Newbie now with TIG.

[dazza]

Shame you're not in the UK as loads of people would be willing to give you some pointers no doubt. You're definitely going about it the right way though, getting the beads on plate nailed is so important.

Yep its a pity but getting some great help on here.

Do you have any preflow setup on your machine? I think it's the first dial?

Edit: That actually looks to be start amperage in % upon close inspection.

I think preflow is set to 0.2 seconds and i cant change it. Not sure on what the start amperage does.

 

[dazza]

I don't have a pedal yet, using the switch and not using the up slope.

Manual attached.

 

[dazza]

@brockenhammer any ideas on the pre flow internal adjustment?

 

[dazza]

I think i did a little better today.

160a
-15
90hz

Still cant see the pool at the start, i know i keep coming back to my scrap piece but i could see everything so much clearer (maybe because it was not shiny). After the initial run with the sharp tungsten, i struggled to get an arc on certain areas of the plate?? I removed the plastic and wiped with acetone.

Edit. Think all of my problems are down to the arc length.

 

[dazza]

Did a bit more practising, i can get an arc if the tungsten is freshly ground (flat) if not i may or may not get an arc. At first i put a point on them but they rounded off (shortened) increased the arc length.

This is with -12 balance, 90hz @ 160amps.

I know they are bad but i started these better than the others.

 

[brockenhammer]

@brockenhammer any ideas on the pre flow internal adjustment?

Hi Darren,
I have no idea how to change that.
On my machine I never modified it, but 0,2sec. should be fine.
Before I start welding after a longer period, I touch the pedal for a little moment to make shure the gashose in the torch is full of argon, and no oxygen is left in there.
Kai

 

[Richard.]

Hi Darren,
I have no idea how to change that.
On my machine I never modified it, but 0,2sec. should be fine.
Before I start welding after a longer period, I touch the pedal for a little moment to make shure the gashose in the torch is full of argon, and no oxygen is left in there.
Kai

That's sound advice and that's exactly what I would do to. My machine has pre flow setting and I like 1 second before the arc starts.
I'd say you might be having a drop of hf leakage. Is the hf strong. Does it start well in lift arc Tig. I'd try that next to rule out all other potential things. If it does turn out to be hf try swapping the torch. Torches cause this problem more than most things.

 

[dazza]

It starts well on steel and the scrap bit of aluminium which is really grubby just the new stuff that its struggling on. Its probably me contaminating the tungsten every time i do a run so on the next run it will not start up. If i grind the tungsten flat it will start no problem. Should a 1.6mm tungsten be flat/tapered. Is a 1.6mm tungsten ok for 4mm?

 

[Richard.]

It starts well on steel and the scrap bit of aluminium which is really grubby just the new stuff that its struggling on. Its probably me contaminating the tungsten every time i do a run so on the next run it will not start up. If i grind the tungsten flat it will start no problem. Should a 1.6mm tungsten be flat/tapered. Is a 1.6mm tungsten ok for 4mm?

What's it like on the new Alu with a sharp tungsten.
I still think you should have a crack at lift. Hf sounds the issue to me.

 

[dazza]

What's it like on the new Alu with a sharp tungsten.
I still think you should have a crack at lift. Hf sounds the issue to me.

It starts fine with a point, but the point quickly disappears and the tungsten is flush with the lens.

Should i be able to start with a balled tungsten after my first run?

I've ordered a couple of lenses so i can rig up a camera, then we can really see what i'm doing wrong.

 

[Richard.]

Should i be able to start with a balled tungsten after my first run?

Yes if the hf is strong enough. This is why I suggest you try out some lift with your balled electrode. If that strikes every time you have a weak hf. The Fronius had a weak hf which I made better but not great by changing a few settings but then I swapped torches and the difference was night and day.

 

[dazza]

Yes if the hf is strong enough. This is why I suggest you try out some lift with your balled electrode. If that strikes every time you have a weak hf. The Fronius had a weak hf which I made better but not great by changing a few settings but then I swapped torches and the difference was night and day.

