- Thread starter dazza
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Hood
I am obsessed.
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I never do stupid things like thatI cant stop picking up things i've just welded.
dazza
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The best one was a hot end of filler rod straight though the palm of the glove into my hand. I wanted less filler rod out so pushed it against the palm of my hand.... muppet won't do that again.
dazza
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I'm going to try and get some stock later.
Aluminium, brass and delrin any thing else i should try and get hold of?
rikrobson
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what are you going to be making? you'll probably was to get hold of some steel too.I called a few places they don't have offcuts.
Need to send them an email with the diameter of what i want and they will tell me the minimum length i can order.
I have no idea what to get
dazza
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No idea would be nice to make some feet for the lathe but need some practice first.
Pete.
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Forget suppliers. Scrap yards, fabricators, workshops etc. I get a lot of my stuff from demolition, once I got a big pile of aluminium stair rods that are just about to run out.
I once bought a Coronet wood lathe for £40 coz I wanted the motor off it. Got the 2 long steel bed bars inch and a half diameter for turning stuff out of into the bargain, decent stuff too. Think out of the box and you'll find stuff everywhere.
Also don't discount d stuff because it's rusty or dirty. There's good metal under the surface.
I once bought a Coronet wood lathe for £40 coz I wanted the motor off it. Got the 2 long steel bed bars inch and a half diameter for turning stuff out of into the bargain, decent stuff too. Think out of the box and you'll find stuff everywhere.
Also don't discount d stuff because it's rusty or dirty. There's good metal under the surface.
rikrobson
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I'd practice on the material you are going to use. Each metal including alloys all machine differently to each other, and the tooling need to be made slightly differently. For example aluminium will make long stringy chips ans the chips don't break on the tool. Also the tooling is a factor. Carbide tooling can run alot faster and take bigger cut's. You'll find that Carbide tooing tends to give a better finish on a heavy cut. Brass will make lots of tiny chips and the tooling usually has a negative rake. Cat iron makes a fine powdery grit and doesnt need a lubricant, buy you must clean that up as its quite abrasive.
rikrobson
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ALso check the hardness with a file before turning. If it is hard, then you can chuck 'em in the fire for the evening and let them cool overnight. If you have't got a fire it need to go to cherry red and then cool slowly.
There are a few you tube chanels that are good. Mrpete222 is an old "shop" teacher and has alot of youtubes on turning as does our own @doubleboost . Then there are the two keiths aswell as many more.
There are a few you tube chanels that are good. Mrpete222 is an old "shop" teacher and has alot of youtubes on turning as does our own @doubleboost . Then there are the two keiths aswell as many more.
dazza
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I'm leaving the chuck guard cut off switch on for now just in case.
I did turn something the other day
.
dazza
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I was going to have a little go at making a handle for the backgear lever, I thought it was M8 but it must be imperial.
Put the thread gauge on the stub i removed, it seems a perfect match for 18.g with a diameter of 0.314 (5/16) can i cut this thread? What change wheels would i need?
Put the thread gauge on the stub i removed, it seems a perfect match for 18.g with a diameter of 0.314 (5/16) can i cut this thread? What change wheels would i need?
Pete.
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Your threading chart should tell you the gears for 18tpi. Assuming you have a 8tpi leadscrew then I'd say 16 tooth stud gear and 36 tooth screw gear probably with a suitable fitting idler between them. If you don't have those sizes a 24 tooth stud and 54 tooth screw gear will do the same.
addjunkie
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Id be wary of ordering too much brass, its bloody expensive. Ali 6082 and en3 mild steel are good for learning. As the en number for steel rises it get harder. En 16 T for example is good for motorcycle wheel spindles.
rikrobson
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I thought you said it was a metric machine. If so you'll need the 135/127 compound gear to cut true imperial threads on a metric BUD. If you have then its a 32 stuc 135/127 idler as 64 screw. I don't have a 64 tooth so i'd use two 32s and the 48/24 idler as well. If you have that then its you can get a close approximation using different sizes. It depends which gears you have.
5/16 W is 18TPI which is a mm pitch of 1.411 mm. the closest with the even wheels is 1.428 which will be 28 on the stub and 32 on the screw with the 80 idler.
if its an imperial one then its 24 on the stud the 80 idler and 54 on the screw.
5/16 W is 18TPI which is a mm pitch of 1.411 mm. the closest with the even wheels is 1.428 which will be 28 on the stub and 32 on the screw with the 80 idler.
if its an imperial one then its 24 on the stud the 80 idler and 54 on the screw.
