Oh no not another Willys Gasser build, this time a Willys shop truck

  1. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    Some people aked why my latest project wasn't here, so here it is, hope you enjoy the ride along as it progresses.

    Well now my Coupe is up and running and just needs final tuning and put away for the winter months I decided to start my Willys gasser shop truck project, I've been wanting to do a shop truck for ages as i'm fed up driving to the big shows in my daily estate loaded up with parts and the combi camp trailer on the back, plus it can double up as a tow car for my Gasser coupe [​IMG]

    I picked up a complete 1943 Austin 16 car that someone had started to restore off Ebay for £500, came with a V5 too [​IMG] the bits i didn't need were sold off.
    At this point I should thank Dusty Laugher who picked it up for me from North Wales, A very reliable and professional service. thanks mate [​IMG]

    The Austin frame is just about perfect for a Willys as its a 104" wheelbase (same as a Willys) Its also already boxed so is very stiff torsionally, It also looks great with its riveted construction and tidy x members. Its slightly less heavy duty than the FX3 frame I used on the coupe but still more than good enough.
    I wasn't sure what expect having not seen the frame but was more than pleased when it arrived, it only has a tiny bit of surface rust here and there and will be perfect after media blasting.

    Heres a few pics


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    I will be using the complete front axle & springs as its remarkably similar to a Willys axle and its all in very good condition, the spindles will have to go though and be replaced with 37-41 early ford jobbies, these will mount 56 Ford F100 drum brakes.
    I also hope to keep the lever arm dampers as they look cool and are in good working order, I will strip them to check and upgrade them with a thicker oil. The arms need a clean up but I think they will look and work great.
    Steering will be good old faithful Vega box setup as cross steer, column, tierod & draglink will be home made.
    Brakes will be F100 master operated by swinging Ansen pedal box.



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    Rear suspension/axle will be either a 8" or 9", I have both but havn't made my mind up which to use yet, seems a waste to use a 9" on a shop truck when the 8" will be fine,
    Rear spring will be a 40 Ford transverse leaf spring I have hanging around, located by a pair of square tube ladder bars triangulated and a pair of tube shocks and a panhard rod.
    Rear brakes will be 11" Ford drums.

    The case in the middle looks favourite to be used



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    I'm gonna be using a 1959 Ford Y block for the motor, I bought this about 8 years ago for £120 but sold the gearbox for £100 so it owes me nothing really, over the years i've picked up some goodies for it a i've seen them at various swapmeets and Ebay.
    Its a 59 292ci from a truck so has a forged crank as standard and I have added Forged performance rods, Wisco forged pistons, gas flowed G spec heads, a Isky cam, post 57 Dizzy, 3 x 2 94's on a fairly rare Fenton intake, An aluminium timing cover, an aluminium water pump and the final touch a pair of polished original Thunderbird valve covers.



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    Transmission is a Art Carr C4 i picked up for £50 but needs a slight refreshing, this is bolted on with a Flat O Products adaptor kit.



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    Body will be GRP and hopefully be done soon, Bed will be homemade and may possibly be made in either aluminium or steel depending on costs of materials.

    Thats about it so far folks
     
  2. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    Oops nearly forgot my favourite bit

    Wheels are a set of 4 x 15 & 10 x 15 Radir 5 spokes I picked up
    They will have 590 x 15 and 30 x 10 x 15 piecrusts on them.




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  3. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    Location:
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    Well the first part of the jigsaw puzzle is made [​IMG] As the front is already rolling it made sense to get the rear to do the same and it makes it easier to move, so last few evenings have been spent making a pair of ladder bars, on gasser cars I like the square tube type so thats what I made up, material is 1" x 1/8" wall square tube, the threaded ends are 1" solid square bar. Clevis joints are stainless 5/8" UNF thread with 3/8" hole, front mounts are stainless urethane joints 5/8" UNF thread 1/2" hole. The bars are 47" long.

    First job was to plasma cut some axle brackets out of 3/8" plate.


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    Next the square bar was set in a 4 jaw on the lathe to turn a round end so it could be held for drilling and tapping, then 6 ends made up.



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    Next the tube was cut to the required length and the threaded ends welded into the ends, holes were drilled in the ends of the tube and the ends were also plug welded into place.



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    The square bar has sharper corners than the tube so everything was ground smooth to match up.



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    Everything was then finish welded and I gave them a couple of coats of Rust-oleum brown primer, this primer is great stuff and dries fast and gives a nice finish, I searched everywhere in the UK for it but couldn't find it so became a dealer for it and now stock it, its way better than any aerosol primer i've used from here.

    I really like the colour, Hmmm [​IMG]



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    Next job is to fit the brackets to the rear axle and get it all mounted.
     
