Myles1970
Member
- Messages
- 926
- Location
- Monaghan, Ireland
- Thread starter Cosantoir
- Start date
Mr Roo
Member
- Messages
- 597
- Location
- Edinburgh
No wonder I always feel funny after working with angle...
Down at the car today and after I got part of the suspension off I decided to take a look at the driver side arch where it needs repair.
I felt pretty demotivated looking at this as to seems like there's a number of panels layed over one another and to top it off I've the engine mount that needs the engine out if If I want to take it off (although I'm thinking I could possibly drill it out from the top side and leave it in place)
It looks like I'll need to take most of the pannel(s) out to repair it properly.
I felt pretty demotivated looking at this as to seems like there's a number of panels layed over one another and to top it off I've the engine mount that needs the engine out if If I want to take it off (although I'm thinking I could possibly drill it out from the top side and leave it in place)
It looks like I'll need to take most of the pannel(s) out to repair it properly.
Pigeon_Droppings2
Member
- Messages
- 6,330
- Location
- london
We've all been there...what I tend to do is stick a sheet over the depressing bit and go do something else. Usually after a few days I've had time to formulate a plan and come to terms with it all.
I currently have the back of my project Figaro cut into bits...nice sheet over the top and all is well
.
I was wondering whether you could attack that from underneath?
I currently have the back of my project Figaro cut into bits...nice sheet over the top and all is well
.I was wondering whether you could attack that from underneath?
... Then when you've a plan in place, tackle it againUnderneath and taking out the first pannel might be the best course of action at lease with 1 panel out I can look at the top player as is.
Drill out the spots here and hope it pops off. From the under side this actually isn't in terrible shape and will give me the shape to follow for the top layer for whatever I manage to repair.
I also need to figure out if the panels are thicker as in 2 layers of 1mm or if there's a 1mm and a 2mm layer there or something
Drill out the spots here and hope it pops off. From the under side this actually isn't in terrible shape and will give me the shape to follow for the top layer for whatever I manage to repair.
I also need to figure out if the panels are thicker as in 2 layers of 1mm or if there's a 1mm and a 2mm layer there or something
Pigeon_Droppings2
Member
- Messages
- 6,330
- Location
- london
Jap cars tend to be really thin steel....where they need strength they just add more layers I find!
Even chassis members can be 1.2mm or 1.5mm!
I say go from underneath...what you may find is you can then work upwards towards the engine mount....and if you are lucky the mount can stay in place (held in by the chassis welds)....you can then use the mount as a guide to putting it back together.
Any chance you can cut a panel from a scrap car....might save you a lot of time...unless they all rot in the same places of course!
Even chassis members can be 1.2mm or 1.5mm!
I say go from underneath...what you may find is you can then work upwards towards the engine mount....and if you are lucky the mount can stay in place (held in by the chassis welds)....you can then use the mount as a guide to putting it back together.
Any chance you can cut a panel from a scrap car....might save you a lot of time...unless they all rot in the same places of course!
Pigeon_Droppings2
Member
- Messages
- 6,330
- Location
- london
What I do is get the cut panel and then dis-assemble it into separate panels where necessary....weld each layer back on independently.
Having original panels saves loads of fabrication time and you'll get a good fit vs trying to patch or make your own...making them can be fun though so depends how much you want to do yourself vs moving it along I guess.
If I'm patching multi layers what I do is cut/remove each layer separately making them smaller as I go through the layers....that way I can stagger the joins when I build the layers back up again.
I asked around a few owners last night and two of them had done this work.
First one seems to have been don't the way you suggest @Pigeon_Droppings2
And the second was a different concept. Not sure if it's better or lazy but I'll share her.
It looks like they both have taken out the engine mount so may be an engine out job.
Still I think if I could manage to take out that full panel from the bottom and it hopefully would allow me to cut out the damaged upper panel and see if there is bad corrosion between the two panels.
First one seems to have been don't the way you suggest @Pigeon_Droppings2
And the second was a different concept. Not sure if it's better or lazy but I'll share her.
It looks like they both have taken out the engine mount so may be an engine out job.
Still I think if I could manage to take out that full panel from the bottom and it hopefully would allow me to cut out the damaged upper panel and see if there is bad corrosion between the two panels.
So thinking maybe start back to front with repairs and my first big job would be this rear side member both are shot
They are made from a U shaped piece with a flange and a second inserted in some areas to make a box.
I'm thinking as these can't be got anymore that a bit of box with flanges welded on would be the best bet. And I don't see a world where I'd manage to get that slight taper to the side into the material either.
Ive the option of going from the bottom and cutting out the spots and putting it up to the boot floor and this sounds relatively easy.
Or is there a reason why I'd want to go from the top?
Also any of the Irish crew know where sells 1.5mm channel or box?
They are made from a U shaped piece with a flange and a second inserted in some areas to make a box.
I'm thinking as these can't be got anymore that a bit of box with flanges welded on would be the best bet. And I don't see a world where I'd manage to get that slight taper to the side into the material either.
Ive the option of going from the bottom and cutting out the spots and putting it up to the boot floor and this sounds relatively easy.
Or is there a reason why I'd want to go from the top?
