slim_boy_fat
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Kram
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Oil change done, Im embarrressed to have left it this long, about 7k miles. The Lidl 12v ratchet made it an easy task to remove the undertray. Heres a pic...
I had bad memories of jacking up previous cars... Always took an age and less than ideal,
the "jacking points" usually described as on the sill, but it seems a weak area easily damaged which will then rust. Instead I jacked it on the solid area of the subframe, and stuck axle stand on the front bit that goes across. Does that sound correct? Im sure thats where the tyre place lifts it by.
Internet told me 4.3 litres which is about what my bottle contained. I was working on a slope so would have been a pain to accurately check but I could have underfilled and topped up after...
The old measures about 3.8L on the bottle measure so I may have overfilled it a reasonable amount.
However checking it now after a few miles on flat ground, its good and only half way
One job done. Next up is spraying the spare wheel.
I had bad memories of jacking up previous cars... Always took an age and less than ideal,
the "jacking points" usually described as on the sill, but it seems a weak area easily damaged which will then rust. Instead I jacked it on the solid area of the subframe, and stuck axle stand on the front bit that goes across. Does that sound correct? Im sure thats where the tyre place lifts it by.
Internet told me 4.3 litres which is about what my bottle contained. I was working on a slope so would have been a pain to accurately check but I could have underfilled and topped up after...
The old measures about 3.8L on the bottle measure so I may have overfilled it a reasonable amount.
However checking it now after a few miles on flat ground, its good and only half way
One job done. Next up is spraying the spare wheel.
zx9
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Remember half way is half way between low and max, not half filled with oil.However checking it now after a few miles on flat ground, its good and only half way
Kram
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Yes I wouldnt think that needs mentioning to any one of this forum. If the capacity really is 4.3 litres, I expect 3.3 litres gets it up to the min mark, and another 1L or so to maximum. Of that initial 3.3L, 500ml will be sitting in the filter canister (I fill the canister before I screw it on), so theres ~2.8L in the sump below the mark
Dessieb2022
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Sounds complicated to me. I just keep filling until I get to the maximum mark and don't worry about capacities.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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I don't, never have. Change the oil and filter, give the engine a little run, let cool & top up as necessary. Just keep an eye on it the next day. Nearest I get to pre filling the filter is smearing some new oil on the rubber seal.
zx9
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It is just about impossible to pre fill the filter on a lot of engines, especially when there is no cannister just a paper filter nestled in the engine with a screw on plastic cap.
Kram
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Been a while, decided it was time for its first wash 
(Ignore the blurred out numberplate, it appears that AI is poo)
When I got her I found the left mirror cover somewhat loose fitting, clips broken. I had used duct tape for extra security, but looks rubbish. Tonight took the tape off and epoxied the cover in place. The tape residue should come off easily with brake cleaner I hope.
(Ignore the blurred out numberplate, it appears that AI is poo)
When I got her I found the left mirror cover somewhat loose fitting, clips broken. I had used duct tape for extra security, but looks rubbish. Tonight took the tape off and epoxied the cover in place. The tape residue should come off easily with brake cleaner I hope.
Kram
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Needs another wash
Im told the alarm has been going off a lot more, so I asked the guy who lives opposite and he said yes, please fix it!
I'm thinking its the drivers door sensor, built into the latch. A quick youtube shows people pulling the door apart to get it out, but other videos showing brake cleaner spray around the latch doing the job. Im sceptical but its worth a try. If I take it out and mess it up, then I cant lock or drive it!
Anyone had to do this before?
Im told the alarm has been going off a lot more, so I asked the guy who lives opposite and he said yes, please fix it!
I'm thinking its the drivers door sensor, built into the latch. A quick youtube shows people pulling the door apart to get it out, but other videos showing brake cleaner spray around the latch doing the job. Im sceptical but its worth a try. If I take it out and mess it up, then I cant lock or drive it!
Anyone had to do this before?
Kram
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Alarm, drivers door lock, front brake pads and various other annoyances fixed..
I still need to do the drive belt. ECP list several but cant tell me which one, and theres no text remaining on the belt, it has wore off.
I may have to buy all three and send the unused ones back..
Any ideas? 2009, 2L petrol "TS" trim/model. Has aircon, but I imagine they all do..?
Also update on the headlights. Initially the results of polishing were great however I did not coat them. It hasnt taken long and they are back to a cloudy degraded look, so I will polish up again and then clearcoat when I get to it.
I still need to do the drive belt. ECP list several but cant tell me which one, and theres no text remaining on the belt, it has wore off.
I may have to buy all three and send the unused ones back..
Any ideas? 2009, 2L petrol "TS" trim/model. Has aircon, but I imagine they all do..?
Also update on the headlights. Initially the results of polishing were great however I did not coat them. It hasnt taken long and they are back to a cloudy degraded look, so I will polish up again and then clearcoat when I get to it.
You need the build number (For OE number) to tell you which one.
I don't know about Mazda, but it might be on the data plate or part of the VIN No?
Kram
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Brakes are great fun 
New pads needed adjustment with a file to fit.
