Morris 8 Engine Build

  1. indy4x

    indy4x Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,428
    Location:
    Pontypool, South Wales. UK
    IIRC the Minor engine bay was originally designed for a flat four but BMC didn't have the money to develop one
     
  2. The_Yellow_Ardvark

    The_Yellow_Ardvark If in doubt ask. Same rules for everyone

    Messages:
    10,743
    Location:
    A Padded Cell.
    There was a flat 4 VW engine Moggy at Hayes years ago.
    If I recall it was part of the development of the Moggy. But the idea of using a German engine upset a few(lots) of people.
     
  3. octo0072000

    octo0072000 Member

    Messages:
    5,205
    Location:
    south yorks
    He He scooby powered moggie comes to mind
     
    zx9, slim_boy_fat and indy4x like this.
  4. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Don't forget the Fiat twin cam conversions either.
     
  5. octo0072000

    octo0072000 Member

    Messages:
    5,205
    Location:
    south yorks
    bit hard to get hold of now the old fiat 124 st and 125 engines scooby ae plentiful at the mo
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  6. minimutly Member

    Messages:
    358
    Location:
    Pembrokeshire Wales
    I may be asking you for advice - thanks!
     
  7. Oh, I thought it was for the Rover V8!:whistle:
     
  8. RWD3M Member

    Messages:
    379
    Location:
    Wiltshire, UK
    So, getting back on topic, I have now got all the parts I need to continue with the build so am hoping to get started on it this weekend. The first thing I'll need to do is to shorten all the lower Oil Control rings as the pistons I have all have a locating lug in the bottom groove. I need to remove about 4mm from the overall length of each one so I'll get the disc cutter out on Saturday morning and make a start.

    Just kidding, tiny files and a (very) soft faced vice will be the order of the day!

    I'll start getting some pics up at the weekend.
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  9. RWD3M Member

    Messages:
    379
    Location:
    Wiltshire, UK
    Hi all,

    Well I haven't managed to make much progress this weekend however the block is now painted and the redundant dipstick and oil filler holes have been plugged.

    20190818_121418.jpg

    And the new dipstick hole drilled (thanks for the advice yesterday BTW).

    20190818_121906.jpg

    I've gapped one of the oil control rings but still have the rest to do. It's quite a slow process as I don't wish to break a ring. The one I've done needed about .150" filling off.

    You might just be able to see the locating pin in the bottom groove.

    20190818_122146.jpg

    This has left me with a bit of a teaser and that's how to get the ring compressor on it whilst lining up the gap with the pin!

    I did discover another problem recently when I found that the distributor that I have (for an older engine) was too large to fit the later block. It seems that the hole in the block was made smaller to allow a bit more material around an enlarged waterway. Fortunately all it required was a replacement distributor drive dog which I got, along with a securing pin and thrust washer from the Distributor Doctor.

    I've had my lunch while typing thsi so now I'm going to get a bit more done before my relatives arrive.

    Hope you're all having a good weekend!

    Richard.
     
    • 20190818_122213.jpg
    8ob, garethp, Rannsachair and 4 others like this.
  10. Cobbler

    Cobbler Codger bodger

    Messages:
    4,314
    Location:
    Gloucestershire UK
    Is the Morris 8 the same as the MM, pistons going in from the bottom? If so, there maybe a tapered lead on the bottom of the bore. I did a MM about 50 years ago for someone & that was how it was done using just fingers to feed the rings in. Obviously after all this time, can’t recall too much, but remember well doing that, as the engine was in the car & fed the piston & rod up past the crank led on my back.
     
  11. RWD3M Member

    Messages:
    379
    Location:
    Wiltshire, UK
    Hi Cobbler,

    It is indeed. Pistons in from below.

    I will confess, I hadn't thought of that. They don't have a lead in but they do have these cut outs at the bottom of the bores!

    20190818_150051.jpg

    Good call!

    Richard.
     
    8ob likes this.
  12. Cobbler

    Cobbler Codger bodger

    Messages:
    4,314
    Location:
    Gloucestershire UK
    From memory, that was how the MM was, with a slight lead. Just enough to squeeze the rings up & in. As I said, it was a long time ago. Might be worth speaking to Cardiffrob as he’s got a few I think. I had a Morris 8 series one, given it when I was 16 after it had been in a flood. Got it running with the idea of getting on the road, but ended up scrapping it. Pity really looking back, but it was worth nothing then.
     
  13. minimutly Member

    Messages:
    358
    Location:
    Pembrokeshire Wales
    Can you not feed the ringless piston up through the block, fit rings and drop it down?
     
  14. RWD3M Member

    Messages:
    379
    Location:
    Wiltshire, UK
    I don't know, but I'll check.

    The fundamental problem I have though is keeping the bottom ring aligned with it's locating pin in the groove whilst compressing it.
     
  15. RWD3M Member

    Messages:
    379
    Location:
    Wiltshire, UK
    Turns out I can't. The top three rings come through but the bottom one remains inside the bore. Good thought though.
     
  16. Cobbler

    Cobbler Codger bodger

    Messages:
    4,314
    Location:
    Gloucestershire UK
    Just fit bottom ring, push the piston through & fit top rings then use a ring compressor in the normal way. If your concerned about it, this might be your best way.
     
  17. minimutly Member

    Messages:
    358
    Location:
    Pembrokeshire Wales
    Just do the second bit - ie push piston through, fit bottom ring, push down, then repeat with the top set?
     
  18. Cobbler

    Cobbler Codger bodger

    Messages:
    4,314
    Location:
    Gloucestershire UK
    If I understand you correctly, you can’t do that, you can’t feed in the pistons from the top, the big end won’t go through the bore, the piston won’t come up through enough to fit the bottom oil control ring.
     
  19. minimutly Member

    Messages:
    358
    Location:
    Pembrokeshire Wales
    No, feed it up sans rings so it sticks out the top.
     
  20. Melvyn Best Member

    Messages:
    135
    Location:
    Cambridge
    Could you remove the gudgeon pin , fit the oil control ring and insert the piston from the top of the block so the ring is into the bore then refit the Conrod/gudgeon pin before finally fitting the top rings? I once fitted new barrels and pistons to a mates VW with only basic hand tools using a similar method. I would be a bit concerned of catching the ring ends in the cut out section at the bottom of the bore although with carefully spacing the ring ends and using a decent ring compressor that compresses all of the rings it should be possible?
     
Advertisements