RaceDiagnostics
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Just the GW number matters, the others are for date code and manufacturing site etc.
- Thread starter Onoff
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RaceDiagnostics
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These big parts going into thick copper can be a pain to desolder. I just cut off the old parts leaving the leads in the PCB then trimmed the new parts and soldered onto the old leads.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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High temperature solder used originally d'you think?
angellonewolf
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would think standard as is got a fan to keep the temp down where the components are
RaceDiagnostics
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Yes, just standard solder but it's tricky getting enough heat in quickly when there is a lot of mass.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Had the cover off again to get the number off that other IGBT(?) The one far right in the second picture. So :
"H20R1203 / H9E143"
@RaceDiagnostics when you say "rectifier", what are then the 4 RL207 diodes for below the two electrolytics on the right, just above the earth lead PCB terminal?
Just wondering too about the small circled transformer. Looks maybe a tad toasty?
"H20R1203 / H9E143"
@RaceDiagnostics when you say "rectifier", what are then the 4 RL207 diodes for below the two electrolytics on the right, just above the earth lead PCB terminal?
Just wondering too about the small circled transformer. Looks maybe a tad toasty?
RaceDiagnostics
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It's likely that the individual diodes are part of a low voltage power supply for the control electronics. The big 4 leg part on the heat sink rectifies the mains that goes to the igbts for switching into the induction coils.
RaceDiagnostics
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Ps, sent off the bridge rectifier to you today.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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addjunkie
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Much as I understand your desire to fix this, and the learning in the process, you would get your dinner cooked probably more quickly if you went to screwfix and spent £149.99, on a new one!Cheers, top man
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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If I have to buy one it'll be a £400 ish Bosch jobbie to match the other appliances.
And if he buys one he won't be able to go to the pub for his tea every night for the next 6 weeks either.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Received this thanks. All other bits ordered and on their way. One part, the UK eBay seller has given me a compatible component:
"I came to pack it and discovered the exact value of 20R1203 was out of stock, but I do have an exact compatible, next one up in the series, Infinion H20R1353, being 1350V max and 20A (the H20R1203 is 1200V max and 20A max).
Infinion in its datasheet, specifically mention the 20R1353 has "•Offers new higher breakdown voltage to1350V for improved reliability". A copy of the front page of the datasheet is attached".
