Land Rover Defender 110 Rebuild

[octo0072000]

if you are going to galve the bulkhead be warned ive seen quite a few scrapped like that as they are too thin you will have to make a cradle to keep it straight and dipped upright as in fitted to chassis

 

[KimB]

if you are going to galve the bulkhead be warned ive seen quite a few scrapped like that as they are too thin you will have to make a cradle to keep it straight and dipped upright as in fitted to chassis

Too thin for what ? Picking out of the tank ? Or warping ?

 

[balmerchris]

Good chance thin plate like a bulkhead will warp and twist badly if it is hot dip galvanised. But my local galvanising plant does a process where molten zinc is sprayed onto components that are too light or intricate. That might be am option!

 

[dboy]

Defenders had steel rear door from 2001, steel front doors from 2004. They are far better than the previous type, they are built like a proper door with a one piece galvanised pressed frame and galvanised steel skin, much stronger, shut like a proper door and have no water traps. I have three defenders, all on galvanised chassis, and have them on all of them!

Downside is they cost around £300 each second hand, but personally I wouldn't use any other door.

Correct and that's what I plan to use when I get round to doing the 90 build.

 

[octo0072000]

Too thin for what ? Picking out of the tank ? Or warping ?

warping

 

[penfold]

You need to brace across the bulkhead mounting points to avoid problems with it not fitting and the flat panels may end up with ripples in them from released internal stresses or poor dip technique; I'd buy one but everyone wants £800 for a galvy one these days. It's on the longterm list as my bulkhead is frilly but still functional.

 

[lotus_esprit_s1]

This is a brand new one I had zinc sprayed four years ago and been hanging up in storage ever since.

I'll vouch for this process, I've had five done over the years, one was a second hand one done at least ten years ago, the landrover is parked literally 5 metres from the beach all year round and there is still not a spot of rust anywhere on the bulkhead, and with no risk of distortion.

 

[KimB]

This is a brand new one I had zinc sprayed four years ago and been hanging up in storage ever since.

I'll vouch for this process, I've had five done over the years, one was a second hand one done at least ten years ago, the landrover is parked literally 5 metres from the beach all year round and there is still not a spot of rust anywhere on the bulkhead, and with no risk of distortion.

Maybe zinc plating is the way forward with the bulkhead then. Is the finish durable as if ican get that done I'd do wheel arch liners and all other steel parts ?

 

[lotus_esprit_s1]

I have always had the bulkheads zinc sprayed (not plated) and get the brackets galvanised as they wont distort. The inner wheel arches are plastic on late defenders if you can pick a pair up cheaply, save messing about with rusty old ones.

The other bonus is the zinc spraying provides a great key for paint to adhere to, again none that I have rebuilt have had any issues with flaking paint

That bulkhead is destined for my last landrover build, I've had enough of rebuilding them now, I've done five (still have four of them!).

 

[pedrobedro]

I rewired a series IIA a friend of mine built back onto a galvanised chassis and then he put a 200tdi engine in it and sold it to fund a later model which now has a 300tdi engine and running gear. He fitted a pickup cab and tub not long ago and we had some fun refitting the rear windows and new seals, He did away with the sliding window and had one cut but it was a bit big and took some shoe horning to get it in.

 

[harryb94]

I'm not that familiar with zinc spraying but if it's only covering the outside its not going to be much use for most of the bulkhead as they rust from the inside out other than of course the footwells. I welded up 3 last year and the corners are always have much more rust on the inside than the outside. If you don't get it galvanised and need to do the corners or top rail or pillars or anything like that I'd advise putting a decent coating of weld through primer on the inside over as much of it as you can

 

[KimB]

I have always had the bulkheads zinc sprayed (not plated) and get the brackets galvanised as they wont distort. The inner wheel arches are plastic on late defenders if you can pick a pair up cheaply, save messing about with rusty old ones.

The other bonus is the zinc spraying provides a great key for paint to adhere to, again none that I have rebuilt have had any issues with flaking paint

That bulkhead is destined for my last landrover build, I've had enough of rebuilding them now, I've done five (still have four of them!).

I would really like inside and out treated as It seems pointless to do outside only, may as well paint it imo.

I rewired a series IIA a friend of mine built back onto a galvanised chassis and then he put a 200tdi engine in it and sold it to fund a later model which now has a 300tdi engine and running gear. He fitted a pickup cab and tub not long ago and we had some fun refitting the rear windows and new seals, He did away with the sliding window and had one cut but it was a bit big and took some shoe horning to get it in.

I've got the same window Need to do all the seals to, not looking forward it it at all lol

I'm not that familiar with zinc spraying but if it's only covering the outside its not going to be much use for most of the bulkhead as they rust from the inside out other than of course the footwells. I welded up 3 last year and the corners are always have much more rust on the inside than the outside. If you don't get it galvanised and need to do the corners or top rail or pillars or anything like that I'd advise putting a decent coating of weld through primer on the inside over as much of it as you can

I thought the exact same thing. I have to pick the panels up tomorrow and may order some weld through paint tonight. Thanks

 

[pedrobedro]

I've got the same window Need to do all the seals to, not looking forward it it at all lol

Put the two curved pillar windows in first and it makes the back more rigid so it stays in place when you pull the wire or whatever you use out to flick the seal into place. The seal was a generic one cut off a length with no corners so we had to gaffer tape it to keep it on the glass before it was offered into the hole.

 

[Robotstar5]

Or get it electrophoretic coated? - link

 

[KimB]

Got the panels today I'll begin work Saturday or Sunday hopefully it will be done in one day. Certainly won't rush it however!

 

[harryb94]

Looks like you have a fair bit of work there! I did a bulkhead for a mate which one of the corners looked similar to yours, when I cut it out there's another post type bit inside and that had some holes in too, might be worth checking also if you haven't already run a wire wheel or something over the top rail, I found one of mine didn't look too bad but when I took a wire wheel over it what looked like solid metal turned out to be really thin from rusting from the inside out

 

[balmerchris]

That's going to be fun! Happy welding!

 

[octo0072000]

you will be lucky to do that in a day more rot there than you think
make a brace to fit across the windscreen bolt holes and one for the bottom bolts to the out riggers
to keep it straight

 

[KimB]

Thanks for all the advice guys I'll make a brace for it and make sure I cut it all out, I'll take a load of photos.
Where would everyone recommend starting ?

 

[Cobbler]

Hi Kim, posting your photos would be good, interesting to see how you get on, I've patched up one or two in situ, but your into major surgery! Keep up the good work.