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eLuSiVeMiTe
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I refer you to post #26
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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But it's not a habitable room, never intended to be, I've said so so why bring it up? The aim is a clean and tidy, well built storage platform with no impact on the lightweight, aged ceiling joists. At the same time clean the place up and up the insulation to a good degree.
mike os
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gaz1
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i would have agreed with mike and elusive but i took into account the beam reference
where the beam is only there as a strengthener and not even put into the wall sat on wall beam brackets the ceiling is then supported by beam brackets so mostly pretty new roof
so the extra beam is there to aid the roof beam thats not strong enough in the first place for the weight of the roof further notice theres no apex frame build
that is the main reason why i wouldnt have gone from beam to beam, with a new flooring too much added weight in the wooding and flooring of the floor as well as the stuff thats going to be stored up there on top
onoff hasnt stated the weight there after but if sold the next person faces the same issue
@dobbslc has had this issue of just flooring 3x2s ceiling joists
where the beam is only there as a strengthener and not even put into the wall sat on wall beam brackets the ceiling is then supported by beam brackets so mostly pretty new roof
so the extra beam is there to aid the roof beam thats not strong enough in the first place for the weight of the roof further notice theres no apex frame build
that is the main reason why i wouldnt have gone from beam to beam, with a new flooring too much added weight in the wooding and flooring of the floor as well as the stuff thats going to be stored up there on top
onoff hasnt stated the weight there after but if sold the next person faces the same issue
@dobbslc has had this issue of just flooring 3x2s ceiling joists
Roof trouble!
I've been in the eaves in my house (chalet bungalow if it makes any difference) looking at the roof structure and have found some donkey has cut one of the struts out to extend the bedroom! It's similar to the drawing below except the bottom of the struts are sitting on top of internal brick...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
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Seadog
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My loft conversion did away with the purlins. The support position was moved outwards to widen the available floor space. The ridge was tied across with 4x3 to triangulate and then a 4x3 was secured across the space, supported by wall hangars, and tied into each roof joist. Another was used to tie all of the floor joists together. Each upper and lower pair were then tied vertically. Finally, one face was clad with 18mm ply, glued and screwed. All timber connections were fitted with dog-toothed washers. It was designed by a structural engineer. Still standing after 32 years.
gaz1
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theres a few things involved first as its classified as change of use from loft to liveable
but for most people and access for workers
You can board out your loft without Building Regulation approval but laying or fitting loft flooring in the loft or attic must only be done to store light items, such as empty suitcases. or light boxes spread over the floor
velux window is pretty vague on there answer
VELUX Windows Planning Permission - All You Need to Know
Do you need planning permission to install roof windows?
but its permitted developement
Roof - Planning Permission - Roof - Planning Portal
Details of the planning permission and building regulation regimes for Roof in England
www.planningportal.co.uk
Building regulations approval is required to convert a loft or attic into a liveable space
or usable space like an office so beaware of it
Is building regulations approval needed for a loft conversion? - Loft conversion - Planning Portal
Is building regulations approval needed for a loft conversion? Find out if you need to apply for approval to convert a loft
www.planningportal.co.uk
many people do the change without telling planning good on them for doing so
but put a window or roof light in and your asking for trouble
dobbslc
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gaz1
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You may wish to make these alterations to enhance the storage facilities available
by remembering the 2 comments below
- the structural strength of the new floor is sufficient
- the stability of the structure (including the existing roof) is not endangered
planning permission or permitted development not needed as new floor is being fitted from wall to wall above original ceiling height
fitting an apex point above will make the roof structure stronger as well an improvement to the roof
where it should of had it in the first place that roof should have had 2 beams fitted one high and one low but some builder hasnt fitted them or even fitted an apex structure
Is building regulations approval needed for a loft conversion? - Loft conversion - Planning Portal
Is building regulations approval needed for a loft conversion? Find out if you need to apply for approval to convert a loft
www.planningportal.co.uk
Boarding-out for storage
In most homes, the existing timber joists that form the "floor" of the loft space ( i.e. the ceiling of the rooms below) will not have been designed to support a significant weight (known as "load"). The joists tie the pitched members of the roof together to prevent them spreading and support the ceiling lining of the rooms below.An excessive additional load, for example from storage, may mean that the joists are loaded beyond their design capacity. If you decide to lay flooring boards over the existing joists in the loft space, then this may require a Building Regulations Application to Building Control. Your local Building Control body will be able to advise you on this issue.
