k series mini

  1. chrisg3103

    chrisg3103 Forum Supporter

    well theres a few car projects on here and there is a bit of welding in mine, its a mini after all! original build diarys here - http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12599&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
    but for slightly lazyer people ill copy and paste about a 9 months progress in one uber post :laughing:

    just a warning there may be some answers to questions that arnt here due to the copy/paste format ;) will update in real time from now if theres any interest in in this sort of shenanigans, so here it is -

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    about time i started do do some work on the poor old mini, been neglected the past year. started at the weekend by the relativly easy task of removing the engine, you would think...... must have had it in for me for neglecting it, poor kev never heard so much swearing :lol:
    few pics of what took a whole day! -

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    the before shot

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    after much blood and swearing

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    the worying quantity of coolant from a K! plus the consistancy and colour of chocolate milkshake, was pink when it went in

    list of jobs to do before the thistle run in may, engine and electrics changed, sort the crap brakes and maby make a new frame. lots of other jobs too but i WILL have the mini at MITP this year!

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    been realy busy just getting the thing de rusted and generly sorted out, got a week on sunday before the thistle run so working all hours to get it mot'd taxed and insured :lol:

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    bottom derusted subframe in and the front to rear pipes heat shrunk and fitted, with brass brake unions! damn steel ones were siezed after only 2 years

    started off this evening to get the radius arms on, captive nuts were full of paint so had to tap them out again, then the damn thing snaped :shock: :evil: managed to get the stub out thank god
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    this evenings work
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    ready to tip over tomorrow, should be interesting

    also go the engine timed up
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    this evenings dooings -
    got some disposable wheels on and started the tipping, dubious use of the a frame :P
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    tarted up the bulkhead with some realy old paint and hardner that had turned to some form of jelly, still works quite well though!
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    ground out the block for the alternator, got manifold on and swaped the engine mount
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  2. chrisg3103

    chrisg3103 Forum Supporter

    some alternator pics first off -
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    need to take out quite a large chunk, and thats a suzuki vitara alternator btw, rover ones huge. cant remember what size the belt is, think its 640mm? just measured the size with a bit of string and went to my friendly motor factors, had a look through there books for a belt near the size

    other things ive been up to this evening -
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    subframe in and changed the bottom arm bushes for some fancy offset ones, not sure what they will do but made getting the pin in a lot harder

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    engine in :D

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    thought there would be a lot more room with the mpi but apparently not! think its because my engine is more to the right than most others, my timing covers almost under the wing. actualy had to grind a bit of the bulkhead to get clearance, now i got the engine steady in position i found i need to grind a touch more. still, looks a damn sight better than that ugly lump of a spi :P

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    some more nice pictures -
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    all suspension and whatnot in and on its wheels :D clutch arm looked a bit far forward so was scared i disturbed the release bearing when swaping the box. pedal box in and the clutch works fine, im just paraniod

    also started on the adjustable bias valve -
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    unscrewed the gubins and put them to one side in a little brake fluid bath, drilled a hole ready to tap when i get my hands on a new 5/16 tap, got a finer thread than metric so better adjustment. also got a 3/8 bleed nipple for the balnked off side.

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    valve in position, made a little bracket. not bothering to heatshrink those pipes cause i ran out of brass fittings so will be coming off once i order some more.
    also got the header tank sorted and in postition, had to scarper early today (6pm) so brought some homework back :lol: -
    [​IMG]

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    sucess! :D after a whole day of bad language i got it cracked 8) damn imobiliser, starter relay was supposed to earth through it but wasnt. earthed it elswere and it cranked, then BOOM! roared into life, nearly paped myself :lol: no exhaust or anything
    state of play when i got it running -
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    started tidying away the wiring nightmare and got the brake pipes all in too-
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    all the nasty jobs done now going to book the MOT for friday :shock:

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    to be totaly honest with myself the chances are slim, but ill go down fighting! been up since 5 and thats me just in, just phyisicaly impossible to squeeze any more hours out of a day :cry: engine now starts on key with all the wiring in its new position, brake lights seem to have been mixed with the indicators but all just fine tuning :lol: managed to plank on a universal air filter from halfords that seems to double as a battery retaining device -
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    got the windows in and doors on, makes yo feel better to be working on something that resembles a car now. MOT friday at 2:30 and its do or die, no retest on the saturday so if it fails then no run, assuming i make it to the test station. im off to bed, up in 5 hours
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2008
  3. chrisg3103