I will give it a go, i did manage to strike up with the balled electrode if i got it warm on the scrap piece first. At one stage i was worried i broke the machine when cleaning but most problems i'm having are due to the arc length, the other problem is balling up the filler as its to close to the arc or i move it out of the gas to stop it balling up and it makes a mess on the next dab.

 

[dazza]

This is where i got the aluminium from any one else bought from here?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271366318...49&var=570251645108&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Richard.]

This is where i got the aluminium from any one else bought from here?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271366318089?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=570251645108&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

There is nothing wrong with the Alu. It's bearing no effect on your machines ability to strike.
You can strike up on any conductive material it doesn't need to be a certain Alu grade. Like I said it will strike up in AC on steel if you wanted it too.
I don't think the arc length is effecting your strike up either. My hf will jump an inch gap so yours shouldn't have an issue jumping a few MM providing it's working properly.
By the way your tungstens are balling waaaaaaay too much. I wrote a section on balance and tungsten stability in the AC guide.
Either turn the balance more towards the EN side of things or step up on tungsten size. That heavy uneven balling will effect the accuracy of where the hf will want to strike and could also cause you striking problems. If it strikes every time hot or cold on DC then your balling is causing you trouble.
Now you have a feature on that machine. Top right knob.

View attachment 95145

What the heck does that mean???

@Jim Davey

Remember this quote from Hugh about that feature on your machine.
Now is a good time to take it out of zero bud.
I believe this puts ep loading on your electrode at strike up. If that's right what it does is give it a split second of electrode preheat if you like.
This may answer your strike up issues. Turn it up and have a go.

 

[dazza]

By the way your tungstens are balling waaaaaaay too much. I wrote a section on balance and tungsten stability in the AC guide.
Either turn the balance more towards the EN side of things or step up on tungsten size. That heavy uneven balling will effect the accuracy of where the hf will want to strike and could also cause you striking problems. If it strikes every time hot or cold on DC then your balling is causing you trouble.
Now you have a feature on that machine. Top right knob.

Thanks again Richard i've read that part of the guide over and over, you have some examples.

1 is at 70% dc- on the balance
2 is at 60% dc- on the balance
3 is at 50% dc- on the balance.

How do these line up with the +30/-30 on my machine?

70% = -20
60% = -10
50% = 0

Remember this quote from Hugh about that feature on your machine.
Now is a good time to take it out of zero bud.
I believe this puts ep loading on your electrode at strike up. If that's right what it does is give it a split second of electrode preheat if you like.
This may answer your strike up issues. Turn it up and have a go.

I will give that a go next time.

The plan today was to go through all the balance settings and see whats what but as usual i got side tracked with it not striking.

 

[Richard.]

Thanks again Richard i've read that part of the guide over and over, you have some examples.

1 is at 70% dc- on the balance
2 is at 60% dc- on the balance
3 is at 50% dc- on the balance.

How do these line up with the +30/-30 on my machine?

70% = -20
60% = -10
50% = 0



I will give that a go next time.

The plan today was to go through all the balance settings and see whats what but as usual i got side tracked with it not striking.

It's a very good question.
I would say what you have written there about the balance settings to be correct and on that basis id be sitting it at -15 and pretty much leaving it alone.

I'm almost convinced now that the striking problem is due to that knob been on zero.
It makes sense because
It's only in AC
It's only when the tungsten is cold and it's only when it's balled.
I'd turn it up to half way and with a cold balled electrode see if you notice a huge difference in its ability to strike.

 

[dazza]

It's a very good question.
I would say what you have written there about the balance settings to be correct and on that basis id be sitting it at -15 and pretty much leaving it alone.

I'm almost convinced now that the striking problem is due to that knob been on zero.
It makes sense because
It's only in AC
It's only when the tungsten is cold and it's only when it's balled.
I'd turn it up to half way and with a cold balled electrode see if you notice a huge difference in its ability to strike.

Will give it a go.. I have a good collection of balled tungstens to try .