Sherman Tig (Jasic in disguise?)

[mdr]

Has anyone the welde
website discount handy

You can search the site to find it (futureproof)...

https://weldes.co.uk/gb/search?controller=search&search_query=Sherman+DIGITIG+206P

This is the direct link as of writing...

https://weldes.co.uk/gb/tig/932-sherman-digitig-206p-acdc-welder-pedal-control.html

The product details pages seems to show the level of stock...

 

[mdr]

Apologies if this is mentioned in one of the previous pages... Can someone confirm if the £50 pedal on the Weldes.co.uk is variable amp control or just on/off?

 

[DavidL]

Hi @mdr - it is a variable control (though the welder must be put into pedal mode first, by holding the pedal down for 5-ish secs) - this is not reflected on the display when not welding.
I think it shows current when welding though, but haven't used it in a month-ish, so may be misremembering this!

-David

 

[AdamS]

Any chance you could link to that kit you got? i'm seeing lots of gas saver kits on amazon, varying in price wildly, and i'm not sure exactly what pieces i need for the torch on the sherman.

I went for this one TIG Stubby Gas Lens Pyrex cups kit but it seems like it's only available from China now with super slow post . Check the Riverweld store (people doing that kit) on Amazon though, they have a few kits with UK stock. I'm not sure if I'd get Pyrex cups again, at least not for learning, as every time you put the torch down, if you knock the cup slightly you have to push it straight again. On their store page you want anything from the "TIG KIT 17 18 26" section, I went for a stubby kit, which seems quite popular. After you have the gas lenses and collets from a stubby kit, you will be using any gas saver cups meant for 9, 20 or 25 torches, rather than 17/18/26 (the Sherman one is a 26).

I wouldn't be surprised if all the different brands on Amazon are coming from the same factory in China . Hopefully you can find what you need with UK stock across all the brands. I'd try to cover:

• Long, med, short back caps (57Y02 to 57Y04)
• Gas saver cups 4 - 8 (53N58 to 53N61S)
• 2x 1.6 mm stubby gas lens (17GL116)
• 2x 1.6 mm short collet (10N23S)
• 2x 2.4 mm stubby gas lens (17GL332)
• 2x 2.4 mm short collet (10N24S)
• Gas lens insulator (17GLG20) (if you get a CK torch, these insulators in the kits don't quite fit, but if you cut some of the lip off of the inside of the insulator with a scalpel or craft knife they'll fit)

Alternatively, from what I've read you could just get the 2.4 mm stuff and when you do your 1.5 mm steel, just sharpen it into a longer point, but I've no idea if there's any downsides to doing that. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in .

A gas lens will probably last you ages once you're proficient, but it'd be good to have at least 2 for while you're learning for any monumental filler into tungsten dips . My first one has a few bits of spatter on the mesh after a few days of practising (I haven't noticed a difference with gas coverage yet). I'd be a bit peeved if I'd bought genuine CK stuff for 5x the price and gunked it up immediately...

this is not reflected on the display when not welding.

There's a little green light that comes on with the beep that looks like a slope

 

[Gazz292]

nice one, thanks for that info.

i've noticed amazon is getting worse lately, a lot of stuff from china with a month or more delivery time, and prime items having a 4 day delivery... tho i ordered a peashooter last night at 9pm... it arrived at 9am today.. 12 hours delivery time, so proves it can be done.

 

[Gazz292]

Re: the tungsten to use for different metal thicknesses,
that's where i saw that in europe 2mm tungstens and filler rod is an option, and i thought that might be a size to use that covers both,
but of course, it's 1.6 then 2.4mm in the uk, so consumables would have to come from europe... mind i don't think there is a welding consumables supplier near where i live, other than a motor parts store that stocks mainly arc welding fizz sticks, so i'll be ordering all my bits online anyway.

 

[Gazz292]

i also want to get a flexi head for the sherman torch,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313156116964?

It that the type i need? the WP-26F one?