    chrisg3103 Forum Supporter

    well go it to the MOT! up till 2.30 getting it ready last night/this morning, started at the back end and made sure everything was perfect, took so long to get the front end i was shatterd and missed a shoogly ball joint. also didnt tighten one of the braided hoses the right way so it was rubbing on the crank pully :shock: didnt have a working temp gauge as the sensor was missing and damn car shop had the wrong one, had the ecu sender so was relying on the ecu to turn on the fan if it got a bit heated, no such luck. just in the door 5 mins and sudenly steam start pouring from under the bonnet,managed to hotwire the fan to run constantly and tyred to start it again, so hot it was seizing up, finaly got it going with a battery booster and ran fine throughout with the fan running. was a brown trouser moment
    well a quick shim later and the minis ready for the retest, turns out the guy will have a quick look tomorrow and pass it so thistle run here i come :D

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    been having cooling issues with this new engine so thought id change the thermostat after the bottom hose went stone cold and the temp through the roof. how do you change a k mini thermostat? with great dificulty! hell of a job even in a standard rover, what the hell were these engine designers on when they came up with the idea to put the thermostat round the back of the block !? so had to do this -
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    also no one noticed the obviouse mistake in my previouse pics, here it is again -
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    can you tell what it is yet :wink:

    also been tinkering with the lambda seeing as the engine was out, think it still works! tested it very carefully with the heat from a blowlamp, produced a voltage so its doing something at least. heres what a sensor with no end cap looks like -
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    shrinks it a good bit but you loose the sensor earth, hence the jubile clip holding a wire to the body :P
    means can use the original location and the wires dont hit the block -
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    just need to finish putting the car back together and see if the head gaskets still alive :shock:

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    ok got the place to myself now and can work on the mini again :D suppose thats what you get when your dads your landlord, his car gets priority :lol:

    got about 3 weeks to mitp so its full steam ahead and hope for the best, after a final run out with mr bhp hunter started to demolish the dodgy bits of the car that i want sorted. lots more but shall be concentrating on the flip front, doors, A panels, battery relocation and cooling

    first of the cooling issue ive been having, started to look into it and pretty sure its just a sensor problem :D had the idea of trying to jam the original spi sensor into the mpi elbow by padding out the thread with loads of ptfe tape -
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    was a bit shoogly when screwed in and i didnt fancy putting pressure behind it :shock:

    next step was a bit more scientific :lol:
    measured the resistance of the 2 sensors at room temp and then put them in a little pot of boiling water -
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    turns out there is a huge diferance! room temp for spi sensor is 1.7k ohm
    mpi is 0.7, hot temp spi is 200 ohm mpi 100ohm
    so best bet is probably to try and fit a later gauge into my clocks

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    got allt he gubbins striped off the car, looks a bit sorry for itself -
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    doors wernt realy bad but still in need of repair so going to atempt to reskin them -
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    probably the worst bits, bottom hinge studs snaped as well

    took out the battery and the tray-
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    look at the space! get a nice supercharger in there :wink:

    and finaly been very busy with the flip front, quite chuffed with how its going. got a pair of boot hinges from an audi a4 donated by the finn and they are perfect, thought the rams might be too powerfull but its like they were made for it. early days and i only got 1 hinge on but its a start

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    the remains of my first atempt many years ago when i was trying reliant schimtar hinges, studs were too feeble and just snaped off

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    had to extend a bit to mount the audi hinges, about the only thing that clubman was good for, sheet metal :lol:

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    just bolted straight throught the wing to test the opperation, smooth as silk no part of the front rubs or touches as it flips 8)

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    gaps need seing too but thats the least of the problems, hopefully get the hinges mounted properly tomorrow then its just figuring out the latching and locating guides

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    yep, big weight and a bit of the linkage rods live in there. if your determined enough could probably fart about with the selector to make it so you dont need to cut the bulkhead.
    rads a mini mpi

    got thinking about gaps and came to the conclusion it would look better to have the A panels welded to the wings, but to get everything gapped up properly i need the doors done first so started them

    never done a door skin before and was very supprised to find there just glued on! a weld either side at the top and 2 little spot welds, probably just to position the skin while the edge is folded round the frame. so gound round the edges and they just fell off -

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    the worst bit, more rotten than i thought
    made some repair sections and welded them in, waste not want not :lol:

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    gave the edges a good coat of por-15 and slaped some on the skins too-

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    see if i can be arsed to go there tomorrow evening

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    got the door skins on and got the 2 hinges on :) front flips and stays up on its own now, only thing is the rams are actualy too weedy! will just hold the bare front up, clamped an A panel on to se how it would look and it started to fall down. need to concoct some form of detent mechanism

