Landy project

  1. Chipper Member

    Messages:
    1,550
    Location:
    UK
    Seems there's a few Landy owners on here so thought I might tart mine shamelessly around...
    This is my first one, a Lightweight. Or at least, an S2a built onto a 64 chassis, with I think a civvy tub and tailgate. Not one for rivet counters.

    The current, wildly optimistic idea, was to MOT the sucker without roof/sides and door tops, no seatbelts. I can use it for the work commute that way. Then crack on with the cage, seatbelts, hardtop etc as we go along. Time and cash are very short supply though.

    As arrived it had a truck cab, windows fitted badly. Saloon seats with 2 tacks onto vertical 1mm DIY steel - very wobbly. Rotten seatbox, tops a lash up of 7 sheets overlapping etc. Missing handbrake/relay stuff. Props loose. Door tops beaten with a hammer in an attempt to make them fit the truck cab.

    It ran but sounded like Satan ordering breakfast ... Holed exhaust and belching great black clouds. Rebuilt the carb, and after a while it ran a whole lot less smokey so maybe the motor is saveable.
    [​IMG]

    Stripped/re-assembled the dead heater motor together, which now runs.
    The throttle linkage was hopeless, fouled the bulkhead & heater hoses, and was trying to chop a clutch hard line. So I re-made that with a new rod, stepped to clear the heater hoses, and some spacers and stuff from some of the tat boxes.
    [​IMG]

    Did a fair bit of chassis welding. All fairly dull and the usual stuff. Removed a bucket full of mud and gack from inside the rails. Someone'd 'repaired' the dumb-irons with 1.2mm and missed whole seams.
    Scraped off the underseal, paint, etc and 2k epoxy primer'd and painted the chassis, still a bit to do though.

    Removed the props, transbrake stuff and g'box x-member. I'll have to figure out the transbrake later, stuff is missing and it didn't work.

    Handbrake relay pivot was shot, so made another using the pivot shaft end from it.
    [​IMG]

    Sorted the front output housing/stuck shafts resulting in difflock that wouldn't stay down.

    Various things got stripped back, epoxy primer, and 2k black'd either gloss or matt - heater, motor, air cleaner stuff, transbrake.
    Gbox cross member painted, poured paint inside and swilled it too.
    Fuel tank stripped, primered and satin synth-enamelled.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Seatbox tops and seats were chucked. Seatbox sides were a mess.
    Since the box itself so weak and some of the capping angle shot, I decided to make a steel frame (pic of it in progress). The front angle sits flush on the vertical, so a vee was needed. Lwt seatboxes are vertical fronted. Frame, part-done:
    [​IMG]

    So I'm making seatbox sides, tops, seatbox frame, seat frames and the seats. One seatbox top, folded and pilot-drilled:
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Chipper Member

    Messages:
    1,550
    Location:
    UK
    Part 2

    Made a folder, here it is but not finished:
    [​IMG]

    Seatbox sides were made and squirted with epoxy, can't see it but there's folds on all edges; top was doubled-over to stiffen.
    [​IMG]

    These then got coated inside rubber compound and rivetted on. I got a cheap air rivetter, works really well so far. Either identical to, or more like a good copy of, one of the brand ones but 1/3 price.
    The rubber is an 'elastomeric liquid rubber', can be sprayed or rollered. Basically roofing paint ... the idea was to help sound deadening a little, on the cheap, and protect the undersides of panels. A nice finish when sprayed but dries up too easily in the air cap.

    Started making a frame for the seat backs. There's no bulkhead (it was chopped out). Will add a cage later.
    [​IMG]

    Seatbox tops painted and rubber'd unerneath, and other stuff done here 'n there (general sanding and primer, paint).
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Chipper Member

    Messages:
    1,550
    Location:
    UK
    Last bit

    Started assembling the transbrake and output shaft thing. Rather than pay for circlip pliers (mine are too small), wait for post, and guess the right size for that big ol' circlip I made a quick tool. Couple of strips, 3 stainless bolts, bit of cuttage and weldage and half an hour later:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Made a new gasket for the oil catcher. Bit of ally tube, whizz a cutting edge with the grinder+flap disc. One hole punch.
    Lay the gasket on another piece of paper, so the punch cuts right through. Couple of mins and done with neat holes of spot-on size. I've got a collection of 'punches' made from old air fittings, fuel reg's, anything that suits.
    [​IMG]

    One of the 3 seatbases. Ran out of epoxy so resorted to red lead. Can always re-do it in the future.
    [​IMG]

    The trans tunnel is torn and manky, so made a new one. First made a pattern out of heavy paper, traced onto sheet ally and cut it with tin snips.
    Did the holes by drilling, cutting, and filing them to shape. Added holes for the inspection grommets later.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Speedo was dead, so I opened it up and got it going. It's the right 1408 code for the 7.50 tyres. Ran a new speedo cable. Unfortunately this turned out to be made by Britp*rt so it might not last long.

