Lathe

[Gritineye]

I would keep to hss but it will see a lot of stainless and other hard metal

Get your grind, speed and feed right and HSS:Co can cut stainless OK, depending on the grade of course..

 

[Jlg]

Get your grind, speed and feed right and HSS:Co can cut stainless OK, depending on the grade of course..

316 304 and a few high tensile bolts

 

[Pete.]

Get a dressing tool for your grinder wheels. The wheels will cut better and it helps keep the part cool if the wheel is dressed.

 

[Jlg]

Get a dressing tool for your grinder wheels. The wheels will cut better and it helps keep the part cool if the wheel is dressed.

Got one somewhere

 

[Bill Edwards]

Personally I can’t be bothered with hss, I want to spend my time using the lathe not a grinder.

I would as a minimum get a simple RH turning tool (cheap one from China works) and buy decent inserts. Or you can get sets of holders which all use the same inserts which is a good idea.
Then you only need hss for odd tools that don’t see much use.

Hss can seem to disappear in front of your eyes...

 

[Jlg]

What bearings does it use I think that there on the way out

 

[8ob]

Personally I can’t be bothered with hss,

Hss can seem to disappear in front of your eyes...

Impatient git like me then Bill Hss in the right hands can do everything you want, I have the wrong hands

Bob

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

What bearings does it use I think that there on the way out

Bronze bushings?

 

[Jlg]

Bronze bushings?

Is there any thing I can do to remove the little bit of play in them

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Is there any thing I can do to remove the little bit of play in them

@MattF will know.
Sure @zx9 posted something about adjustment yesterday

 

[MattF]

lathes.co.uk will have info on the subject. Drummond generally used either CI or bronze bushes. Adjustment will likely be via a nut, (notched for a C spanner), on the end of the bush, else via a couple of screws, one either side of the bush.

 

[Bill Edwards]

Impatient git like me then Bill Hss in the right hands can do everything you want, I have the wrong hands

Bob

Time using the lathe is either enjoyment or money earned, depending on your type of use.
Time grinding, regrinding and setting the height of HSS is time wasted, life is over too quickly to mess around. A carbide tip does everything asked of it (soft materials, hard materials, interrupted cuts etc), lasts a long time and takes next to no time to change when it's worn. No brainer as far as I'm concerned.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Time using the lathe is either enjoyment or money earned, depending on your type of use.
Time grinding, regrinding and setting the height of HSS is time wasted, life is over too quickly to mess around. A carbide tip does everything asked of it (soft materials, hard materials, interrupted cuts etc), lasts a long time and takes next to no time to change when it's worn. No brainer as far as I'm concerned.

Other than profiled tools all my cuts are with inserts. As above. Time is limited so slapping a new insert in and getting cutting far outweighs cost to me.

 

[zx9]

@MattF will know.
Sure @zx9 posted something about adjustment yesterday

I did see post 32 But I don't know which pattern of bearings that age of Drummond used, time to check the two Drummond groups I mentioned or the model engineering forums, sorry.

 

[Bill Edwards]

Other than profiled tools all my cuts are with inserts. As above. Time is limited so slapping a new insert in and getting cutting far outweighs cost to me.

Cost of inserts sometimes seems a lot when you first look at it but really it is not much.

Take a CCMT insert at say £6, right sort of thing for a small lathe. Two cutting edges makes each edge £3 and it’ll last a very long time in normal hobby use.

I use Iscar WNMG inserts for nearly all turning and boring - everything that isn’t small. £6 each and each insert has six edges so that’s £1 each. They are very, very tough and last a long time from a wear point of view, £1 goes a long way.

 

[Jlg]

Cost of inserts sometimes seems a lot when you first look at it but really it is not much.

Take a CCMT insert at say £6, right sort of thing for a small lathe. Two cutting edges makes each edge £3 and it’ll last a very long time in normal hobby use.

I use Iscar WNMG inserts for nearly all turning and boring - everything that isn’t small. £6 each and each insert has six edges so that’s £1 each. They are very, very tough and last a long time from a wear point of view, £1 goes a long way.

Have you got any links to the inserts you use

 

[Carl Wilson]

That is a really nice example. I have got a Drummond B type, mine is in pieces awaiting my acquisition of that most specialised of tools, the "round tuit" so I can begin it's restoration.

What you have to bear in mind is that the machine in the photographs either is, or is getting close to being, 100 years old. Mine was produced in 1918. There is a serial number on the bed sear at the tailstock end that you can work out the date of manufacture from. The site lathes.co.uk has a lot of good information on these machines as well as notes on deciphering the manufacturing date from the serial number.

The rectangular bar at the bottom is to disengage the power feed. If you look at the headstock end, there is a dog clutch between the change wheel drive and the lead screw. A striking fork on the saddle hits an adjustable stop on the rectangular bar, pushing the bar towards the headstock and thereby disengaging the dog clutch.

Regarding inserts, I used to buy mine from Associated Production Tooling in Glasgow. Now I use Bang Good. It is the same product but considerably less money. They are no different in terms of performance.

 

[Jlg]

That is a really nice example. I have got a Drummond B type, mine is in pieces awaiting my acquisition of that most specialised of tools, the "round tuit" so I can begin it's restoration.

What you have to bear in mind is that the machine in the photographs either is, or is getting close to being, 100 years old. Mine was produced in 1918. There is a serial number on the bed sear at the tailstock end that you can work out the date of manufacture from. The site lathes.co.uk has a lot of good information on these machines as well as notes on deciphering the manufacturing date from the serial number.

The rectangular bar at the bottom is to disengage the power feed. If you look at the headstock end, there is a dog clutch between the change wheel drive and the lead screw. A striking fork on the saddle hits an adjustable stop on the rectangular bar, pushing the bar towards the headstock and thereby disengaging the dog clutch.

Regarding inserts, I used to buy mine from Associated Production Tooling in Glasgow. Now I use Bang Good. It is the same product but considerably less money. They are no different in terms of performance.

It's a 1918 and I'm missing the bit to disengage the power feed what can I use to steady the work as it doesn't have one of those centres you put in a hole at the end

 

[zx9]

It's a 1918 and I'm missing the bit to disengage the power feed what can I use to steady the work as it doesn't have one of those centres you put in a hole at the end

You need either a dead centre which is a solid bit of metal shaped to fit the 1MT taper in your tail stock of a live centre which rotates but is not so good for tool clearance. Link to various types on Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_s...eld-keywords=mt1+centre&rh=i:aps,k:mt1+centre Amazon only because I am feeling lazy you can get them from anywhere, ebay what ever the important bit is the size 1MT or as often written MT1

 

[Jlg]

You need either a dead centre which is a solid bit of metal shaped to fit the 1MT taper in your tail stock of a live centre which rotates but is not so good for tool clearance. Link to various types on Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=mt1+centre&rh=i:aps,k:mt1+centre Amazon only because I am feeling lazy you can get them from anywhere, ebay what ever the important bit is the size 1MT or as often written MT1

You need either a dead centre which is a solid bit of metal shaped to fit the 1MT taper in your tail stock of a live centre which rotates but is not so good for tool clearance. Link to various types on Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=mt1+centre&rh=i:aps,k:mt1+centre Amazon only because I am feeling lazy you can get them from anywhere, ebay what ever the important bit is the size 1MT or as often written MT1

How do I fit it