Also any of the Irish crew know where sells 1.5mm channel or box?
Myles1970
Member
- Messages
- 926
- Location
- Monaghan, Ireland
Yea that video shows similarities of how the body repair manual shows to tackle the repair but lifting the boot floor okay yea but taking out the back panel isn't one I love the idea of.
I think you could be right with CAD giving that the bottom of the panel seems to be okay it would allow me some strength to hold everything in place while I cut out and replaced the sides of the side member.
I think you could be right with CAD giving that the bottom of the panel seems to be okay it would allow me some strength to hold everything in place while I cut out and replaced the sides of the side member.
Today I started stripping down the control arm to bare parts.
Started off by drilling out and tapping the two bolts that sheered what I was taking the handover cable bracket off.
Good as new,
Next split out the hub and get my hands on the disintegrating dust shield.
A little elbow grease later
The dust shields entire middle section was rotten and had just 2 tabs barley holding it in
And guess what it's 0.8mm, rusted to bits it was a right pain to do if I blew through it took lots of chasing to repair.
I didn't get to finish but I've welded the new centre into place and next I'll tidy up the welds and the drill my mounting holes and cut out that inside circle For the hub.
Finally I ordered an electric sprayer today form Amazon so hoping to be done and have everything cleaned down and primed with epoxy before it arrives.
Although I need to figure out where I can buy some 2K topcoat without buying loads of paint as I just want to do the wishbones and trailing arms
Started off by drilling out and tapping the two bolts that sheered what I was taking the handover cable bracket off.
Good as new,
Next split out the hub and get my hands on the disintegrating dust shield.
A little elbow grease later
The dust shields entire middle section was rotten and had just 2 tabs barley holding it in
And guess what it's 0.8mm, rusted to bits it was a right pain to do if I blew through it took lots of chasing to repair.
I didn't get to finish but I've welded the new centre into place and next I'll tidy up the welds and the drill my mounting holes and cut out that inside circle For the hub.
Finally I ordered an electric sprayer today form Amazon so hoping to be done and have everything cleaned down and primed with epoxy before it arrives.
Although I need to figure out where I can buy some 2K topcoat without buying loads of paint as I just want to do the wishbones and trailing arms
Okay now it looks like a thing...
I still have some work to do with this break dust cover but I've a question.
What do I do about the bottom edges of the shield where they have rotten away? I've half a mind to just cut down the side and just remove the bad jagged material and add a little lip to give it some strength. As the curve with a lip folded back over the curve in the opposite direction will be fierce hard to do
I still have some work to do with this break dust cover but I've a question.
What do I do about the bottom edges of the shield where they have rotten away? I've half a mind to just cut down the side and just remove the bad jagged material and add a little lip to give it some strength. As the curve with a lip folded back over the curve in the opposite direction will be fierce hard to do
Myles1970
Member
- Messages
- 926
- Location
- Monaghan, Ireland
....it might not be that hard to do...as it's quite a short piece, worth a try anyway....I'd make it straight first getting the lip as close as possible, then try adding a curve afterwards... At the end of the day it's a brake dust shield, how perfect do you want it?
Anyway you're doing great, obviously not a complete novice
Anyway you're doing great, obviously not a complete novice
Dcal
Member
- Messages
- 4,049
- Location
- Antrim Northern Ireland
I'd have a go at making a form out of wood for that, or if you have any scrap steel kicking about, grind and shape a lump of steel for the form.
you can then clamp and hammer the metal into shape.
Advantage of steel is you will get better, crisper lines and shapes and you can hold it to the steel form with tack welds.
Either would work. Considering what it's for and it's good fun having a go.
See link below for a steel form I made for a "tricky" shape
25 year old Alfa 75 back from the brink (hopefully)
The two doors on the PS looked in pretty good shape, till I stripped all the trim off. Of course then there were a couple of scabby bits. Tackled the rear door, window section first. The patches in the bottom of the doors were straight forward and luckily the rot didn't go into the...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
So woke up this morning read the replies and F it how am I gonna learn if I don't try and there's no way I'm gonna have the skill of confidence to tackle some of the bigger more structural pieces that will need to be done well.
Started off with this
Then using a Dolly that happened to be almost the exact same curvature I bent the material around it
Folding not took two attempts but over all I was happy with how it turned out.
Next up the other side tried this with two pieces to see if it would be any easier and actually I much prefered the one piece method.
I also blew a hole in the material and really struggled to repair it. I REALLY NEED SLME COPPER PIPE
Nobody needs to see the terrible job (in fairness it wasn't too bad but I'd say it was about a 20x10 section by the time I was done.
In other news....
NEW TOY
Started off with this
Then using a Dolly that happened to be almost the exact same curvature I bent the material around it
Folding not took two attempts but over all I was happy with how it turned out.
Next up the other side tried this with two pieces to see if it would be any easier and actually I much prefered the one piece method.
I also blew a hole in the material and really struggled to repair it. I REALLY NEED SLME COPPER PIPE
Nobody needs to see the terrible job (in fairness it wasn't too bad but I'd say it was about a 20x10 section by the time I was done.
In other news....
NEW TOY