    The doors, tub sides and tailgate have been flatted - were painted by broom it seems. All primered and first coat of NATO green laid on.
    The tub floor is a state, I've hit it with a sanding disc and epoxy primer. May paint it, or may use the rubber compound on it, not sure yet.
    Bought a hard top and sides for a tenner, and a new bonnet for a tenner. The hardtop needs narrowing but that's no probs. I also have a catflap (upper tailgate) so will have a split gate instead of single door.

    The floor doesn't lay flat on the sill. There's a gap big enough to drive a bus through, almost:
    [​IMG]

    CBA taking the tub off and working out alingment and all that, and needed new floors anyway, so I made some. Here's one, made on the folder, still wet with epoxy:
    [​IMG]

    Other side has a smaller "step" so another method's needed as it's a bit too small for the folder.
    Made a template and cut out a floor panel.
    After marking up the 'step' lines I clamped it on top of a spare bit of 8mm steel plate, with another random bit of steel on top of the sheet.
    Made holes in the bench top with a holesaw, so the G-clamps could fit in.
    Then take one brick bolster, fettle the edge so it's not so sharp and has slightly rounded corners. Hammer'd the line which'll be the bottom fold in the step. Doing it inside out hides marks from the bolster, i.e. the hammering goes on the underside of the floor.

    [​IMG]

    Quick whizz with the sander, ready for epoxy primer. Add some ally channel underneath as reinforcements, rivetted through:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2009
  4. bill_gj

    bill_gj Tired and irritable

    Messages:
    1,394
    Location:
    Essex, UK
    Lovely work
     
  5. rtbcomp

    rtbcomp Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    18,615
    Location:
    Sheffield UK
    Making your own bits with home-made tools - brilliant.
     
  6. Chipper Member

    Messages:
    1,550
    Location:
    UK
    Ta chaps :cool:
    Piccy of bolster bodgery went awol, put it back in.
     
  7. TheJoker Member

    Messages:
    457
    Near Oxford, UK
    I really like your work. Very well done! Love that you've made your own tools too. :clapping:
     
  8. Angusdog

    Angusdog Well-meaning amateur

    Messages:
    724
    Location:
    Wellington, NZ
    Superb thread - I love the way you show how you've dealt with problems which apply to loads of other projects people might have, like my Minis. I love Landies but can't justify another projects - that's why I buy lottery tickets, so I can quit my job and potter in the workshop full time ;)
     
  9. Eastblock Member

    Messages:
    149
    Location:
    Br√łnderslev, Denmark
    Don't have Land Rovers but a couple of Russian 4x4's (Gaz69M and Uaz469). They are from 1961 and 1971 respectively. The Gaz is virtually rust free but the Uaz will need patching on the doors. They generally don't seems as prone to chassis rot as the Land Rovers.
     
  10. Debs. Member

    Messages:
    458
    Location:
    uk
    I love seeing people`s projects; especially quality work like this!:clapping:
     
  11. Chipper Member

    Messages:
    1,550
    Location:
    UK
    Thanks folks, yer very kind :cool:

    Eastblock, got any pics? Don't know anything about those.

    Angusdog, I had a Mini for a short time, bought cheap. Intended to sell it on, but would've kept it as we liked it, but being 6-2 or so I was like a wolf spider in a matchbox :laughing:

    Done a bit more, but not pic-worthy. Being an a*se I'd welded the gearbox x-member mounts in the wrong place. Had to make new and stick them on. Didn't have any ref's after chopping rot out, but should've aligned the gearbox etc. :ashamed:

    Got the week off to work on it, but things have got in the way, like dire need to sort my Triumph bike, the daily transport.
     
  12. Zealous Member

    Once again Chipper excellent work. I'm a great admirer of innovative people who think outside the box.
     
