Honda stepwagon rusty sills HELP

  1. wacky7791

    wacky7791 Member

    Messages:
    92
    Location:
    QLD australia
    Looking at the pic you are pointing in i would say get a thin length of wood thats the same width as the indent in the sill, lay the sill face down on it and bend the sill over it to get the shape. The sill looks to need 2 folds with about an inch and a half gap between them
     
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  2. C4irney

    C4irney Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Glasgow
    Sorry guys it's been a bit quiet on my part but only because I've been working on the wagon. Got the sills to a shape I'm almost happy with and got it welded to the car. I managed to make the contour by propping the panel on lengths of wood, welding a spark plug socket to a 3/8 extension with the chunky bit cut off then hammers a groove the whole way along. Actually turned out alrite, here's some pics up to where I stopped last night, just having a coffee then going back to it. Excuse the welding, I'm new and haven't buffed/grinded the welds yet.

    My young nephew has started showing a keen interest in working on cars so let him help me yesterday, even let him practice welding on some scrap, he was chuffed to bits.
     
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  3. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    1,895
    Location:
    london
    Excellent....this is my kind of build. I'm always making custom tools to do stuff....really well done indeed. Its amazing whats achievable with simple tools and a bit of thinking....you must be a happy man.
     
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  4. pondy

    pondy Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,491
    Location:
    chedburgh, suffolk. uk
    that looks excellent,
     
  5. steveo3002 Member

    Messages:
    5,028
    cambridge uk
    nice work shaping up that sill
     
  6. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    @C4irney Coming along nicely. If that's the young fella having a play, give him some gloves.......;)
     
  7. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    1,895
    Location:
    london
    Some gloves....and an auto dimming mask too maybe?

    I'm not really in a good position to criticise on safety....after I set fire to my ripped jeans yesterday while welding a gate latch...with no gloves, in my t-shirt....but I did have an auto mask on of course!
     
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  8. Screwdriver

    Screwdriver Member

    Messages:
    5,007
    UK London
    Blimey. You come in here asking how to do something because you don't know how, then you do an amazing job in next to no time!
     
    C4irney likes this.
  9. steveo3002 Member

    Messages:
    5,028
    cambridge uk
    wonder if mods could make the sill pics a sticky /faq or something , id have never attempted to tackle that and youve made it look reasonbly easy for someone at home to repair the car without having moutains of tools etc
     
    C4irney likes this.
  10. steveo3002 Member

    Messages:
    5,028
    cambridge uk
    what thickness steel is it please- might have to do the same one day!
     
  11. C4irney

    C4irney Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Glasgow
    Thanks for the comments guys, really appreciate it. In hindsight I should've gave the young fella some gloves but he was just bursting to have a go. Whilst I'm delighted how it turned out, the sill took me the best part of a day to shape, and played with it some more the next day. I find that if I don't really know what I'm doing, if I take my time and think it through it usually pans out lol. Don't know how much of it was skill and how much of it was luck lol.

    Got the sill pretty much finished being welded on and grinded the welds down. Still some pin holes to sort but it seems like I weld a pin hole, grind it down and another one just shows back up lol. So far so good though

    Steel thickness is 0.8mm
     
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  12. C4irney

    C4irney Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Glasgow
    Needing a bit of advice guys, at what point do you call the repair good? The panel is in, it's solid and I'll happy with it but these pin holes are a nightmare!! I re-weld them and grind them down but another one appears. Would take ages to cover them all and I'm also worried about grinding the panel to much and thinning it down. I'm also concerned about just putting filler over it as any moisture from the back could cause problems.

    Also I've sprayed the backs of the panel with zinc primer but what about the exposed welds on the inside? I'm going to remove the interior and treat the backsides of the welds with bilt hamber dynax s50, I'll be able to treat most of it but concerned about the part under the door I can't really get to. Also the other side has a sliding door so access to treat the backside is also restricted. What do you guys do??
     
  13. steveo3002 Member

    Messages:
    5,028
    cambridge uk
    epoxy it before any filler goes on , once painted drown the insides with a cavity wax thats nice and thin , any chance you could make a access hole here and there to spray it then fit rubber grommets ?
     
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  14. cumbriasteve

    cumbriasteve Moderator

    Messages:
    9,660
    Location:
    Cumbria UK
    With pin holes I used to centre pop them to form them into a recess, it allows the weld to have some depth and avoid breaking through when flatting back.
     
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  15. C4irney

    C4irney Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Glasgow
    Luckily the rear wheel arches already have an access hole, about an inch in diameter covered by a rubber grommet and the dynax stuff comes with a long tube to spray it in. Just seems like a gamble as to whether I've got it all covered or not.
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  16. steveo3002 Member

    Messages:
    5,028
    cambridge uk
    roar a few holes along the bottom edge....my vw has grommets from the factory so no issues there

    did you fashion some drainage holes in the welded edge to let any water out ?
     
  17. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    1,895
    Location:
    london
    When I did my sill I just welded up the larger holes and then filled....I then used a ton of cavity wav inside the sill panel (I stuck the wax can in a bucket of warm water before applying it). So far I've had no problems and the repair was done 3-4 years ago.

    With the pin holes what I did was dial the welder up a touch and back off the wire feed so it gets a bit hotter...where there is existing weld it shouldn't blow through as easily. Your aim has to be pretty good...I think punching the panel is a good idea as it gives a recess for the new weld to pool vs just going over the top of what is already there but not into the steel behind (I'm going to borrow that idea I think).

    Well thats how I did it....others probably have different ways!
     
  18. mike 109444

    mike 109444 Member

    Messages:
    4,086
    uk Bristol
    Couple of points
    DON'T run a welder from a coiled up extension lead !! It may over heat.
    To fill the pin holes get your assistant to use a 1 foot length of copper pipe with the end flattened for about 2 inches and bent at a right angle. This can be held tight up against the back (once panes removed!) where the pin hole is and you fire a quick blob of weld at the pin hole.The copper will absorb the heat and reduce blow through but will not weld to the steel. Note the copper pipe will get hot pretty quick so have a bucket of water to dip it in. A bright light from one side should allow location of the pin holes.
     
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  19. C4irney

    C4irney Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Glasgow
    So this epoxy primer, can I just buy it in a rattle can and apply it before I take it to the body shop??

    Been making some more progress, I grinded back the passenger sill and there's was a load of little patches that I'd need to make which I think woulda been more hassle than replacing the whole sill so cut the lot off and I'm glad I did. The backside was completely covered in rust!! If I just done a few patches, I woulda been doing some more in the new future.

    Passenger sill is almost completely on but ran out of gas!! Surely that can't be right?? It's one of the large hobby weld bottles, my last bottle lasted me 3 years although I didn't do a lot of welding, this one lasted 2 days.

    I've grinded back some rust bubbles on the arch to see how bad it is. Think I'm best just making small patch sections to replace the parts that have bubbled rather than trying to get fancy making wheel arches
     
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  20. C4irney

    C4irney Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Glasgow
    More pics
     
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    slim_boy_fat likes this.
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