Creating a liveable space
If you decide to create a liveable space (a 'liveable space' is where you intend to use the room as a normal part of your house, including spare bedrooms which may be used infrequently) in an existing loft space of a home it is likely to require a range of alterations.Many of these could have an adverse impact on the building and its occupants if they are not properly thought out, planned and undertaken in accordance with the requirements of the legislation.
gaz1
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with what you found on that nowadays you could sue the ex sellerChrist @gaz1 that took some remembering!
New 7x2 joists etc and a steel to hold it all up properly
Bloody DIY Dave's
as the structure was unsafe and those rooms wasnt usable due to being so unsafe knocking 20.000 of the price of the house for work remedys in repairing the property
now you know why houses now have to have certification of improvements
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Can you point me at a picture for this sort of thing? I originally thought you meant collar ties.
Cheers.
mike os
just a little insane.....
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the timbers the ceiling joists are tied to is a binder , adds stiffness to the joists.... otherwise you would need much deeper ceiling joists if they were not to flex or sag too much.
they look to be 175 or 200 deep... way overkill, mine are 3x2, as are the hangers, the vertical ties (hangers) from them to the roof is again to take out bounce/sag.
for what you want its already overkill,
they look to be 175 or 200 deep... way overkill, mine are 3x2, as are the hangers, the vertical ties (hangers) from them to the roof is again to take out bounce/sag.
for what you want its already overkill,
gaz1
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your building an attic truss
because your removing the other cross truses you need to strengthen in other areas
you need to build the triangle in the high point of the apex for support or spreading the load but you also need to do a lower one from the 2" beam to the roof truss again under the beam
thats why you can only remove the middle cross truss one to get materials into play but once you do you will need to get the apex point built quickly
this will strengthen your roof before you remove the other 2 cross trusses so you can board your floors
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Um...I wasn't intending removing the diagonals coming down from the purlins. In fact I was looking to put two more in the hatch end where they seem to be missing.
gaz1
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your only removing these in red its just the middle one for better access
then your putting in cross members to support your roof at other side of the beam in a diagonal like in the attic pic above
from the beam to the roof truss
that will give you full access to your storage area
if you want to leave them in do so but for what your doing better to do a full floor and a little addons to the apex height and to the sides from beam to rafters
then your putting in cross members to support your roof at other side of the beam in a diagonal like in the attic pic above
from the beam to the roof truss
that will give you full access to your storage area
if you want to leave them in do so but for what your doing better to do a full floor and a little addons to the apex height and to the sides from beam to rafters
gaz1
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like this video here
only for storage
and guess what the customer will do when the builders go away
cut the cross members out trying to use it as something else and we all know this is happening
as they use it as a bedroom or as an office space not light weight storage
onoff will be using a stronger floor method a new floor from wall to wall joists above the original 3x2 ceiling woods
only for storage
and guess what the customer will do when the builders go away
cut the cross members out trying to use it as something else and we all know this is happening
as they use it as a bedroom or as an office space not light weight storage
onoff will be using a stronger floor method a new floor from wall to wall joists above the original 3x2 ceiling woods
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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I like starting "clean". Not sure of my ability to put these direct onto the brick/block (possibly loose) wall keeping them all dead level and not hit a mortar joint etc.
Hence my favoured idea is a timber on the wall first with bolts into the wall to miss the hangers that get nailed to the timber.
The timber gives me that clean slate to run my square along and mark out.
Sorry to be a pain!
Hence my favoured idea is a timber on the wall first with bolts into the wall to miss the hangers that get nailed to the timber.
The timber gives me that clean slate to run my square along and mark out.
Sorry to be a pain!
