k series mini

  1. Dr pepper Member

    lancashire - uk
    I have done this with a honda vtec and a rover T series turbo from a 620, interesting the way you have done it with a modded a series sub frame, all the ones I've seen have used the customary rover metro subby, the T series I did used a MGF rear subframe which is a reinforced version of a rover metro front subby, you just have to replace the lower wishbone and grind off the plate rover weld on to cover the steering rack holes. I had all kinds of troubles with the rovers ignition and security, it had a transponder ignition immobiliser and a stack of relays.
    Later MGF's have coil spring susp's, could be usefull, the MGF also uses the PG1 gearbox and is a lot better than the rover R65 thats fitted to most of the K series, and you dont even need to have drive shafts made.
    You also managed to get the rad up front, thats a really good idea, nothing but trouble with rear rads.
    At least you had the engine with the plastic inlet fanimold, the ports are diffo in the head, they are sposed to be the better of the 2.
    It'll be worth the effort for the vvc engine, they are a lot quicker, it'll be fun.
  2. chrisg3103

    chrisg3103 Forum Supporter

    indeed, i have 2 mgf rear frames sitting about, had a plan of making a twin engine T series with an mgf rear and a metro fron fram mounted in an estate. another pipe dream at the moment

    all my cunning plans with the oil filter didnt work so just stuck the 1.6 back in to have something to use on the thistle run.
    ground the bit of the back of the gearbox, sealed the thermostat housing and also fixed a leaky downpipe and cleaned up the ehaust flanges. while the exhaust was off took the chance to free up a rather annoying sqeek in the gear linkage, was like having a pet mouse! smooth and squeek free now :D

    cleaned up the cam cover and gave it a very very spray :lol: looks a bit better, also splashed out £3 on some stainless cap head bolts from the local bolt shop.
    all going well till i start going about the car torquing the nuts and bolts, track rod end just kept spinning..... thought it was just the taper turning in the arm but nooooo, threads had gone! so managed to 'aquire' one. will try get a new one tomorrow, if not the slightly old one will do. engine starts and runs, no water leaks and the gearbox dosnt clunk anymore :D


    also had a random moment and sprayed the fugly pipe with the blue paint :lol: actualy looks a bit better! didnt exactly mask very well though :whistle:
  3. good job, shows what can be done if you want to do it ;)