Mk5 Transit Minibus Project

  1. What's your username on their? I'd like to add you as a friend
  2. Silly me, the same as here, found & added you
  3. gavuk

    gavuk artful-bodger

    uk wiltshire
    ha ha :laughing:....i spend more time here but there are some true transit fans there and a lot of experience
  4. gavuk

    gavuk artful-bodger

    uk wiltshire
    Thats a tough timescale Ron,buy and learn to weld and fix the van on a drive at this time of your pics on the transit forum ,see if any of the lads are local,is it only welding stopping the van from being mot'd?
  5. What timescale would you estimate?

    Don't know if anything else as not bothered taking for MOT as knew it would fail on all the rust.
  6. stuvy

    stuvy Member

    after looking at the pics ron, id take it for an mot and ask the garage there honest opinion of it. Youl also get an idea of how many other expensive bits need replacing, tyres, suspension components etc.

    You mentioned your not working so you have the valuable part, time. Its just the cost of a welder/gas and the metal to stick back in there.
  7. I spent 40hours doing mine;)
  8. GeorgiePorgie pre-moderated

    Should only really take an hour or so to bleed the bakes,yah know. :)
  9. lol, very good;)
  10. gavuk

    gavuk artful-bodger

    uk wiltshire
    Impossible to say how long Ron ,depends on how fast you get a welder,how quickly you learn ,the weather,etc etc mine was off the road for 12months ,but i work and other jobs took priority over the van,too windy or too wet ,i found other tasks to keep me busy...
    ..I welded in the rear half of the floor ,repaired the chassis sections then got a mot to make sure every thing else was ok ,still had more welding to do but the engine ,brakes etc were all ok ,so I finished the mot welding ,got a ticket and now looking at the doors mot or quote from a welder may well be worth looking at ,remember the welding gear can cost £2-300 even on the cheap ,with gas ,helmet,clamps etc
  11. Interested in the Clarke Pro 90, do you think I would be able to get this job done with it, it has many good reviews.

    I've been stripping more interior out today, waiting for a m8 to bring me a pair of heavy duty 2.5t car ramps either Fri/Sat. Once it is secure in the air I will remove the drivers seat & all plastic/rubber from interior, then I will be able to start cutting out the rear floor.

    Managed to sell a spare double rear seat today for £40 :clapping: Thought that was a good price.

    I have 2 spare single rear seats, the old 2000 traffic radio/cassette player & rear tow-bar to sort out 2 sell
  12. gavuk

    gavuk artful-bodger

    uk wiltshire
    Nice one Ron ,I would have said go for 130-150amp to give a better duty cycle (working without overheating) and allows for thicker material so i'm not sure if a 90 is man enough,others will be more help.
    I see your on the transit forum ,take diesel123 up on his offer to visit ,he sells the panels to members over there....
  13. Will do, did not know he had offered to visit, I am well aware of him on their as he is all over the forums and mentioned by lots of people
  14. Quick update as tired & need me bed, managed to get the van up on decent ramps, removed every bit of trim/plastic from inside and doorcards, also removed the tow-bar & bumper. Wow them bolts were rusted solid!

    Decided to have a go at cutting out some of the crap updated the last few pics to show my progress (My pictures are all on my profile)
  15. I think the Clarke 100E would suit my needs best as don't need to weld thicker than 2mm & as it has 6 power settings has more scope for my learning curve.
  16. Just before I get spending on a welder ect, just wanted to get an idea of what I would expect to pay someone to weld this job for me as a guide or real quote.
  17. octo0072000

    octo0072000 Member

    south yorks

    Ron you would be much better of with the 150 clarke you would be pushing it with the 100 even though it say it will weld 3mm transit chassis is 2.5 mm and double thickness in places so you see the point also the 100 has a low duty cycle so you will be stopping every 110/15mins as it overheats no fan in that welder

    link for clarke welder manual

    have a look at the duty cycles the 100 is 8% at max the bigger the welder the better the duty cycle

    this one from weldequip link at top of every page

    manual for the 160 this is still a 150amp one as well
    duty cycle see below
    This model is covered by
    regulations EN 60974-1 and
    EN 50199, where the Duty
    Cycle (X) is expressed as a
    percentage of time the
    machine may be used in a
    given period for a specified
    welding current.
    i.e. When welding at 75
    Amps the machine may be
    used for 6 minutes (60%) in
    any 10 minute period..
    ............or, the machine may
    be used continuously,
    (100%) when welding at 55
    Interpolate for other
    welding currents

    nothing is more frustrating than trying to weld and the welder keeps cutting out every 10 mins unless you like a ten minute fag break every 10/12 mins you get the idea
    another point on yours is it's a factory minibus so try to repair the floor dont cut it all out as the floor has all the reinforcing plates for the seat mountings replacement floors are just van so you will have to remake all the reinforcing panels and mounting points MOT fail point if seats not not fitted correctly to reinforced floor now have fun loads of welding off the bus first will pay dividends later
  18. Right food for thought, I just don't want to waste money on a higher spec welder if I am not gonna get any use out of it. I would proberly plate the chassis with 2mm, as don't feel confident in cutting & replacing it, don't like the idea of having to stop all the time as I don't smoke anymore, don't mind stopping to position welds/metal :-)

    Thanks on the tip re the floor, the area on the left that I have cut out was really bad & as the seats will never be fixed back in there, I thought it would be easier to cut the floor to replace & get better access to plate the chassis on that side, will repair the other side as it's not that bad, seats 7/8 attach to the rear right arch here so don't wanna cut this side, thanks for the tip again.

    Really don't know what to do about the welders, was looking 2nd hand but so many beaten up crap on the bay, Machine Mart has the VAT free deal on until midnight tonight, been looking at these;
    110E for £200 (instead of £240)
    151EN Turbo for £195 (instead of £000)
    151TE for £250 (instead of £300)

    I want to get the regulator conversion kit from weldeuip (Think it's about £45) that allows me to use the larger gas bottles. No way am I using disposable with the amount I need. I will use the 5% Argon mix from Adams gas or similar from what I have been reading on here.
    From this thinking of going for the 151EN Turbo & the regulator conversion kit from weldequip, would I need anything else to convert the EN to gas?

    Think I need to use a different wire? Not sure which one, how do I estimate how much I need?

    Just not sure weather to wait further for a good 2nd hand deal to come up as I need so much other stuff, or bite the bullet & get the welder while I can save a bit of £ & go from there, after all I can't learn to weld with no welder.
  19. On the 151.

    What's this 16A - 230v Phase Supply, can I cut off the blue plug thing & just rewire a standard 13 amp plug. As I will never be using it at maximun output or even close to that, or is that too much bodging, I ain't paying no sparky to mess with me electrics
  20. Robotstar5

    Robotstar5 Casanunda Staff Member

    It probably won't come with a plug on, just advice to use a 20A supply, Clarke are just covering themselves. Plenty of folks on here are using 150A welders on good quality 13A plugs. You can even run max power briefly on one, it just won't take sustained full power for long periods, even then it will just blow the fuse, easily replacable.