- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,338
- Location
- Going Away.
The numers are the manufcatures details and does not match anything in thr Bulb Bible, typical french. Even a manufacture, well the company who own them now have no clue what they mean.
The pins are off set and at differant heights, to allow it to be adjusted in the cap spring. The length also varries, for some reason.
Yesterday I repaired the van's x-member to refit the plated chassis rails and got it back on, and started cutting out the rusty sections of the drivers step (which of course ended up being mist of it, even though it was only crunchy in one small bit).
Today I made new sections to reinforce and replace the step floor and part of the back panel, and spent ages drilling plug-weld holes, plug-welding and seam-welding it back together.
The welds aren't much to look at (all awkward angles upside-down under the van, or contorted... well that's my poor excuse anyway
) but it's now nice, strong and solid.
Today I made new sections to reinforce and replace the step floor and part of the back panel, and spent ages drilling plug-weld holes, plug-welding and seam-welding it back together.
The welds aren't much to look at (all awkward angles upside-down under the van, or contorted... well that's my poor excuse anyway
) but it's now nice, strong and solid.
Mick Annick
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,929
- Location
- Burgundy, France (450 miles SE of Somerset)
Ardy
Have a look on here - if any of these are right I’m happy to buy some and get them to you.
Ampoules 12V
Sur cette page vous retrouvez les ampoules en 12V pour voiture, moto, tracteur, scooter et plus.
In the ongoing "Forth Bridge" type of operations needed to (try to) keep an elderly van on the road - yesterday I repaired the Drivers side Step.
OK, I'll not win any prizes for Welding, Fabricating or Presentation (& Welding in awkward positions, lying on your back attempting vertical & inverted welds is bloody hard & a ball-ache for my limited experience and ability) - but the result is all-good steel, plug & seam-welded and bloody strong .
Time for a coat of high-zinc Bilt Hamber paint, with a larrup of Bitumen Paint Topping (Yummy) to keep the Tin Weevil at bay.
(The runs are from brushing on some Scalex Rust Converter over existing metal just as an extra).
OK, I'll not win any prizes for Welding, Fabricating or Presentation (& Welding in awkward positions, lying on your back attempting vertical & inverted welds is bloody hard & a ball-ache for my limited experience and ability) - but the result is all-good steel, plug & seam-welded and bloody strong .
Time for a coat of high-zinc Bilt Hamber paint, with a larrup of Bitumen Paint Topping (Yummy) to keep the Tin Weevil at bay.
(The runs are from brushing on some Scalex Rust Converter over existing metal just as an extra).
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,338
- Location
- Going Away.
Bit of fun today.
This brass charcoal iron was aquired by me a few weeks ago. I got it for a friend who wanted a "odd and differant door stop".
I have some my self I use for the same thing.
The insdies was balck with soot and the oily residue when it was fired on hot coals.
This picture does not show how much work went in to cleaning it.
But it is now shinny.
The wood handle took the polish and wax very well.
I got these tow small planes. I hoped to be able to restore them for a model making friend.
The simple idea was to restore and at least save one. Even if it meat robbing bits from one or raiding my spare bins
But saddly both blades are shot.
None of my spare blades fit them.
Bot have been fixed, the blade has and edge. But the steel is very soft and will need hardeneing in a carbon rich fire.
That is for another day.
This Volt meter was worth the funds to play with and re-learn how to balance and set up a MCM.
The maker is now a part of Fluke, they were kind enough to send me the setting up PDF.
Cleaned and working. With in 5%.
This brass charcoal iron was aquired by me a few weeks ago. I got it for a friend who wanted a "odd and differant door stop".
I have some my self I use for the same thing.
The insdies was balck with soot and the oily residue when it was fired on hot coals.
This picture does not show how much work went in to cleaning it.
But it is now shinny.
The wood handle took the polish and wax very well.
I got these tow small planes. I hoped to be able to restore them for a model making friend.
The simple idea was to restore and at least save one. Even if it meat robbing bits from one or raiding my spare bins
But saddly both blades are shot.
None of my spare blades fit them.
Bot have been fixed, the blade has and edge. But the steel is very soft and will need hardeneing in a carbon rich fire.
That is for another day.
This Volt meter was worth the funds to play with and re-learn how to balance and set up a MCM.
The maker is now a part of Fluke, they were kind enough to send me the setting up PDF.
Cleaned and working. With in 5%.
I've had an annoying vibration, kind of a drumming felt through the floor of my old LDV Convoy for a while, so been investigating.
Yesterday (as they are known to introduce vibration at certain road speeds) I had the propshaft off, checked out and replaced the donut on the centre bearing, re-assembled and checked/greased all the UJ's.
Didn't alter things appreciably.
