pabloarris
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That just looks So right, awesome work as usual!
- Thread starter langy
- Start date
langy
langys rodshop
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langy
langys rodshop
- Messages
- 6,095
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- London
Only got 5hrs in today as been sorting out customers, nice to see you Paul 
Nothing spectacular to show i'm afraid as been correcting previous owners butchery on the returns, why someone would hack all the returns so badly is beyond me 
Anyway I used a steel rule to give an idea of how it should be, then keyed the glass up and backed it with a bit of sheet stainless and built up with 4 layers of mat & resin, I gave it a squirt of primer to get a better look and they came out alright
.
Nothing spectacular to show i'm afraid as been correcting previous owners butchery on the returns, why someone would hack all the returns so badly is beyond me Anyway I used a steel rule to give an idea of how it should be, then keyed the glass up and backed it with a bit of sheet stainless and built up with 4 layers of mat & resin, I gave it a squirt of primer to get a better look and they came out alright
.
langy
langys rodshop
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- 6,095
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Cheers Pete, the relief valve is for removing any built up pressure in the gear case as its pretty well sealed.
langy
langys rodshop
- Messages
- 6,095
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- London
You just push it after a bit of vigorous use, air in not so bad, air out tends to take oil with it not so good
langy
langys rodshop
- Messages
- 6,095
- Location
- London
Bit more done over the Easter weekend, my Ebay 7" fan for the heater turned up but wasn't 7"
I thought the fan was gonna be an easy fix as it was 7" and the hole in the heater 7.125" , Solution was to bin the housing and carefully trim 1/4" off each fan blade.
Next I needed a new fan housing, this was made in some aluminium sheet I had hanging around. Tried it out and it blows really good
Next I finally got around to fitting the pickup bed skirting panels I had made ages ago.
Following on from the door jam repair I added a steel upright and tied it into the lock striker for support, thiswill be further tied into the cage hoop.
While I was at the door jamb I added some strips of ply for attaching the headliner when the time comes, this was bonded in with some CT1 adhesieve sealant.
Next little problem to solve was the air filter, as I had changed to a 4 barrel things had changed and space is getting tight, looked around for a 9" diameter filter but nothing suitable so decided to make one, looked for some 1/4" aluminium plate but the scrap bin was empty so popped over to my mate Brians shop and found a bit, had a few holes in it already but these can be welded up easily and it was painted a rather fetching shade of green.
Anyway the plasma was struck up and 2 discs were cut out.
Heres the base plate after a bit of lathe work.
.
I thought the fan was gonna be an easy fix as it was 7" and the hole in the heater 7.125" , Solution was to bin the housing and carefully trim 1/4" off each fan blade.
Next I needed a new fan housing, this was made in some aluminium sheet I had hanging around. Tried it out and it blows really good
Next I finally got around to fitting the pickup bed skirting panels I had made ages ago.
Following on from the door jam repair I added a steel upright and tied it into the lock striker for support, thiswill be further tied into the cage hoop.
While I was at the door jamb I added some strips of ply for attaching the headliner when the time comes, this was bonded in with some CT1 adhesieve sealant.
Next little problem to solve was the air filter, as I had changed to a 4 barrel things had changed and space is getting tight, looked around for a 9" diameter filter but nothing suitable so decided to make one, looked for some 1/4" aluminium plate but the scrap bin was empty so popped over to my mate Brians shop and found a bit, had a few holes in it already but these can be welded up easily and it was painted a rather fetching shade of green.
Anyway the plasma was struck up and 2 discs were cut out.
Heres the base plate after a bit of lathe work.
.
langy
langys rodshop
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- 6,095
- Location
- London
Got the air filter finished last night, as I said earlier due to the carb change things had got very tight !!! We are talking every 1/8" counted.
Got the base spun up on the lathe, then the 5.125" hole was put in on the faceplate as the hole is off centre to keep as much of it as possible inside the scoop opening. A 3/8" thick ring was formed around a bit of 5" tube and welded to the base to lift it slightly for clearence, not sure what sort of aluminium it was but it turned real nasty like toffee and welded horribly as well, it would weld nice and then not so !!!
There was no room on top for a securing nut thingy so it had to be a countersunk bolt, this screws into a piece of hex bar on top of the regular 1/4" unc stud.
Here it is finished, you can see its a little tight on space but will get a nice flow of air, next job is to extend the front of the scoop slightly.
While I was there is turned a nose on each carb stud to help putting the nuts on easier.
.
Got the base spun up on the lathe, then the 5.125" hole was put in on the faceplate as the hole is off centre to keep as much of it as possible inside the scoop opening. A 3/8" thick ring was formed around a bit of 5" tube and welded to the base to lift it slightly for clearence, not sure what sort of aluminium it was but it turned real nasty like toffee and welded horribly as well, it would weld nice and then not so !!!
There was no room on top for a securing nut thingy so it had to be a countersunk bolt, this screws into a piece of hex bar on top of the regular 1/4" unc stud.
Here it is finished, you can see its a little tight on space but will get a nice flow of air, next job is to extend the front of the scoop slightly.
While I was there is turned a nose on each carb stud to help putting the nuts on easier.
.
langy
langys rodshop
- Messages
- 6,095
- Location
- London
Are you sure that carb is ready for a blower? it looks rather scared like it's just heard a hurricane warning ...
Your not the first to mention that
langy
langys rodshop
- Messages
- 6,095
- Location
- London
Bit more progress today, mostly been repairing fibreglass but while i'm glassing up I generally plan other things in my head, one of these was where to pu the boost gauge where it would be easily seen, I put the one in my Coupe near the column but its not easily seen so a small mistake, anyway I thought what screams street racer ??? Yep scuttle mounted gauges !!!
I already had a Stewart Warner 2.062" gauge so looked around for a mounting cup but couldn't find anything suitable, didn't want chrome or black, I started to make one out of a piece of stainless tube but eve with a brushed finish it didn't look correct so I started to make up from some aluminium bits from the scrap bin.
After a bit of lathe work I welded the bits together and blended & fettled the welds.
Its held in place with 3 small studs, 2 holes were drilled through the base so the lighting wires and boost tube are not seen. It will get vapour blasted and have a cast appearance.
.
I already had a Stewart Warner 2.062" gauge so looked around for a mounting cup but couldn't find anything suitable, didn't want chrome or black, I started to make one out of a piece of stainless tube but eve with a brushed finish it didn't look correct so I started to make up from some aluminium bits from the scrap bin.
After a bit of lathe work I welded the bits together and blended & fettled the welds.
Its held in place with 3 small studs, 2 holes were drilled through the base so the lighting wires and boost tube are not seen. It will get vapour blasted and have a cast appearance.
.
langy
langys rodshop
- Messages
- 6,095
- Location
- London
Indeed, it allows you to make stuff you can't do with Mig
langy
langys rodshop
- Messages
- 6,095
- Location
- London
Hahaha
langy
langys rodshop
- Messages
- 6,095
- Location
- London
