Stuff you have fixed today

[sako243]

The battle has finally been won! Time to clean it all up, paint it and start the reassembly process.

 

[indy4x]

@sako243 judging by the blown plastic box in the corner of the picture it looks like you have the same Chinese made hydraulic pullers as me

Has it had much use yet? Done a few easy jobs with mine and so far it's been OK but not given it a serious workout

 

[sako243]

@sako243 judging by the blown plastic box in the corner of the picture it looks like you have the same Chinese made hydraulic pullers as me

Has it had much use yet? Done a few easy jobs with mine and so far it's been OK but not given it a serious workout

It's been invaluable in a couple of jobs because of the "tooling" but I'd have said the 10t rating is ambitious. Potentially a fine threaded bar to match the pullers would exert as much force.

I had a gear to remove from my old ride on mower and the bearing splitter was used for that. Similarly the pullers have been used because they're just better built than the typical screw thread ones.

I tried pulling a seized pulley off an old topper box and destroyed one puller (the hydraulic bit) but a replacement was £22. I made a plate like LRs special tool for using the puller to push out the hub and it failed. Took it to the neighbours press and according to the gauge it took 7t to blow the bearing apart. Hence the ambitious 10t.

I think I might keep an eye out for a proper Sykes Pickavant cylinder bit going cheap as they're all the same thread. I don't use it enough to justify a new one but if one comes up cheap it'll probably actually achieve the 10t.

Mate has borrowed it as well for pulling bearing from a tractor gearbox shaft.

 

[AKN]

It's been invaluable in a couple of jobs because of the "tooling" but I'd have said the 10t rating is ambitious. Potentially a fine threaded bar to match the pullers would exert as much force.

I had a gear to remove from my old ride on mower and the bearing splitter was used for that. Similarly the pullers have been used because they're just better built than the typical screw thread ones.

I tried pulling a seized pulley off an old topper box and destroyed one puller (the hydraulic bit) but a replacement was £22. I made a plate like LRs special tool for using the puller to push out the hub and it failed. Took it to the neighbours press and according to the gauge it took 7t to blow the bearing apart. Hence the ambitious 10t.

I think I might keep an eye out for a proper Sykes Pickavant cylinder bit going cheap as they're all the same thread. I don't use it enough to justify a new one but if one comes up cheap it'll probably actually achieve the 10t.

Mate has borrowed it as well for pulling bearing from a tractor gearbox shaft.

I have the same kit in a different coloured box. Blew the hydraulic ram bit and got a seemingly more robust one from Cromwell (Zoro) for not much.

 

[Brad93]

It's been invaluable in a couple of jobs because of the "tooling" but I'd have said the 10t rating is ambitious. Potentially a fine threaded bar to match the pullers would exert as much force.

I had a gear to remove from my old ride on mower and the bearing splitter was used for that. Similarly the pullers have been used because they're just better built than the typical screw thread ones.

I tried pulling a seized pulley off an old topper box and destroyed one puller (the hydraulic bit) but a replacement was £22. I made a plate like LRs special tool for using the puller to push out the hub and it failed. Took it to the neighbours press and according to the gauge it took 7t to blow the bearing apart. Hence the ambitious 10t.

I think I might keep an eye out for a proper Sykes Pickavant cylinder bit going cheap as they're all the same thread. I don't use it enough to justify a new one but if one comes up cheap it'll probably actually achieve the 10t.

Mate has borrowed it as well for pulling bearing from a tractor gearbox shaft.

Them same grease based rams from sykes are rated 8 ton i believe, but im dubious that those actually make 8 ton. When you go up to the hydraulic SKF/Kukko/FAG type, that are rated 10 and 12 ton, you actually get that amount of force, and you can shift a bearing very quickly.

 

[T5 TDI]

Don't tell me, with a removal service included?

I once saw a sign written van with 'Acme Boob Handling' on the side. They would handle the removal job.

 

[sako243]

Them same grease based rams from sykes are rated 8 ton i believe, but im dubious that those actually make 8 ton. When you go up to the hydraulic SKF/Kukko/FAG type, that are rated 10 and 12 ton, you actually get that amount of force, and you can shift a bearing very quickly.

Well out of curiosity I've been doing some calculations to see whether it's feasible.

This website https://roymech.org/Useful_Tables/Human/Human_strength.html suggests that the typical max torque that a human can apply to a 300x20mm bar is ~477Nm.

The force applied by a bolt is given by: Bolt Force (kN) = Torque (Nm) / Diameter (mm) * k where k is typically 0.15 for an unlubed bolt. So assuming an M10 thread being screwed into the top of the cylinder (roughly what mine is) then we get ~318.2kN of force being applied by the bolt to the top of the master cylinder. 10 metric tons of force is equal to ~98kN of force from the slave cylinder.