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    also when buying disposable clamps for welding from the local self destructing cheap tool shop i got a load of screwdrivers, this is what was on the back :lol:
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    zoom in on the warranty and what not, i know there cheap but would think they could of asked someone to proof read the packaging :lol:
     
  4. chrisg3103

    chrisg3103 Forum Supporter

    ok got the front hinges sorted, made some little brackets and welded captive bolts inside them -

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    try not to show any close up pics of my snottery welds :lol: fkn welder being an **** :evil:
    anyway, welded them to the wings after much fidling and fettling. put the bonnet on and it fliped without pinching :D think its still pinching it a touch but can adjust it with washers if need be

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    passenger A panel pretty much fell off so i had a go with how it would work with the A panels welded to the wings

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    looks pretty damn good if i do say so 8) needs a bit of work to stop the corners of the A panel catching as it flips but easy enough. gaps are pretty good too

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    drivers is the worst but a bit of work with some filler and a big hammer pretty sure i can get the gaps spot on

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    well after a extremely frustrating afternoon ive decided to secure the front with stainless security head bolts along the A panel for the time being. the whole hidden latch system will work but will take far more time to perfect than i got before MITP.
    got a nice DA sander ariving tomorrow so i can set about the paint instead 8)
    oh and mr 1010cc you pass the test, everyone else fails (a test.... yes... that should work) A panels stay on the car

    heres about 4 hours of work!?-

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    an abortion more like :lol: rather take my time and come up with a more elegant system. got that 1 side working, just not happy with the gaps, need to make locating pins, make some kind of release handle for the cable ect...

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    well past few days have been a case if filling and sanding, followed by some more filling and then some more sanding. got the bits in primer this evening, not a great result but its all getting flatted back anyway, lovley 2k filler primer hides all scratches 8)

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    and im well aware there will be 2 seatbelt size gaps in the paint :wink:

    then as with all painting operations this happened -

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    little barsteward! lucky that paint sets quick, managed to take off without leaving its legs behind. and how the hell do you paint a mini roof without geting cripling cramps trying to stretch over it and hold a gun full of paint :lol:

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    blended the wedges, too damn impatient though so not the best job. during winter will do a more thorough job

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    well got some colour back into the panels, not a very smooth colour but better than nothing (maby) one problem i over looked, i got a nice big compressor little while ago to run tools and spray, but forgot its oil lubricated.....
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    now got little specks in the paint as well as the orange peelness, winter will be a busy time :oops:
    and no way the roofs getting done so its primer till i get back :lol: balls to it
    desperate to get it back together, started poking about when the paint was touch dry but had to resist the urge to start fitting parts onto soft paint :(
    so build it tomorrow with thursday to spare and drive down to cambridge on friday :shock:

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    well ive had a week to recover (my hearing mainly) and i finaly got down to see the mini again, after a trip to the culzean classic car show which was total pants for autojumble :cry: got a packet of metro brake pad shims and pins for £1 and 6 packets of disposable cheep drill bits for £5, not good pickings for a £10 entry fee! anyway, i digress....

    got some photos of how it looks now -
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    front up
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    then i started getting fancy :lol:
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    was a quick fix but i actualy quite like the button head bolts now (even the squinty one) and the little flag i stuck over the side repeater hole dosnt look to bad either :oops:
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    time to recoup my moneys and start collecting bits for the next project :wink:
     
  5. Coo

    Coo Member

    Messages:
    751
    Fife
    Nice ! ... interesting flip front..

    I've not seen them flip that way before, makes sense though.
     
  6. homer Member

    Looks nice. And the flip front is original and easy access to everything!
    Great job, keep posting the progress.
     
  7. chrisg3103

    chrisg3103 Forum Supporter

    ok, forgot about this for a while so heres an update. and it involves a lot of welding :D

    planned on starting to get jig building a few months ago, but this happened -

    [​IMG]

    so after much rover fixing and recouping of insurance excess (pesky learners) i finaly got started!

