ajlelectronics
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A toe in is certainly not going to help. Without seeing your data, I would have set the front up parallel with any tolerance towards toe out.
- Thread starter Wozzaaah
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Bullet2012
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Might help to know though, I still think you may be looking for something that has been damaged or tweaked by a pothole or kerb.
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It's not toeing in, it's toeing out, I had a brain fart and misread the specs and results.
500e
Always buy fire insurance a flood is a hard start
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So we have replacement column, top joints, lower joints, alignment checked but out by small factor, being adjusted as we think, track rod ends, steering rack.
So what is left column mountings plying it ? unlikely, rack mountings same unlikely. power steering bits and software
Damage to one side also unlikely as settings are close to correct, (one side short it did not worry some old Renault's)
If is not returning from both locks points to rack or bent mountings plying rack have seen it on forest escorts.
Colum UJs maybe
Rear end not a chance, but would check just for peace of mind.
So what is left column mountings plying it ? unlikely, rack mountings same unlikely. power steering bits and software
Damage to one side also unlikely as settings are close to correct, (one side short it did not worry some old Renault's)
If is not returning from both locks points to rack or bent mountings plying rack have seen it on forest escorts.
Colum UJs maybe
Rear end not a chance, but would check just for peace of mind.
MoreWellie
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I had an MGF and it is a common issue. Try http://mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/common_problems/epas_reset/index.htm
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That is not the same fault I have.
MoreWellie
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Is yours not self centering from both left and right turns then?
500e
Always buy fire insurance a flood is a hard start
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Was told they had checked that @MoreWellie
He said it is the same in both directions, I would think the fault suggested in UMG would be much more pronounced on one lock
He said it is the same in both directions, I would think the fault suggested in UMG would be much more pronounced on one lock
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That's correct, no matter if I turn left or right, the wheel does not fully return to centre.
That EPAS fault you linked to manifests in either the wheel turning to the left of it's own accord or the steering being easier to turn to the left than to the right.
Bullet2012
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That was the R4, and it was designed that way.
colnerov
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And the Renault 16.
An unhelpful answer as there is more than one variant in that series of falken tyres.
I shall assume that was born of fustration.
The MGF probably had Goodyer Eagle NCT2 as a tyre from new, the follow on NCT3 was also regarded as a good tyre to suit the car.
Since that time tyre design has changed to follow the requirements of the bulk of cars on the road, ie front drive with more castor.
The tyre manufacturer will make pressure recommendations for these modern requirements.
Try tyre pressures from say 3 bar downwards in 0.2 bar steps ( 45psi in 3 psi steps for those using old equipment )
If it makes no difference then at least you've ruled out tyre pressures.
8ob
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Strange old bus, been reading about them out of curiosity, built on two metro subframes. Always thought front wheel drive motors were set up with a calculated amount of toe out which cancels out under acceleration ( this lot will be on the back of an mgf) and front suspension on a normal rwd are set up with a tad of toe in which ends up parallel under braking to stop things feeling squirrely under braking.
Bob
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185/55 15 Ziex ZE310 ecorun XL on the front, and yes!
Will experiment with the tyre pressures and see if it has any effect.
30'd be plenty I would suggest on the fronts. And parallel toe in/out.
MGF Rover parts bin special @8ob , crazy amount sold too. The TF had bespoke subframes, with coil over shocks that was jarry as hell, but it was more of a hooligan car. The wife's 135bhp version was quick, noisy and fun, when taken in small doses. I had too much rear grip/not enough power to do doughnuts...
Common failure is the clutch and the alternator - wet blows in the side vent and seizes the clutch arm and the alternator - not a car to leave outside in the wind and rain.
MGF Rover parts bin special @8ob , crazy amount sold too. The TF had bespoke subframes, with coil over shocks that was jarry as hell, but it was more of a hooligan car. The wife's 135bhp version was quick, noisy and fun, when taken in small doses. I had too much rear grip/not enough power to do doughnuts...
Common failure is the clutch and the alternator - wet blows in the side vent and seizes the clutch arm and the alternator - not a car to leave outside in the wind and rain.
I'm suggesting pumping them up hard enough to balloon them and reduce the contact patch to see if the self-centring or lack of is affected.
When blown up too far the steering should get very sensitive and the car feel very twitchy.
If it does not then something in the steering or front suspension is dominating the feel.
ajlelectronics
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Yes, Scimitars have the same issue from time to time. There are two in the column that are exposed to exhaust heat and general crud respectively. The lower one is partly hidden inside a box section to make repair more "interesting".
