Honda stepwagon rusty sills HELP

  1. RussT

    RussT Member

    Messages:
    62
    Location:
    East Seaxe
    If you are replacing 2 whole sills and originality isnt a big problem then just finding some sills with the right width/ depth roughly would be a hell of a lot easier than fabing up some from scratch. As long as both sides match then the actual profile of the originals isn't a big deal
     
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  2. ranchero Member

    Messages:
    79
    Location:
    southampton
    measure the lengthand make a profile of sill. then visit your local friendly body panel supplier and see what is closed
     
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  3. Shedendman

    Shedendman Member

    Messages:
    3,552
    east sussex
    As the last 2 chaps and including myself have said,get some sort of replacement sills,from what i've seen in the photos you've cut out what you see is bad on the outside,trust me,its whats inside you cant see is the worry.
    So its based on a cr-v(possibly?) ,then get sills for that model that matches close(both sides),at least then you'll have less to form plus the flanges are done for you,you're going to be dam lucky to fab these up and have an exact match(both sills).
    I'm only given you this advice as you've said you've not much experience in this line of work,yer top marks for giving it a go,but its a deep pond your jumping in with no armbands:whistle:
    This steel you've ordered is it zintec,have you tried welding this stuff before?
     
  4. C4irney

    C4irney Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Glasgow
    I appreciate any advice mate so don't worry about it. I stuck my phone on camera mode and popped it up inside the quarter panel to see where the rust ended and cut up to there. From my cut upwards its fresh inside. I've been hunting online for sills that even look similar but think to even get it close I'd need to have it in my hands to offer upto the car just to see how it would match up. I will be replacing both sills so not bothered about my contours looking exactly like OEM, just want it to look decent
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  5. Shedendman

    Shedendman Member

    Messages:
    3,552
    east sussex
    Cool,are you also doing the filling and painting to?
     
  6. C4irney

    C4irney Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Glasgow
    My sister works in the office of a large garage that takes on a lot of insurance work with a dedicated paint booth, she said all the guys are brand new and would do a homer painting it for me. I've done loads of painting in the past but not used filler, I'm guessing a pro with body filler could make a welded mess look reasonable so I'm still undecided. Might give it a go myself with filler and rattle cans and if it doesn't turn out nice I could have them tidy it up
     
  7. pedrobedro

    pedrobedro Man at Matalan

    Messages:
    9,793
    Location:
    CX Derbyshire
    Easy sand filler nowadays with some 80 grit paper makes filling a lot easier than it used to be and if you've done the welding yourself you know it's not covering somebody else's bodge work, just your own. :D
     
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  8. C4irney

    C4irney Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Glasgow
    Little update, I phoned Honda regarding replacement sills, they only have 1 side showing up on the system with no price beside it which means they've been discontinued. Phoned a local body panel repair place and as I thought he'd never heard of a stepwagon, asked if I could show him the profile to try match it but he didn't sound interested.

    Also sorted the intermittent cutting out problem, my guess it was the ignition control module inside the dizzy and I was right . Went to the scrappies and stripped the dizzy from a newer accord, looks like Honda revised the design as its a different brand and roughly the right size. Took a little bit of modification as the part the screws go through are thicker so had to grind it down but she's running sweet without cutting out.

    Old ignition control module on the left
     
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    slim_boy_fat and cumbriasteve like this.
  9. galooph

    galooph Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    418
    Location:
    Alsager, UK
  10. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    1,884
    Location:
    london
    Good result on the replacement module...well done.

    On my toyota I just bent a flange in the sheet metal, clamped it to the car (with every pair of mole grips that I owned!) and then just pushed it around the existing sill with my feet while lying on the floor. Worked a treat + nice and simple too.....once the metal has roughly the correct shape it's a lot easier to then give it a tweak to make it perfect.

    I'm also a big fan of Jap cars...they definitely rot from the inside out (like ripe pears in the sun). Whats strange is you'll see the worst rot and right next to it the metal will be factory fresh....it's very odd!
     