After spending £400 or so last year for new calliper, I didnt expect it to be siezed in the carrier. The old pads were clearly old ones, not replaced with the calliper and worn like a bananna.
Some marking on the disc but luckily I think I have caught it in time. A couple weeks of driving and the mot guy will never know
How do I clean out the fluid tank, while the fluid itself does not look too bad and was replensished with new. What is all this grey sludge around the filter and sides?
New pads needed adjustment with a file to fit.
After spending £400 or so last year for new calliper, I didnt expect it to be siezed in the carrier. The old pads were clearly old ones, not replaced with the calliper and worn like a bananna.
Some marking on the disc but luckily I think I have caught it in time. A couple weeks of driving and the mot guy will never know
How do I clean out the fluid tank, while the fluid itself does not look too bad and was replensished with new. What is all this grey sludge around the filter and sides?
Brakes are great fun
New pads needed adjustment with a file to fit.
View attachment 482800
After spending £400 or so last year for new calliper, I didnt expect it to be siezed in the carrier. The old pads were clearly old ones, not replaced with the calliper and worn like a bananna.
Some marking on the disc but luckily I think I have caught it in time. A couple weeks of driving and the mot guy will never know
View attachment 482797
How do I clean out the fluid tank, while the fluid itself does not look too bad and was replensished with new. What is all this grey sludge around the filter and sides?
View attachment 482798
View attachment 482799
Can you get a syringe in there to suck the gunk up?
The grey sludge looks like the result of seals breaking down (unless it looks metallic?).
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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I religiously smear the backs of the pads, in between the back of the pad and that press on shield thing, where the pads slide etc with this:
Sealey SCS103 Aluminium Anti-Seize Grease Compound 500g Tin - PrimeTools
Aluminium (copper free) anti-seize compound. For use on all studs, nuts, bolts and other threaded connections. Formulated to be used in extreme environments of heat up to 760°C. 500g Tin
www.primetools.co.uk
Kram
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Last time I did the rear passenger side pads as it was a matter of urgency. Your supposed to do both wheels at the same time but the right had plenty left, about half worn, which the left would have been if they hadn't siezed on the slide pins, so drivers rear was todays task.
A major annoyance again, the slide pins. Despite the calipers being replaced last year the pins had no lubrication, some rust and wear visible and likely would have siezed soon. One pin is different to other 7 on the car in that, it has a rubber tip - one that did not want to go back in its hole and I have had to leave the rubber tip off. Any ideas why it has the rubber, or that the others do not?
I shall order a new set of 8 pins.
On to the fun part. I syringed most of the fluid out resevior, topped up and repeated many times to get most of the grey dirt out.
Pushed the caliper piston in, the fluid level hardly moved, a bit odd!
I tried the brake bleeder - https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/recommend-me-a-brake-bleeder-tool.141783/post-2548500
Impossible to get the universal cap to fit. The bottom of my tank is tapered so theres nothing for the chain to pull on.
It came with a 43mm screw cap but my bottle has a bayonete fitting - which has a stop after each lip. However I was able to get a good enough seal and trusted it upto about 11psi.
For the next time (I only bled one caliper!) I shall get a proper cap and modify.
Fluid tank now a bit cleaner. Still dirt at the top which I cant get to, and appears some at the bottom, but the area of the outlet (middle section of bottom) appears clean.
Another interesting fact is the bled fluid in catch tank, was near enough the same colour. I was expecting nasty dirty sludge!
Brake pedal now feels extremely sharp, so it appears the bleeder worked well. I wouldnt have said the pedal was spongy before, but for a general road car you dont want it too sharp.. I havent driven yet so thats just from parked.
A major annoyance again, the slide pins. Despite the calipers being replaced last year the pins had no lubrication, some rust and wear visible and likely would have siezed soon. One pin is different to other 7 on the car in that, it has a rubber tip - one that did not want to go back in its hole and I have had to leave the rubber tip off. Any ideas why it has the rubber, or that the others do not?
I shall order a new set of 8 pins.
On to the fun part. I syringed most of the fluid out resevior, topped up and repeated many times to get most of the grey dirt out.
Pushed the caliper piston in, the fluid level hardly moved, a bit odd!
I tried the brake bleeder - https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/recommend-me-a-brake-bleeder-tool.141783/post-2548500
Impossible to get the universal cap to fit. The bottom of my tank is tapered so theres nothing for the chain to pull on.
It came with a 43mm screw cap but my bottle has a bayonete fitting - which has a stop after each lip. However I was able to get a good enough seal and trusted it upto about 11psi.
For the next time (I only bled one caliper!) I shall get a proper cap and modify.
Fluid tank now a bit cleaner. Still dirt at the top which I cant get to, and appears some at the bottom, but the area of the outlet (middle section of bottom) appears clean.
Another interesting fact is the bled fluid in catch tank, was near enough the same colour. I was expecting nasty dirty sludge!
Brake pedal now feels extremely sharp, so it appears the bleeder worked well. I wouldnt have said the pedal was spongy before, but for a general road car you dont want it too sharp.. I havent driven yet so thats just from parked.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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- 12,690
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