Sandringham 6x6

[sako243]

Well another little stint in the workshop this evening and that's the outside edge of one chassis rail needle gunned thoroughly up to the bulkhead area.



So far only the rear-most spring hanger has revealed itself as a dodgy area. The rest is sounding pretty sound

. I do realise it'll most likely be underneath that's the issue but doing what I can inside as it's easier to sweep the floor. Minimise the rubbish that's deposited outside on the cobbles.

Started attacking the top of it as well but hands started tingling and supper was calling.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Interesting, it looks like they spliced in a couple of sections to the 109 chassis, shifting the standard parts back and extending them. Did they reverse a bit of it with the spring hangers for the centre axle?

 

[sako243]

I think there was a reason behind it (keeping the extension lengths to a minimum). Can't remember if it was @jsf55 here who said it or someone over on LR4X4

 

[sako243]

Interesting, it looks like they spliced in a couple of sections to the 109 chassis, shifting the standard parts back and extending them. Did they reverse a bit of it with the spring hangers for the centre axle?

What's worrying is that it looks like some of the modifications that have been done have effectively created a sealed inside the chassis.

Makes me double take on the galvanising thoughts. If I get it to this stage then some Deox gel, epoxy primer and jotun may be the best way forward.

 

[jsf55]

The one we did had a section chopped out and about 18" added too it, it was so long ago now

 

[addjunkie]

Blue steel, or navy seal rust convertor might be a solution

 

[minimutly]

What's worrying is that it looks like some of the modifications that have been done have effectively created a sealed inside the chassis.

Makes me double take on the galvanising thoughts. If I get it to this stage then some Deox gel, epoxy primer and jotun may be the best way forward.

Can you galv rust? Serious question because you can't needle gun inside the chassis..

 

[sako243]

Can you galv rust? Serious question because you can't needle gun inside the chassis..

No, but you can dip the chassis to help clean it prior to galv. That's why they charge more for old chassis from what Mark and I could work out. Basically extra care when prepping it to clean out the inside and then they charge you a "skimming" charge to clean the scum out of the bath.

Its not perfect but it's a damn sight better than nothing.

 

[sako243]

Yet more needle gunning

That's fuel tank crossmember to gearbox crossmember done.

 

[sako243]

So quite a bit happened, then paused, and yesterday I resumed work on this as we're supposed to be taking it to Scotland in August...

There were some distractions with collecting the new lathe, blowing brake lines on the 110, bad engine noises on the 110, rapidly reassembling the L322, dealing with various plumbing leaks.

Yesterday evening I rolled the chassis out so I could lift the body on its pallet off then set to with the air hacksaw. Slow going but it was better than the non existent alternatives

Then after all axles were removed it was flipped upside down and relocated back inside. A minor accident happened to the poop pipe at the back... Luckily nothing came out and I had a spare length in stock so that got replaced this morning.

 

[sako243]

This morning I set too with the needle gun again and through sheer stubbornness did the underside of the chassis.

The three main bits to repair are around the third cross member, and the rear most leaf hangers.

 

[sako243]

Not sure it's completely necessary but it was such a convenient offcut of 100x50x5 box lying next to the chassis it was rude not to. Some actual welding content on mig-welding

Now let's play a game of spot the difference

I think my reasoning was sound.

Plan is currently to cut out the original bit of chassis behind the reinforcing gussets and see if I can get a piece slid in behind and basically redo the plug welds they have done.

I also shoved a semi working borecam in a few points along the chassis at the middle and was pleasantly surprised. It still looks like it's either painted or got millscale present on it. Basically where they've extended or worked on the chassis has gone bad but the original bits seem to be in good nick (at least near the middle).

 

[reb78]

You've done what I was going to suggest Ed. I was repairing my 110s chassis and when I got to the rear a frame cross member it was so rotten in and around it, I abandoned the repairs and ordered a new chassisfor fear the old a frame.cross member would crumble or break in use. I know you can't order a new chassis but as I was reading, I was thinking about my cross member and thinking that you'd be wise to cut them out and repair and remake them and where they attach.

 

[sako243]

It's only that middle one that was an issue as far as I can tell. Chatting with @Wildefalcon yesterday he had a theory where it's where the millscale got burnt off from the chassis extensions.

Regardless now I've delved into it the way it's been extended doesn't look like it's been done the best way, they appear to have created a fair few traps and not very well drained cavities.