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  11. C4irney

    C4irney Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Glasgow
    I've never even heard of that website before, cheers for that, although I'm not sure if my phone is loading that website right as it's quite hard to understand/navigate the stepwagon section.

    That's my plan if I can't get a sill, just a 2m length sheet, bend a flange to clamp it onto the car and bend it round the little bit of sill I've left then tidy it up when it's roughly there. In my head it seems relatively straight forward but I know all to well than trying it may be a very different story lol
     
  12. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    1,884
    Location:
    london
    C4...it worked for me. Back when I did my MR2 MK2 the sills weren't available. I only needed a half section but pretty sure it would work for a full length. I have an MR2 project thread somewhere but if you take a look at the results it was basically identical to the OEM sill when I joined in the repair. I think it works well provided the sill is a nice smooth profile (i.e. no steps or 90 degree bends etc). Your sills actually look quite a lot like my mr2 from the pics.

    The MR2 was my first project too....what I learned along the way is that it's a lot easier to form the metal before all the cutting starts. Once stuff is cut out it gets twisted and deformed and the shape gets lost + a day later you'll struggle to remember how joins etc were put together. Well that was my experience but I'm getting on a bit these days!

    Pretty sure it would work even without the silly socks!

    http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/mr2-mk2-sill-repair-cheap-panel.40615/page-4
     
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  13. jenki Member

    Messages:
    191
    Location:
    Carmarthen, S Wales
    Going back to my days replacing cills on Mini's keep the doors shut or find a way of bracing the openings to ensure it does not end up too banana shaped
     
  14. C4irney

    C4irney Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Glasgow
    Thanks for the link pigeon, I've copied pretty much the way you've done it but minus them funky ass socks!! I'm a bit stuck, there is a sharp bend in the panel which I will either need to replicate (which will be difficult) or just cut higher up on the car and weld the panel on as is minus that contour. I fear that it'll make the side of the wagon very bland with no contours on the bottom, also unsure how it'll look as the bottom part of the door also has this contour.

    I've stopped for a coffee so will await some ideas. I tried propping the sill up on a couple of lengths of wood and chapping along a line I've drawn with a 3/8 extension. Whilst it is working, I fear it won't be anywhere near as neat as it should be.

    In the pic I'm pointing at the contour I'd need to replicate
     
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  15. Burdekin

    Burdekin Chief Bodger

    Messages:
    4,588
    Location:
    Aberdeen
    If you do a sketch and had the profile any decent sheet fab company could fold you a pair in no time at all.
     
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  16. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    1,884
    Location:
    london
    Could you get away with patching the missing piece of contour and then cutting the main join slightly below instead?

    When I did mine I did the butt weld on the curved part as I thought the steel would be slightly thicker anyway.
     
  17. C4irney

    C4irney Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Glasgow
    I've downed tools for the day while I have a think about this. I'm not sure what you mean pigeon?? I'm having a tough time trying to shape that contour into my new sill so I'll come back to it tomorrow with a fresh head on. Thinking it might just be easiest to ignore that contour and have a flat panel going straight up to the join, just don't want it looking like an 'industrial' repair.
     
  18. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    1,884
    Location:
    london
    I couldn't see in the pic....did you mean the concaved but that runs on the under side of the sill....looks like a stiffener?
     
  19. C4irney

    C4irney Member

    Messages:
    30
    Location:
    Glasgow
    On the last pic my finger is on it, I need to bend my sheet in towards the car again then immediately sharp bend upwards, it's quite a tough bend to do on such a long sheet without any fancy tools
     
  20. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    1,884
    Location:
    london
    Ahhh...I see. I generally find there are cheaper ways to do things with good results if you have a think....I find it a nice challenge actually . Could you tack weld a long piece of rod to the sill you are making and then bend it round the rod....then push it back over itself against a length of wood. I think trying to stamp it will be tough without a jig of some sort. I did my entire restoration using bits of wood, hammers and a vice. I reckon it's still doable just need to let the grey matter Erik for a bit.
     
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