 

[DavidL]

There's a little green light that comes on with the beep that looks like a slope

Sorry; I was perhaps misunderstood. I actually meant the pedal-set amperage isn't reflected on the display.

 

[PSweeney]

Anyone found a good setting for 2mm outside corner joints on this machine ?

 

[jonclancy]

Very near to ordering, but just wanted to check which of the 5-pin plugs I will need to order too. Does Weldes bung any extra accessories in the box, too, or did you guys pay extra shipping costs. Sorry for the dull questions - the info is buried in the thread. Perhaps a sticky with the details? There are over 90 machines left in stock when I last looked. I think they will be gone by Xmas!

Many thanks!

 

[AdamS]

It that the type i need? the WP-26F one?

I believe so. I'm not sure if there's 100% cross brand compatibility (like with CK and the teflon insulating gaskets), but yes the Sherman one is a WP26. You could always trim the silicone if it doesn't quite fit in the handle

Sorry; I was perhaps misunderstood. I actually meant the pedal-set amperage isn't reflected on the display.

Ah, sorry! I tried to look if it changed on the display while welding yesterday but it was too dark through my hood to see . I'm not sure how the extra pot on the side of the Sherman pedal works. For my pedal (without the extra pot) on AC, just the switch in the pedal clicked activates the HF start and then it goes to the pre-ramp amperage when not depressed at all, then up to the max set amps when fully depressed.

For pulsed AC I believe the pedal just adjusts the lower side of the pulse but I'm not certain -- the machine locks the lower amps to 5 on the menu when the pedal is enabled and I believe with the pedal fully depressed it's like having pulse disabled and it takes that from 5 to the max set, as I couldn't hear the pulsing at all when I did that. I'll test later, 200 amps max, with the locked 5 amps lower end, and the pedal just clicked and not depressed, that should average 102.5 amps which would be enough to get a puddle going on 3 mm alu albeit quite slowly (or maybe I'll get some fireworks if the 200 amp part blows it away )...

Sorry if that's all standard stuff, hope it's helpful to have it written explicitly for someone else learning!

 

[Chris Snow]

I'm not sure how the extra pot on the side of the Sherman pedal works

It sets the maximum output for the pedal, leave it on max and set it on the welder instead, would be used if the welder did not have an adjustable max.

 

[DavidL]

Sorry if that's all standard stuff, hope it's helpful to have it written explicitly for someone else learning!

I agree wholeheartedly. Good to read everyone's experience - most definitely

We did do some experiments with the side-pot after seeing the wiper-end way it was wired up. It seems pointless as it would be easier to set the max at the welder. (edit: Sorry, as Chris has just said!)

 

[Colly2020]

I went for this one TIG Stubby Gas Lens Pyrex cups kit but it seems like it's only available from China now with super slow post . Check the Riverweld store (people doing that kit) on Amazon though, they have a few kits with UK stock. I'm not sure if I'd get Pyrex cups again, at least not for learning, as every time you put the torch down, if you knock the cup slightly you have to push it straight again. On their store page you want anything from the "TIG KIT 17 18 26" section, I went for a stubby kit, which seems quite popular. After you have the gas lenses and collets from a stubby kit, you will be using any gas saver cups meant for 9, 20 or 25 torches, rather than 17/18/26 (the Sherman one is a 26).

I wouldn't be surprised if all the different brands on Amazon are coming from the same factory in China . Hopefully you can find what you need with UK stock across all the brands. I'd try to cover:

• Long, med, short back caps (57Y02 to 57Y04)
• Gas saver cups 4 - 8 (53N58 to 53N61S)
• 2x 1.6 mm stubby gas lens (17GL116)
• 2x 1.6 mm short collet (10N23S)
• 2x 2.4 mm stubby gas lens (17GL332)
• 2x 2.4 mm short collet (10N24S)
• Gas lens insulator (17GLG20) (if you get a CK torch, these insulators in the kits don't quite fit, but if you cut some of the lip off of the inside of the insulator with a scalpel or craft knife they'll fit)

Alternatively, from what I've read you could just get the 2.4 mm stuff and when you do your 1.5 mm steel, just sharpen it into a longer point, but I've no idea if there's any downsides to doing that. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in .