So today I checked the front Shocks (as I knew the NS was getting on a bit, and I had a new one ready to go on).... jacked it up, removed the Front OS wheel and poked about. Turned out that the Lower Shock mounting bracket fixing bolt... was loose on the transverse beam axle! The thread on the Nyloc nut had failed (but was still on).
Pulled it all to bits, bunged on the new shock and refitted the Lower mount with a new UNF nut (luckily I had just one UNF nut in amongst things in the shed...& it was the right one (not Nyloc but used a Spring Washer with it).
Quick test drive showed all was well, and the ride also noticeably better
Yesterday (as they are known to introduce vibration at certain road speeds) I had the propshaft off, checked out and replaced the donut on the centre bearing, re-assembled and checked/greased all the UJ's.
Didn't alter things appreciably.
So today I checked the front Shocks (as I knew the NS was getting on a bit, and I had a new one ready to go on).... jacked it up, removed the Front OS wheel and poked about. Turned out that the Lower Shock mounting bracket fixing bolt... was loose on the transverse beam axle! The thread on the Nyloc nut had failed (but was still on).
Pulled it all to bits, bunged on the new shock and refitted the Lower mount with a new UNF nut (luckily I had just one UNF nut in amongst things in the shed...& it was the right one (not Nyloc but used a Spring Washer with it).
Quick test drive showed all was well, and the ride also noticeably better
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,338
- Location
- Going Away.
This set of weights came my way the other day.
One weight was missing, the Tweezers were missing and I had to cut soem glass to cover the small weights.
Taking the box to bits, the lid catches broke.
So I made some new ones, cleaned the weights and polkished the box.
My attempts to age the new brass was not that good.
I was stung on this one.
It is made up from many differant sets.
The box was taken back to bare wood, sealed and polished.
The pole boss was tapped to the cortrect thread. The beam was bent into shape.
The weighs were refilled with lead to bring them to the correct weight.
One weight was missing, the Tweezers were missing and I had to cut soem glass to cover the small weights.
Taking the box to bits, the lid catches broke.
So I made some new ones, cleaned the weights and polkished the box.
My attempts to age the new brass was not that good.
I was stung on this one.
It is made up from many differant sets.
The box was taken back to bare wood, sealed and polished.
The pole boss was tapped to the cortrect thread. The beam was bent into shape.
The weighs were refilled with lead to bring them to the correct weight.
Didn't know you could buy those clips. Really annoying when they are broken. I will order some, thanks. My poor old B&D Workmate also now needs two new wooden top plates making since I laughingly forgot to set the cutting depth on my new circular saw a few months ago!
dan.taylor.1
General Tinkererer
- Messages
- 2,786
- Location
- Kendal, Cumbria
Guy I sub for did that but went into the brand new pallet forks with the tct blade...Didn't know you could buy those clips. Really annoying when they are broken. I will order some, thanks. My poor old B&D Workmate also now needs two new wooden top plates making since I laughingly forgot to set the cutting depth on my new circular saw a few months ago!
Got some new shouldered bolts and compatible Nyloc nuts on order - the nut & spring washer was justa temp fix & to be able to test and prove all was wellI'd be finding a nyloc, or the bottle of medium threadlock . . .
Spring washersIts now a flat washer with cut through it.
qwakers
Member
- Messages
- 2,510
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
lots of smashed fibreglass and a dented bumper fixed over the last couple of days...
first off the front bumper has a dent in it. a spot of oxy acetylene, a anvil and a big hammer and...
dents-r-gone
next is the step that i smacked on a rock last month. that fix is easy, buy a new one...
alloy strips riveted to the panel to attach the broken bits back together...
all fiberglass'd up which should sort the structural strength out, just have to drill the rivets out and do the front side for a invisible repair.
repairing the damage, adding new captive nuts and prepping the panels for paint...
and primed.
first off the front bumper has a dent in it. a spot of oxy acetylene, a anvil and a big hammer and...
dents-r-gone
next is the step that i smacked on a rock last month. that fix is easy, buy a new one...
alloy strips riveted to the panel to attach the broken bits back together...
all fiberglass'd up which should sort the structural strength out, just have to drill the rivets out and do the front side for a invisible repair.
repairing the damage, adding new captive nuts and prepping the panels for paint...
and primed.
qwakers
Member
- Messages
- 2,510
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
blue body with black trim is going to look badass!
i had to paint the step and grille twice.... ended up having to wash the paint back off and do it again.
considering the total jigsaw puzzle I started with, the alignment here is pretty good...
bumper brackets cleaned up, new captive nuts welded in (easier than welding nuts onto what's left of the bolts and removing them...)
just gotta put it back together now.
i had to paint the step and grille twice.... ended up having to wash the paint back off and do it again.
considering the total jigsaw puzzle I started with, the alignment here is pretty good...
bumper brackets cleaned up, new captive nuts welded in (easier than welding nuts onto what's left of the bolts and removing them...)
just gotta put it back together now.