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  4. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    I had great intentions of getting so much done today but alas only a very small portion got done [​IMG]
    Anyway some progress is better than none I guess [​IMG] First job was to make up some axle brackets to mount the spring, I copied the dimensions off a Speedway bracket but changed the shape to suit what I wanted.
    I made a plywood template (which I keep) and the trusty plasma was sparked up and 2 shapes were cut out of 3/8" plate steel, the plasma leaves a slight ragged edge on 3/8" but that was soon cleaned up with a flap disc in an angle grinder, a piece of tube to take the shackle bushes was welded on and a few lightening holes were put in for aesthetics and thats as far as i got [​IMG]


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    A quick squirt of rust-oleum to stop them flash rusting



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  5. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    Last few evenings have been checking dimensions of the 16 frame and making up a rear spring crossmember. Hopefully get it tacked into the frame saturday morning.
    For those that are interested the Crossmember is 3" x 1.5" x 1/8" box section, the spring clamp plates are 1/4" BMS, they were cut out with a plasma and sanded to shape.



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  6. brewdexta

    brewdexta Member

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    3,676
    Yorkshire
    Looking forward to the build, I was getting withdrawal symptoms :)
     
  7. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    The rearend is ready to put in place so decided to sort out the front F100 hubs as they are old Ford 5.5" x 5 and my wheels are Jag/Chevy, redrilled the stud pattern to 4.75" x 5 with a 14.4mm drill and then reamed out for the stud lead to 15.3mm, thought I would clean up the hubs in the lathe as its quicker, just a few very light cuts to clean up but I was surprised how far out of bonk the faces were, they are all spot on now.



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    I really like the look of the old lever arm shocks and they work fine so will keep them and adapt the linkages, the arms however were pretty ugly things (not as ugly as Tiki Des but pretty awful) so they received a bit of attention from Mr cutting disc & Mr flap wheel, look a lot sleeker now [​IMG] the rubber bushes were shot so turned up some new poly bushes on the lathe.



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  8. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    Location:
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    Got a few hours in last night and managed to modify the 37-41 spindles to accept the F100 front drums, they need 2 small mods the first being a bit of grinding to clear the back of the wheel cylinders, I will let the pics do the talking.


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    The 2nd modification is to allow the bearings to fit, on the early ford spindle there is a large radius fillet where the bearing sits, this needs reducing in a lathe so the bearing can sit flush.



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    The spindle is chucked in the lathe and a revolving centre inserted in the machined centre on the back, then the radius is reduced to a small rad.



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    Assembled



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    All the parts I don't need at the moment will now go for media blasting and black powder coat.

    Hopefully tomorrow I will drill the axle and adapt the spindles, looks pretty straight forward but we will see [​IMG]

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  9. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    Well I was glad to knock off a bit earlier today, been cutting, grinding & sanding the front axle for the last 6 hours !!! Now covered in black dust, started off bad this morning when I tried to remove the old brakes and spindles, kingpins were rusted in solid, enter Mr 9" grinder with cutting wheel fitted [​IMG] it made short work of the spindles & brakes, had to pop to my mates and press the remaining bits of kingpin out.

    Next I set about cutting off all the lumps and bumps I didn't need, there were a fair few, a few holes were tigged up and then the mammoth sanding started !!!

    Heres what I started with



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    Heres how it looks now, next job is to set it up on the mill and bore out the kingpin hole as its bigger than the early ford so needs to be sleeved and reamed, then off to be media blasted as its easier than trying to clean out the middle of the I beam.



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  10. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    Location:
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    Well today was gonna be a normal working day but due to the fact that the whole country appears to have shut down I thought I would do the same [​IMG]
    Tried to get stuff from 4 different suppliers this morning and all closed till Jan 6th !!! No wonder the country is in a state [​IMG]

    Anyway popped home and picked up the front axle and went to my mates engineering shop, hooray still there and beavering away [​IMG] the bridgeport was busy today so we used the Condor mill, lovely old bit of kit. Brians got 10 mills so we was spoilt for choice !!!

    First job was how to hold the axle, Brian found a lump of I beam that fitted perfectly across the spring pads so we drilled holes and bolted the axle to the i beam, then the i beam was clamped down to the bed of the mill. next we laid over the head to 9.5 degrees (spindles are 9 but I want to run 0.5 negative) next the head was laid over in the other axis 4 degrees as the axle has 4 degrees of castor built in, next a suitable cutter was selected and the ends bored out.



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    Next we put in a fly cutter and straightened up the kingpin faces to the bore as the original bore was 7 degrees and the new spindles are 9 degree.



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    Next 2 sleeves were spun up in the lathe and press fit into the kingpin bosses.



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    These were then reamed to 0.812" to produce a nice snug fit for the kingpins.



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    Fitted up with the hubs and viola we have a front axle assembly [​IMG]



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  11. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    Location:
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    Well with xmas finally done and dusted i can get back into the workshop, heaven !!! [​IMG]
    I got straight back onto the drilling of the axle that I had already started, all went well but I came across 1 hole that just won't drill no matter what I try !!! Its like a hard vein in the steel, I tried a brand new milling cutter but it just dulled the cutting edges, had it on the last one of these axles but managed to get all the holes done, I'm gonna pop to the machine shop tomorrow and see if my mate Brian has something to do the last hole.



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    This is the bit that won't drill



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  12. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    Well the machine shop is shut today so the hole in the axle will have to wait, I've being getting bits and pieces made so when a bit of decent weather comes by I can attack this with a vengeance and get a rolling frame together in a day, Today i made up the firewall mounted brake pedal assembly.