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    as far as i got before the heater packed in and my hands went numb! now have to try and fix the fkn heater!
    .......................................................................................................

    after avoiding the frame for a while i actualy did something today!
    made the other 1/4 of the jig
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    not the best of welds but they dont need to look pretty
    then after much staring and thinking i figured out how to jig the tie bar position, might not look much but this was quite tricky
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    lovley jubbly
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    and this is what i was up to instead of subframe building :ashamed:
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    used half my supply of 20x20 box making an unecessary trolly :laughing: hopefully be getting a move on from now on. got more exciting things to be doing :D
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    got the (a series) jig finished! :D
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    fully spinable and stuff
    then i went to take the frame out of the jig :ashamed: yep, id welded the bottom mounts on the wrong side and its stuck :laughing:

    then shoved the camera under my 214 to see the rear engine steady
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    looks a lot slimmer than the metro one that i used first time round
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    but that metro steady has kept the engine solid, might be huge but its good :) (and in my defence those last welds were done 3 years ago and havnt died yet after much abuse!)
     
  8. Marky

    Marky Member

    Messages:
    179
    Scotland
    chris 1

    1st ... what a workshop!!!!!

    2nd . . .how good is the body roller for getting to the underside properly ... I was lying on a cold floor ... i got it all wrong lol

    3rd .. looking good matey and i hope your putting throttle bodies on that thing with trumpets .
     
  9. chrisg3103

    chrisg3103 Forum Supporter

    if by body roller you mean the A frame and the chain block, that was just because i was on my own and half dead at the time. normaly tip a mini with myself and a mate, 2 of us tipped my mates onto his lawn the other week with 2 fully built subframes :laughing: just about manageable. makes any jobs sooo much easier.
    as for the workshop its not all mine :whistle: me and 2 mates are chipping in to rent the place ;) very reasonalble with 3 of you. and free rates this year! :clapping:

    engines staying nice and injected, reason i drifted from the A series is the constant search for more. spend silly money and end up with an engine thats the same power as a £100 k series. and is likely to break down a lot more as its been so heavily modified, dont get me started on the gearbox!
    so saying i do like a nice original looking 850 engine bay thats nothing bar an engine :laughing: looks so empty
     
  10. tazzy-lee Member

    Messages:
    50
    NORTHAMPTON
    looks great mate
     
  11. chrisg3103

    chrisg3103 Forum Supporter

    been a while so thought id update a bit
    well ive been busy today
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    this is becoming a familliar sight :laughing: but i have a plan, hopefully be able to weld up all the holes on the bulkhead and have all the cables and pipes running into the car behind the engine. want to make the engine bay as minimalist as possible :D

    also give this thing a good scrub up seeing as its prooved itself
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    nearly got the rover loom out, been picking away at it. and got a couple of rolls of loom tape coming so i will shrink it and rearange it so that there arnt huge knots all over the place.

    one of my cunning plans to minimise the bulkhead is to use an internal master cylinder, as im skint and wouldnt even pay if i had the cash im experimenting with the rover 200 pedal box ;)
    going quite well
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    at that the master cylinder will poke into the engine bay behind the engine about 2 cm, just need to make a little bulkhead box
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    and the 200 pedal box has the cable clutch set up already there :D just need to cut a hole for the funky gromet that it uses and the clutch cable will run round the back of the engine too.
    or thats the plan at least :ashamed:

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    had another go tonight and got the pedal box finished
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    mostly 3 and 4mm plate, should hold up. quite pleased with it :D can adjust the slack in the pedal with the brake light switch, do like a firm pedal

    also had a quick hack at the bulkhead to see how much clearance there is behind the engine
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    loads! but as i thought its right in front of the thermostat heater pipe, not a problem though. will box the entire area but need the skills of fireman finn to stop things catching fire as i plasma :o
    also as i can now ditch the mini pedal box i can cut into the top of the crossmember a bit more for more manifold clearance and dont need to raise my engine, which will mean front end work which i cant be arsed with right now :whistle:

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    did some butchery today
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    :o

    got rid of that horrible clutch cable bracket, choped the hole for the bulkhead box and seeing as i no longer need the mini pedal box stud holes i cut back a little further to get more manifold clearance. not so painfull once you make the first cut :(

    welded up the top half and made a box for the lower bit
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    who needs CAD :cool:

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    i do :ashamed: :laughing: balls'd up one of the flaps but should be salvagable
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    fits well
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    and room round the tower too :D
    just need to grind off the zinc and weld it up
     
  12. simon718

    simon718 needs to stay off ebay

    Messages:
    2,015
    Norn' Iron
    you are giving me ideas chris :whistle: nice work
     
  13. Robotstar5

    Robotstar5 Casanunda Staff Member

    Messages:
    17,819
    Location:
    Birmingham
    Have you read any of the David Vizard books?, he has done some boxing of the dash to accomodate velocity stacks I think - might give you a few ideas.
    I will have a look in the books if you need any info.
     