  13. Chipper Member

    Messages:
    1,550
    Location:
    UK
    Had an enforced break of a few weeks, before that I got the g'box cross member in and box mounted, trans brake on and adjusted and props on.

    Tunnel and floors and seatbox sides in. Funked up the tunnel though :whistle:, the main aperture was in the wrong place. Wazzock - should have set up the g'box first and not just copied the manky tunnel. So I made anti-funk-up bits to sort it. O well...
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    The tub got cleaned, sanded, and rubber coated. It'll get a stable mat or similar later.
    [​IMG]

    I'm facing a total re-wire. Never done a full one before so will be good to learn. Possibly...

    Got another heater cheaply, the two knacked ones will make one decent one. The 'new' matrix has better fins but leaks so will be 'fixed' with JB Weld.

    Seat bases are cut and await cushions & covers making by my other half.

    Got back on it at the wkend:
    The tank needed another coat, it got beaten up while lurking around. Lashed up a quickie hanger effort from some trampoline tubes. Bumper and bonnet can be done in one hit too.
    [​IMG]

    Bumper got a bit of hammering to make straighter, proper Lightweight ones fetch silly money but this was a good price though a bit battle scarred.

    Heater box ends grit blasted and painted. Missing hairpin spring replaced with one borrowed from circlip pliers.
    [​IMG]

    Heater vents bought, stripped/cleaned up and coated. They're black in reality, the pic colours are funny.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Back wheels taken off, changed a leaf spring bolt and put it right way round so the fuel tank should be easier to go back in. Most of the back axle, springs, drums & backplates were de-cacked and wire brushed and some of it primered.
    Glad to be back at it
     
  14. weldingscotty803

    weldingscotty803 what you staring at??????????

    nice one . nearly bought an ex mod series 3 the other day off a mate. wish i had the space.
     
  15. Robotstar5

    Robotstar5 Casanunda Staff Member

    Messages:
    17,955
    Location:
    Birmingham
    Coming along nicely, are you leaving out the rear bulkhead?
     
  16. rtbcomp

    rtbcomp Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    18,615
    Location:
    Sheffield UK
    I rewired mine from scratch, incorporating relays, rear fogs &c&c.

    I made a dummy harness from a washing line, laid it out on a large board and placed the wire alongside. All the branches were held in place with adhesive insulating tape and the whole bound with non-adhesive PVC tape.

    Pics here, starting near the bottom of the page

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/rtbcomp/
     
  17. Chipper Member

    Messages:
    1,550
    Location:
    UK
    Ta chaps. Robot, it was already cut out so I cut it some more... Made a steel frame for the seatbacks, and a rear cage, give it a bit more strength.
    Clever stuff rtbcomp, I've no confidence in wiring at all. Done mods on bikes and minor car fettling only. Gotta dive in sometime though...
     
  18. RedOrZed Member

    Messages:
    312
    Milton Keyneses
    Wiring is not as complex as you think. One wire at a time, and before you know it you've made a loom :o :laughing:

    You know about VWP I bet?

    I'd recommend a multiplug kit and a decent pair of crimpers - they even knocked off the price of the crap crimpers that came with the kit cos I bought a better set at the same time!

    I find putting in block connectors makes you feel like you're doing a "more professional" job than using bullets or spades or something.
     
  19. pedrobedro

    pedrobedro Man at Matalan

    Messages:
    10,128
    Location:
    CX Derbyshire
    I used to weld bits on a Land Rover for a friend, nothing pretty though just to keep it on the road. It's amazing how the muck gets inside the chassis box section and the back cross member with the PTO hole always rotted off, I think the water must all run to the back when they park on a slope. Wiring is pretty logical as long as you keep track of what you are doing and have plenty of fuses spare, I had two 6 way fuse boxes in my kit car and nearly used all of the slots even with no fancy bits. Proper loom tape or split conduit makes life easier. VWP as recommended is a good supplier and they are not too far from us for a trip over when I need stuff. When you test the loom clamp the earth to the battery with some mole grips so you can whip it off quick if anything starts smoking or sparking alarmingly.
     
  20. rtbcomp

    rtbcomp Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    18,615
    Location:
    Sheffield UK
    I wired a 21w bulb in series with the battery feed when I first connected my harness, so a short would light the bulb and the current would be limited to a couple of amps.
     
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