It's also solidified the fact I don't think I'm going to get it galved. Aside from turnaround, expense etc., there are a few other very minor spots where they've overlapped bits of steel (for example around the rear cross member) that aren't a concern in the slightest structurally but would be nice to sort long term. They're way too much work to take on at the moment for no benefit, at least by just treating and painting well it's easier to sort later than if it were all galved.

 

[sako243]

Some copy and pasting from another forum so a bit out of context perhaps:

In an effort to keep this ticking along I thought I'd see if the plasma was behaving itself. Well it was and I forgot how fast it gets rid of metal and with that a hole was made.



Left the top (on the bottom) as it will provide a nice lip to weld to.

The needle gunning and flipping it upside down certainly loosened things up.

The top and sides of the chassis are in good shape, the bottom is a bit crusty but still pretty solid apart from where it's been double skinned in this area. Bear in mind all of what can be seen at the top here is underneath the reinforcing plate above or below (confusing?).





The next challenge is to extract the sheet of steel. What I want is the second or third sheet in leaning against the wall but the first sheet comes in at 270kg as its 10mm thick. Should have stacked them the other way before I put a 2t mill infront of them.

 

[sako243]

Some hoovering has been done as well as blasting with the airline and I think I've got most of it out of this section of the chassis (there are cross-braces welded in and now it's upside down the brace is down the bottom and blocking stuff).

This is looking up inside the hole I've cut



My current thinking is to cut the reinforcing brace here as marked





Which will then expose that rotten bit of the original chassis rail which I can cut back to good metal. I'll then bend a piece that goes down inside the original cut and reforms the original chassis rail, patch the hole circled in the bottom picture and then weld the reinforcement back in (if it's in decent enough shape underneath). Feeling with my finger tips I think doing that dog leg over the plating will give me enough access to good metal behind otherwise I might have to cut the plate further back.

Sound like a plan? Anyone have any better suggestions?

 

[GRW]

Some hoovering has been done as well as blasting with the airline and I think I've got most of it out of this section of the chassis (there are cross-braces welded in and now it's upside down the brace is down the bottom and blocking stuff).

This is looking up inside the hole I've cut



My current thinking is to cut the reinforcing brace here as marked





Which will then expose that rotten bit of the original chassis rail which I can cut back to good metal. I'll then bend a piece that goes down inside the original cut and reforms the original chassis rail, patch the hole circled in the bottom picture and then weld the reinforcement back in (if it's in decent enough shape underneath). Feeling with my finger tips I think doing that dog leg over the plating will give me enough access to good metal behind otherwise I might have to cut the plate further back.

Sound like a plan? Anyone have any better suggestions?

Looks like a fair bit of tin weevil you've got there - but I guess on the plus side it's pretty meaty metal.
Reminds me of my antics welding up my crusty ole LDV Camper - I really was fighting a losing battle there.

 

[sako243]

Looks like a fair bit of tin weevil you've got there - but I guess on the plus side it's pretty meaty metal.
Reminds me of my antics welding up my crusty ole LDV Camper - I really was fighting a losing battle there.

I'm crossing my fingers that it's not horrendous. This is the worst bit here but I think fairly straightforward to make a repair section.

The ones near the rear spring hangers are going to be more annoying as I'll have to jig up some alignment thingies to keep everything where it should be.

 

[GRW]

I'm crossing my fingers that it's not horrendous. This is the worst bit here but I think fairly straightforward to make a repair section.

The ones near the rear spring hangers are going to be more annoying as I'll have to jig up some alignment thingies to keep everything where it should be.

I replaced (never done it before) the section of chassis between the spring hangers on the rear axle of the LDV.
I had box ends jacked up & supported - but cut-out & replaced one side of the U chassis, then the underside & other wall - trying to ensure it all stayed in line. I used 3mm steel plate, & part-scored it with an angle grinder to fold its top edge, then folded & re-welded the sections.
(Not for 1-second suggesting this is how it should be done - it's just how I thought it might work)

 

[sako243]

A bigger hole has been made... Cut the reinforcing bracket off and then cut out the bottom rail of the chassis.

Some more plasma action on the sheet of 2mm but before I could bend it I needed to reinstall some fingers in the bender after @fizzy took them out to do his trailer wheel arches.

That's better and folded 2mm nicely

So now there's going to be a lot of marking and nibbling away to make a nice fitting repair panel