- Thread starter Jelly_Sheffield
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Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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Installing the OEM front fog kit was a bit of a faff to say the least.
The instructions state it should take around 1hr to fit...
This might be accurate for it's intended purpose as a dealer-fit option (HL2 and HL3 spec didn't get them as standard) but if you don't have the required de-pinning tools*, it's not nearly so fast.
Nevermind on an older vehicle with a winch in the way of removing the bumper.
*You have to de-pin the main ignition connector to install an auxiliary loom and relay, doing it without the special removal tool feels like you're constantly one wrong move away from rendering the vehicle inoperable, which you absolutely are.
By far the worst part was feeding wiring through the bulkhead grommet, it has a protruding tube that you're meant to slit at the end and feed the wire through to maintain the seal.
Unfortunately when you do that it's so tight that it takes forever and when you finally manage it the blade connector on the wire you're feeding through has been mangled by the pressure from the grommet.
This is all made worse by the fact the engine-bay loom already has the connectors installed for front fogs, but accessing the required wire from that loom to hook them up would mean splitting the entire main wiring loom under the dash...
So it still makes sense to fit the new auxiliary loom from the kit, but you know it's a redundant exercise the whole time you're struggling to do it.
Once you get the wire in from the engine bay, you then discover it's too short to connect up without it fouling on the pedals unless you lie on your back in the footwell to painstakingly feed it over the top of everything then bring a loop of the internal loom up through a narrow gap to meet it.
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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Found my annoying rattle!
It's the front prop-shaft spider at the transfer case end, it's way too loose and has about 6mm play (Toyota says to assemble with no more than 0.05mm of play).
I suspect that one of its bearing cups is failed to allow that much play, but it's like £18 to replace them all and the spider.
I also realise now why I didn't spot it previously, because it's the side of the joint that you don't put any pressure on when you grease it, so it always felt solid, until I just happened to see it move when I was pulling the grease gun off.
It's the front prop-shaft spider at the transfer case end, it's way too loose and has about 6mm play (Toyota says to assemble with no more than 0.05mm of play).
I suspect that one of its bearing cups is failed to allow that much play, but it's like £18 to replace them all and the spider.
I also realise now why I didn't spot it previously, because it's the side of the joint that you don't put any pressure on when you grease it, so it always felt solid, until I just happened to see it move when I was pulling the grease gun off.
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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- Sheffield, UK
So I eventually got round to fixing the front prop, as it was sounding noticeably worse today whilst I was driving to buy paint thinners.
Kinda hard to show play in photos, but if you look at the change in the gap at the top between the two photos, and then remember these should have 0.05mm (about 2 thou) of play according to Toyota... The issue is obvious.
Once I got them apart on the bench and compared to a new bearing cup, the issue was obvious:
Reassembly went fine, with zero drama.
The only issue was torquing up the bolts which is not difficult per se just awkward.
I did manage to leave the torque wrench on a bold whilst trying to push the truck forward to rotate the prop...
I couldn't understand why it wouldn't move but kept clicking every time I pushed, and thankfully looked underneath car before trying to drive it forward.
Kinda hard to show play in photos, but if you look at the change in the gap at the top between the two photos, and then remember these should have 0.05mm (about 2 thou) of play according to Toyota... The issue is obvious.
Once I got them apart on the bench and compared to a new bearing cup, the issue was obvious:
Reassembly went fine, with zero drama.
The only issue was torquing up the bolts which is not difficult per se just awkward.
I did manage to leave the torque wrench on a bold whilst trying to push the truck forward to rotate the prop...
I couldn't understand why it wouldn't move but kept clicking every time I pushed, and thankfully looked underneath car before trying to drive it forward.
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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- 1,227
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- Sheffield, UK
Yeah the very same...
The props and spiders are all Dana-Spicer who (as Salisbury) I believe were also responsible for the rear running gear of the 101, newer Series 3, and Defender.
As is I was able to get in with a deep drive 3/8 impact socket, but it's awkward.
sako243
Member
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Propshaft bolt removal tool
Britpart DA1119 Propshaft bolt removal tool (usually 14.50GBP)
www.paddockspares.com
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Makes a hell of a difference.Propshaft bolt removal tool
Britpart DA1119 Propshaft bolt removal tool (usually 14.50GBP)
I think I still have mine, if I can find it @Jelly_Sheffield welcome to it for postage.
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
- Messages
- 1,227
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Had to repair the little tab on the bumper that holds the trailer socket, as it finally succumbed to fatigue from getting knocked when backing the trailer into the only spot I can park it in.
After doing that, I figured I would do something that's been a long term "get round to it" task and paint the rear bumper.
I picked garishly bright orange (the photos don't do quite how bright it is justice) because I have had several close calls with other drivers almost scraping the side of their car on the towbar trying to get round me when stationary in car parks, or tailgating me and not clocking that they were about a foot closer than they thought.
No excuses now, but also hopefully a deterrent to not get so close.
It took a little bit more work, but I was able to preserve the type approval tags for the bumper and towball.
Type approval isn't strictly necessary due to the age and type of vehicle, but I already had it, and if it saves me having to explain it to an overzealous MOT tester, then worth the extra 10-15 mins.
After doing that, I figured I would do something that's been a long term "get round to it" task and paint the rear bumper.
I picked garishly bright orange (the photos don't do quite how bright it is justice) because I have had several close calls with other drivers almost scraping the side of their car on the towbar trying to get round me when stationary in car parks, or tailgating me and not clocking that they were about a foot closer than they thought.
No excuses now, but also hopefully a deterrent to not get so close.
It took a little bit more work, but I was able to preserve the type approval tags for the bumper and towball.
Type approval isn't strictly necessary due to the age and type of vehicle, but I already had it, and if it saves me having to explain it to an overzealous MOT tester, then worth the extra 10-15 mins.
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