge him for it.
My enthusiasm's returned a bit lately, with new job and things starting to improve.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,345
- Location
- Going Away.
A few weeks ago I met up with a fantastic lady, who was kind enough to donate a lot of stuff.
A box of mystery.
A nice selection of Bits for a Bit and brace drill.
Yes, I have to organise the restoration the one donated.
The worm damaged was bad, so.
The drills were in the condition you would expect for being stored in a damp box.
The steel in theses bits is fantastic, on a wet stone they came up very well.
All done, all sharp and their future is secure.
They are now added to part sets we have. They will se sold on to raise funds for MIS.
A box of mystery.
A nice selection of Bits for a Bit and brace drill.
Yes, I have to organise the restoration the one donated.
The worm damaged was bad, so.
The drills were in the condition you would expect for being stored in a damp box.
The steel in theses bits is fantastic, on a wet stone they came up very well.
All done, all sharp and their future is secure.
They are now added to part sets we have. They will se sold on to raise funds for MIS.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,345
- Location
- Going Away.
This Welsh Slate hammer was in poor condition.
The tangs hard gone work soft, or were never hardened and tempered in the first place.
Even the shaft hole is an odd size.
So a claw hammer handle was shaped to fit. The wedge is white oak. Only for the simple reason is it was the right size.
Fitted, French polish and waxed.
As we don't have much, if any slate down here. I shaped the tangs to be a useful chipping hammer.
This pre WW1 hose nozzle was used as a trail fro a of the shelf brass restorer.
Not bad, but if you leave it on to long it will leech the cooper out,.
So you have to work harder to polish it out.
The tangs hard gone work soft, or were never hardened and tempered in the first place.
Even the shaft hole is an odd size.
So a claw hammer handle was shaped to fit. The wedge is white oak. Only for the simple reason is it was the right size.
Fitted, French polish and waxed.
As we don't have much, if any slate down here. I shaped the tangs to be a useful chipping hammer.
This pre WW1 hose nozzle was used as a trail fro a of the shelf brass restorer.
Not bad, but if you leave it on to long it will leech the cooper out,.
So you have to work harder to polish it out.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,345
- Location
- Going Away.
Bit of fun for me.
This 1976 Mamod Roadster was complete, minus the rare 3 prong rubber coated steering rod.
Close inspection showed the car has bent steering rods and beams. The boiler passed a pressure test with air.
A hot test showed a massive leak.
To get to the boiler the rivets have to be drilled out, in short all but a complete strip down.
As part of any Mamod restoration I always replace the seals and washers.
The yellow item is one of the original drive bands from the car. Home made, but the worked.
On This car, there are 2 drive bands, one per side. Later cars had the drive bands on one side.
Rebuilt.
The boiler cover came up better than I hoped. The steering arrangement was coaxed back into a working condition.
The piston, rod and cylinder were honed out. The steam pipes were full of hard water build up.
This meant that forward drive was good, but reverse was not.
I have "Meths", as it was designed to run on. I have a burner tray to convert it to solid fuel as well.
But This time I tried a Gel fuel. Why not.
I may replace to boiler.
This is a classic example of running a Mamod with little or no water in the boiler.
In this case it lead to the end caps solder had melted. So I had to remove them both and tin and re fit.
The Rivets are genuine Mamod rivets. You can use of the shelf ones, but they are either a loose fit, or you have to open the holes up a fraction.
Finished and in full steam.
There are only 2 speeds, forward and reverse. Later Roadsters had a progressive speed control.
This 1976 Mamod Roadster was complete, minus the rare 3 prong rubber coated steering rod.
Close inspection showed the car has bent steering rods and beams. The boiler passed a pressure test with air.
A hot test showed a massive leak.
To get to the boiler the rivets have to be drilled out, in short all but a complete strip down.
As part of any Mamod restoration I always replace the seals and washers.
The yellow item is one of the original drive bands from the car. Home made, but the worked.
On This car, there are 2 drive bands, one per side. Later cars had the drive bands on one side.
Rebuilt.
The boiler cover came up better than I hoped. The steering arrangement was coaxed back into a working condition.
The piston, rod and cylinder were honed out. The steam pipes were full of hard water build up.
This meant that forward drive was good, but reverse was not.
I have "Meths", as it was designed to run on. I have a burner tray to convert it to solid fuel as well.
But This time I tried a Gel fuel. Why not.
I may replace to boiler.
This is a classic example of running a Mamod with little or no water in the boiler.
In this case it lead to the end caps solder had melted. So I had to remove them both and tin and re fit.
The Rivets are genuine Mamod rivets. You can use of the shelf ones, but they are either a loose fit, or you have to open the holes up a fraction.
Finished and in full steam.
There are only 2 speeds, forward and reverse. Later Roadsters had a progressive speed control.
slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,508
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
I'd like to see how you manage when you are thirsty and the very last bottle is in the top section.....
Loads of potential for when you have to climb up to retrieve it.
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,576
- Location
- Gloucestershire, UK
I'd like to see how you manage when you are thirsty and the very last bottle is in the top section.....
Loads of potential for when you have to climb up to retrieve it.
Ah, short person problems...
indy4x
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 3,539
- Location
- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
Recovered our Renault Master camper today, it was in storage up until Sept 2020, moved it out of storage and dropped it at a mates garage and asked him to sort out the exhaust leak and replace one of the front ball joints.
This was all part of my cunning plan, he's always busy so when you say no rush you know it's going to be a while before he gets round to it so effectively I've was getting free storage
So a year later and still no sign of him making a start I brought it home and squeezed it on the drive.
It's booked in for an MOT this week and as the weather was rubbish I did the usual checks on lights etc and gave it a jetwash
Side lights and hazzards not working but with a bit of wiggling on the switches they would occasionally work
Removed them from the van, squirted loads of contact cleaner into them and wiggled them some more and they are now working again
Squirted some ACF50 into them for good measure and then spent 3hrs with the jetwash getting all the green gunk off the van
This was all part of my cunning plan, he's always busy so when you say no rush you know it's going to be a while before he gets round to it so effectively I've was getting free storage
So a year later and still no sign of him making a start I brought it home and squeezed it on the drive.
It's booked in for an MOT this week and as the weather was rubbish I did the usual checks on lights etc and gave it a jetwash
Side lights and hazzards not working but with a bit of wiggling on the switches they would occasionally work
Removed them from the van, squirted loads of contact cleaner into them and wiggled them some more and they are now working again
Squirted some ACF50 into them for good measure and then spent 3hrs with the jetwash getting all the green gunk off the van
Edward Teach
pre-moderated
- Messages
- 995
- Location
- South West England
Really
That is how it was presented to me when I collected it from the previous owner.
Though yes, it could be a fire hazard, in the worse case scenario,
Thank you for your concern
Edward Teach
pre-moderated
- Messages
- 995
- Location
- South West England
The Dualit Architect Toaster I repaired, has cross head screws holding most of it together, though the base metal work was held in place with the twist tabs, the same as your toaster.
All of the inside metal panels making up the element 'body/frame' were of the twist tab type, and came apart with a little effort.
Prajna
Fixing things for the love of it
- Messages
- 682
- Location
- Castelo Branco, Portugal
Did some more fixing-up on Ant-on-knee's tractor. The hand break had a bit of toilet chain welded to an arm that was welded to the handle. The other end of the chain was welded to the foot brake pull rod. I replaced the chain with a pull rod. All from bits in my will-come-in-usefull pile. Dunno what the folded-sheet handbrake handle is made from but I welded some 5mm plate to it with a 2mm 6013 @ 60A and I think I could have gone hotter and not burned holes in it even though it looks thinner than 1.5mm