Even without the advantage of hydraulics a typical M10 bolt can theoretically exert enough force to apply 10t of force. Making a long thin master cylinder and a fat wide slave cylinder we have hydraulic advantage resulting in less effort required on the screw thread. A 2:1 ratio of cylinder radii would result in a 4:1 hydraulic advantage, 3:1 -> 9:1 as so on. You lose "travel", i.e. you wind in the thread 100mm you might only get 1mm on the output but that's true anyway.

So I think it's perfectly feasible. Hydraulics are a wonderful thing.

 

[T5 TDI]

I once saw a sign written van with 'Acme Boob Handling' on the side. They would handle the removal job.

Apologies, this ended up in the wrong place! It was supposed to be a reply about wired bras in the funnies section!

 

[Barking Mat]

So following my chainsaw failures story, I lent it to my colleague who diagnosed scored piston and lack of compression (joy).

He leant me one, it has loads of compression, second time I started it, the starting pull handle came off in my hand.

10 mins on YouTube, 10 mins on the chainsaw, all sorted.

 

[Beeezer]

So following my chainsaw failures story, I lent it to my colleague who diagnosed scored piston and lack of compression (joy).

He leant me one, it has loads of compression, second time I started it, the starting pull handle came off in my hand.

10 mins on YouTube, 10 mins on the chainsaw, all sorted.
View attachment 430069
Sought after saw that is..

 

[cheb]

Rewired the plant room/airing cupboard light. It's now usefully bright in there, previously it would have been considered a bit dark even for a romantic tryst.

A 1200mm LED batten from Toolstation and not a 40W equivalent CF bulb.

 

[lotus_esprit_s1]

Couple of outboard motor gearbox casings!!

 

[Maker]

Anyone remember this time last year I acquired a brand new, not working coffee grinder? I dismantled it, tested a few components, decided I was out of my depth and left it in pieces on the healing bench. Well today I channelled my inner CuriousMarc, probed a few more components, then I spotted it;



Burnt track after D7. Bridged with a bit of TCW, an hour wrestling the case back together and it's good as new.



I'm assuming the track was damaged from the factory rather than another fault drawing more current than the track can handle, its not the thinnest part of the track so it would have burnt somewhere else if that were the case.

 

[Barking Mat]

Well, I thought I'd fixed it for a while.

Bugger.

So, following on from my I thought I'd fixed it, my mate diagnosed scored piston, no compression.

So I ordered new cheap Chinese replacement engine, stripped the old one out, took hours, bloody hours, new one in, all back together, this evening, old piston was scored.

So a spring from the chain brake has evaporated during this 36 hour period, not even something I'd touched, but getting the clutch off was an ordeal. I will order one, and I've a couple of unimportant looking bits left over, which I'm at a loss.

I'll post photos tomorrow, just goes to prove I shouldn't be left unsupervised.

 

[Blobber]

So, following on from my I thought I'd fixed it, my mate diagnosed scored piston, no compression.

So I ordered new cheap Chinese replacement engine, stripped the old one out, took hours, bloody hours, new one in, all back together, this evening, old piston was scored.

So a spring from the chain brake has evaporated during this 36 hour period, not even something I'd touched, but getting the clutch off was an ordeal. I will order one, and I've a couple of unimportant looking bits left over, which I'm at a loss.

I'll post photos tomorrow, just goes to prove I shouldn't be left unsupervised.

I think we all have days like that

 

[Barking Mat]

Well, may the gods be praised, rich coming from an aetheist.

It started dead easily, hasn't done that for yonks, and runs beautifully, replacement lost bit ordered, here's the scored piston, doesn't look that bad to me, but what do I know ? Loads of compression, runs a treat.

If anyone knows what these bits are and where they go, I'm all ears.

 

[Red'n'Black]

Usually the rings are a bigger cause for loss of compression. Take them off the piston and fit them in the bore - push them in with the piston crown to get them square. With mullered ones there'll be a big gap between the ends. Should be 5 - 10 thou, I've seen ¼" on some.

 

[dobbslc]

If anyone knows what these bits are and where they go, I'm all ears.

Pound coin goes in my pocket before you get done for smuggling the Queen's (kings?) currency into enemy territory

The ring thing looks like it goes over the fuel bulb that you press to prime the carb, the other bit looks like half a gudgin pin!

 

[RichardM]

Pound coin is no longer legal tender before you get done for snuggling hedgehogs

The ring thing looks like it goes over the fuel bulb that you press to prime the carb, the other bit looks like a location dowel.

FTFY

 

[dobbslc]

Edited although I think I prefer hedgehog snuggling