Last edited:
Lewis_RX8
Member
- Messages
- 1,571
- Location
- Scotland
Nice work jealous of the results , reminded me of my van paint bodge over a weekend in painted outside with halfords finest
So thats my excuses lol forgot a before pic as usual but plastic bumper was pushed into metal frame and that split it open so melted it back together with big soldering iron and reinforced then filled and sanded down , Thought it looked smooth till I put primer on which showed every imperfection but didnt sand or do enough coats so rushing it was to blame
White primer to go on to match the colours
Then gloss frozen white to match the transit , The paint seemed a good match maybe because the van is new-ish with less fading than the other older cars I have tried to fix paintwork on
With the bumper mounted and on the van where it is aswell really going to be hard to notice so plenty good enough for me and my halfords rattle cans with poor techniques and conditions
So thats my excuses lol forgot a before pic as usual but plastic bumper was pushed into metal frame and that split it open so melted it back together with big soldering iron and reinforced then filled and sanded down , Thought it looked smooth till I put primer on which showed every imperfection but didnt sand or do enough coats so rushing it was to blame
White primer to go on to match the colours
Then gloss frozen white to match the transit , The paint seemed a good match maybe because the van is new-ish with less fading than the other older cars I have tried to fix paintwork on
With the bumper mounted and on the van where it is aswell really going to be hard to notice so plenty good enough for me and my halfords rattle cans with poor techniques and conditions
qwakers
Member
- Messages
- 2,510
- Location
- cornwall, united kingdom
the secret to blending is to not mask the panel off for the topcoat and lacquer. then spray the colour, and lacquer it slightly beyond the area the colour is on then use fade out thinners on the rest of the panel immediatly after each coat to melt the overspray.
however on a small part like that its easier to just spray the entire panel...
however on a small part like that its easier to just spray the entire panel...
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,338
- Location
- Going Away.
This may catch some ones attention.
Been left a damp shed. The worm have had a good feast on the handle.
The plan was not do a full restoration, but to areest the decay.
Some of the worm damage.
I have treated the worm, it was old damage. Sealed the wood and given it a good wax.
Using a Oil stone it took an edge, it will need more to give it a real clean edge. For now it will do.
A bit of wax.
Been left a damp shed. The worm have had a good feast on the handle.
The plan was not do a full restoration, but to areest the decay.
Some of the worm damage.
I have treated the worm, it was old damage. Sealed the wood and given it a good wax.
Using a Oil stone it took an edge, it will need more to give it a real clean edge. For now it will do.
A bit of wax.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,338
- Location
- Going Away.
This Hay cutter was aquired by me the other week.
A nice hand forged tool.
The brown rust stain in pitting. The handle has had worm in the past.
Two blade rivets and the handle rivets were rust loose.
Near the top of the blade, you can see the blue heat bloom from were I closed up one of the rivets.
Lowwer down you can see some black in the pitting. That is the soot from a haigh carbon flame. used to burn the red oxide off and induce carbon back into the blade.
The handle was submerged in Varnish and nail varnish remover. This drives out the damp and does for any worm eggs.
Then a few coats of clear coat.
The blade was dressed to take an edge. I wasa bit keen. It was very sharp.
To the point I had to dull the edge, afet it easly cut my jumper.
A nice hand forged tool.
The brown rust stain in pitting. The handle has had worm in the past.
Two blade rivets and the handle rivets were rust loose.
Near the top of the blade, you can see the blue heat bloom from were I closed up one of the rivets.
Lowwer down you can see some black in the pitting. That is the soot from a haigh carbon flame. used to burn the red oxide off and induce carbon back into the blade.
The handle was submerged in Varnish and nail varnish remover. This drives out the damp and does for any worm eggs.
Then a few coats of clear coat.
The blade was dressed to take an edge. I wasa bit keen. It was very sharp.
To the point I had to dull the edge, afet it easly cut my jumper.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,633
- Location
- Keeler crater
Fixed my blowtorch! Peizo hasn't worked for years and it's a bloody nightmare to light externally, you need to cover the airholes, light it, lower the pressure on the reg until you can uncover the air holes without it going out, then turn the reg back up to get a useful flame.
I threaded a new wire through the neck and added a bit of heatshrink to hold it near the peizo/stop it shorting to the body. It used to take longer to light than it took to fix it, I can't believe it took me so long to get around to it.
I threaded a new wire through the neck and added a bit of heatshrink to hold it near the peizo/stop it shorting to the body. It used to take longer to light than it took to fix it, I can't believe it took me so long to get around to it.