A gas lens will probably last you ages once you're proficient, but it'd be good to have at least 2 for while you're learning for any monumental filler into tungsten dips . My first one has a few bits of spatter on the mesh after a few days of practising (I haven't noticed a difference with gas coverage yet). I'd be a bit peeved if I'd bought genuine CK stuff for 5x the price and gunked it up immediately...


There's a little green light that comes on with the beep that looks like a slope

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313166118612 I got this one seems pretty good.

 

[Gazz292]

i'm clicking all over the internet right now (mostly amazon and ebay) and buying all the little bits n pieces, boy they soon add up,
I went for an 18 piece gas lens kit with just the pink ceramic nozzles for now, 3 x gas lenses (1, 1.6 & 2.4mm) numbers 4 thru 8 ceramics, the collets (just standard ones) insulator, 3 x blue tungstens, and a long, med and short back cap, £8.15 on amazon.

I was a little put off with most of the kits that had just the straight pyrex nozzles, i think they are about a size 10 nozzle, the ones with the varying size pyrex nozzles that are like the ceramic ones in shape bump the cost up a fair bit,
So i'll try pyrex nozzles at a later time.

Then i'll be ordering 2 gas lenses on their own from weldes in 1.6 and 2.4mm size (£2.08 each) as spares for 'when' i dunk the tungsten too much and plug the gauze.


Another question.. sorry about them all, i believe the welder dosen't come with a piece of gas hose? just the female rectus connector,
what size is that connector's tail? weldes sell 8mm ID hose only, so i presume that'll be the stuff, but want to be sure, don't want to be stuck with all the welding stuff and no hose for the argon to flow thru.

 

[Gazz292]

just wanted to check which of the 5-pin plugs I will need to order too. Does Weldes bung any extra accessories in the box, too, or did you guys pay extra shipping costs. Sorry for the dull questions - the info is buried in the thread. Perhaps a sticky with the details? There are over 90 machines left in stock when I last looked. I think they will be gone by Xmas!

Many thanks!

i'm ordering one of these :
https://weldes.co.uk/gb/plugs-and-sockets/1658-5-pin-control-plug-tig.html

it says it's for the 206p, i only want one incase i make up another torch with a smaller head and handle sometime,

no idea about extra accesories, i've only just ordered my welder too... hence all my questions, i do know now you get a little box with a few bits for the torch, but thats about it, afaik the welders dosent come with a gas hose... hence my question above about the size of it needed.

i paid exactly £480.68 for the welder, and that's shipped to my door, i asked them to not send it friday as i'll be ordering other bits to go with it, so they can put them in the same package and save themselves postage, so it's going out monday.

i bought machine number 97 yesterday (meaning about the 3rd one of the stock of 100 i presume they got in) they are down to 93 now, so they might sell out sooner than xmas.

 

[paulo1974]

Can someone tell me how does the 206p pedal works?
The outside potencimeter is for fine tune?
Pictures of the inside of the pedal wanted!!!!

 

[Chris Snow]

Can someone tell me how does the 206p pedal works?
The outside potencimeter is for fine tune?
Pictures of the inside of the pedal wanted!!!!

Just put it on max and forgot it exists... Or remove it if it bothers you! It's basically a potential divider feeding a potential divider.

 

[paulo1974]

It's basically a potential divider feeding a potential divider.

As i said a fine tuning pod

 

[Gazz292]

i'm sure there's diagrams and pictures of the pedal insides in this thread,

the outside pot is a bit useless really, limits max amps at the pedal i believe... maybe if you were 20 meters from the welder and needed to stop yourself flooring it and blowing holes in the metal, but easier to reach over and turn max amps down on the machine.

just remember when you cant get more than 20 amps from the pedal at max, you've knocked the pot, and to turn it back up... or remove it like most say to do.