    Its all 1/4" BMS, could of got away with 1/8" but it just doesnt have the look.

    Heres the main bracket



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    Next spun up a phosphor bronze bush for the pedal pivot. Pedal is 1/4" BMS but with a 1/8" BMS stiffener, makes it into an I beam



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    Heres the finished assembly, had to use the master cylinder of my 26T project as the one I ordered hasn't arrived yet.



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  13. octo0072000

    octo0072000 Member

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    saw this steve thought of you all steel rebody to make a fifth wheel hauler

     
  14. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    Dead cool isn't it !!! I did a 47 Chevy ramp truck very similair about 20 years ago.
     
  15. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    In between working today i've been thinking about engine mounts, I really like the look of a front Hurst style mount, After I finished I hacked about a bit of plywood to get a rough shape, I picked up off the lower 4 timing cover bolts, they are 3/8", yes I know the centre hole is 1/4" off, I thought it was central between the 4 holes, it isn't, its 1/4" off [​IMG]

    I think I may have it, next transfer to metal [​IMG]



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  16. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    6,099
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    Well with Xmas & New Year out of the way normal sevice is resumed [​IMG]

    The ply template was used as a guide for the plasma cutter, the edges were dressed and the various holes drilled, To ensure the centre hole was actually in the centre this time I turned up a piece of aluminium bar to act as a mandrel and drilled through the holes in the timing case and spotted the holes. To make it easier to remove a piece was cut out and replaced with a piece that bolts in place.



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    Next the chassis mounts were made up for the early ford style mounts, someone asked how the plate was bent around the outside, I just tack it in place and then just smack it around a piece of tube with a rawhide mallet and tack weld as I go, then finish weld inside & out and then linish smooth.



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    Heres the finished mount ready to weld to the frame.



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  17. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    Only got a few hours in the shop last night as had to pay a visit to the Osteopath at 4pm [​IMG], came back but felt like I had been in a bar fight !!! I'm sure its done me some good though [​IMG]

    Anyway I tried to save the original front spring U bolts but the threads were knackered so found some stainless U bolts but they were slightly too short, solved the problem by turning up some barrel nuts.



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    Next job was to make up a bolt in front ladder bar mount, on the 16 chassis there are 2 chassis legs going back from the centre section, they are riveted in place so my plan is to drill out some of the rivets and use them to hold the plate in place, I will re rivet later.
    First I made up the brackets for the front mount, they other side of the bracket will be the chassis leg.



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    Started to make up the main base plate in 3/16" steel but back started to seize up a bit so retired for the evening.



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  18. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    Not got as much done as I would of liked today as had lots of customers popping in, first person to call in was Allan (53pop) but he came in handy as I needed someone to hold the ladder bars while I marked the base plate, thanks Al.

    Thought I would post a pic of the frame centre section so it all makes sense.



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    Once I had a guideline it was back to the workshop to weld the brackets in place, the only piece of steel plate I had the right size was black so I expected to encounter weld problems, even after cleaning the black off it still don't tig weld that nicely for some reason ? the BMS is much nicer stuff.
    First job was to get a 3" hole in the plate, a holesaw quickly did this job, next a piece of tube was spun to size in the lathe and welded into the hole with 9/16" sticking out to match the return I had planned, then the brackets were welded in place.



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    Next I added a return at the rear edge to stiffen the plate.



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    Here the ladder bars are temporarily bolted in place, they are 36" apart on the axle casing.



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    All I need now is one fine day and I should have a rolling frame with the motor mounted [​IMG]

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  19. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    Location:
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    Well finally got the last hole in the axle sorted, It still didn't drill nicely and no matter what we tried it went off slightly, there seems to be a rock hard vein running through the steel, I've decided to live with it, nobody will ever notice [​IMG]



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    Had a slice of good fortune at the weekend as found my 56" wide rear axle casing wasn't gonna be wide enough with my 10" wide rear wheels and I would need a 58" case, Well I had ordered a new case from Curries for a customer but it had got dented slightly during shipping, Curries sent a replacement and told me to keep the old one, a couple of hours with a big ****ing hammer and some heat saw it all straight again and its 58" wide [​IMG]



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    I had a few sets of Strange axles hanging around that Strange had delivered the wrong size (don't ask, its not unusual [​IMG]) Armed with my trusty tape measure I found a pair that needed 1/2" trimming off the ends and they would slide into my case perfectly [​IMG]



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    Also found a 32 Ford aluminium radiator in my stash, its setup for a Chevy but I can adapt it to suit the ford motor easily, should keep the old Y block nice and cool.



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  20. langy

    langy langys rodshop

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    6,099
    Location:
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    A dry sunny day forecast for tomorrow so decided to drag the frame out of storage and get it rolling tomorrow, Yes its dark & raining here but couldn't resist drilling out the rivets and removing a small part of the centre section and bolting in the front ladder bar mount, the bolts are button heads reprofiled to resemble rivets and the nut side was spun in the lathe, once tightened down I will fill the heads with weld and fuse weld the nut in place. Looks more in keeping with the rest of the frame.



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