  14. chrisg3103

    chrisg3103 Forum Supporter

    got his tuning the A series book, one of the reasons i got the k :laughing: was starting to get crazy compicated and expensive to just get a bit of power out of the thing. bulkhead boxing is going well, learn through your mistakes and one of mine was not chopping enough. should all be fixed tomorrow ;)
     
  15. chrisg3103

    chrisg3103 Forum Supporter

    got busy with the curve bit today
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    nice sandpaper based template
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    and hey presto :laughing:
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    not much to look at but took most of the day, got some lovley beads on the mild steel part but the galvanised box was a nightmare, even though i had gound off the zinc. never again :mad: but one day flap discs will rule the world! magic devices :clapping:
    didnt want to go too mental on the welds incase they got a bit thin, will only need a thin skim of filler to hide them. welding can be enjoyable when it goes right :laughing:
     
  16. chrisg3103

    chrisg3103 Forum Supporter

    spot of tinkering tonight trying to figure out how to mount the pedal box, got it sussed but hardest part is figuring the best position for the pedals!

    after some playing about i found something very interesting, im using the rover pedal box purely as it was easy to convert to an internal master cylinder and it has a nice cable clutch point already there. didnt think about were the pedals pivot till now
    dont know about anyone else but i have always found the minis pedals to be very high, hitting the back of the steering wheel with your knee changing gear :laughing:
    when i had the rover pedals in i had them fairly low down and they still had full travel, turns out it is because the pivot is a lot further forward
    heres my theory -

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    and the two boxes -
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    pedals lower and nearer the bulkead with room for my size 10s :D
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    just hope it does al work out as planned, be a ****** to try and reinstate the mini stuff :ashamed:
     
  17. chrisg3103

    chrisg3103 Forum Supporter

    got the pedal mounted and solid, looks horrendouse though so i wont be showing the mountings :whistle:
    did a bit of reaserch (measured the height of a rover and an audi clutch pedal) and found they were both exactly 15cm off the floor, mini one seems to be 18cm. so set my clutch to 15cm, time will tell if it is indeed any better!

    it did mean i could finaly cut the hole for the clutch cable and see if it actually fitted
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    nice neat rover gromet :cool:
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    and it fits! :D well, kind of :laughing: will be precariously located between the gear linkage rods, so long as its straped to the bulkhead with some clips it should be fine.
    still room behind there to run the heater pipes through and the engine wiring loom, the back of the k series seems to be a very underutilized space
    also checked my upgraded cutout
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    thats the engine tilted so far back the sump hits off the front of the subframe, loads of room :clapping:

    but.....

    happy that things were going well i started to finish off the bulkhead patching
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    and promptly ran out of welding wire :mad: could have rebuilt my shafts or striped my suspension but had enough and ******ed off home :(
     
  18. Oz1275

    Oz1275 Member

    Messages:
    80
    Manchester
    Love it dude some great ideas and a lot of time going into this! I always live by the saying do it for yourself and no one else! very unique indeed.
     
  19. chrisg3103

    chrisg3103 Forum Supporter

    again forgot about this thread, till the 16v forum got hacked! this little thread prooved a nice little backup ;) so thought id better update it

    theres been a fck up!

    got round to rebuilding my shafts today and thought id give them the once over to check for straightness

    short shaft was 0.2mm out

    but long shaft was 1.05mm :shock:

    0 clock
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    right round to 5
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    know its running on rust but cleaned it all and was the same
    time to make a new shaft!

    could maby straighten it but the splines on one end got a bit mashed when a heavy handed welder friend decided to batter the shaft into the sleeve the first time round :laughing:
     
  20. chrisg3103

    chrisg3103 Forum Supporter

    well after much drama, lazyness and dermatitis i did something today! :o
    got about a month till its to be going down the strip at santa pod then its of to barkston heath for a track day :cool:

    not a huge amount but im now back in the swing of things
    finished welding the holes, mixed up the last of the filler and plastered it on :laughing:
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    also something i did a while ago, removed the bonnet pin brackets. were annoying me, but they proceded to take most of the gutter with them :cry:
    so the worst one i made a new corner for
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    actually turned out rather well :D
    this is the other untouched side, side i had to replace was worse
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    was thinking about making a new corner for this too but its a lot of work and time
    after all the setbacks ive had its now time to go hell for leather again and just get the thing on the road. beutification can wait till the winter (that was the plan last time :? )

    anyone want to come down and lend a hand you can have all the irn bru you can drink :D
     
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