Only went up the garage between 4-6, had a bit of a tidy up then mixed up equal parts of Epoxy Mastic 121 and brushed it onto the fresh primer. I know it should be applied onto bare metal but I already used etch primer so hoping it should be ok.
Looking great there....I generally do the same with epoxy and been OK so far...bare metal is great...if you have a sand blaster and can get it cleaner than an operating theatre. But in the real world (well my real world at least)...I can get it as good as possible and thats as good as it's going to get. In my head etch primer should give a good key to the steel. I've recently started using dinitrol rc900 on the bare steel...its a rust converter and epoxy clear sealer....I'm planning to just key it and go over the top. I did a car about 4 years ago this way and so far it's looking very good.
Cheers for the tip fella. Dinitrol stuff is mega but also expensive. I have some BiltHamber Deox Gel here but not tried it yet. Just googled it and found a post on detailing world, the guy Peter they're speaking about with the Sylvia also restored a Mini Cooper 500 and he was the reason I purchased it when I had the mini. Never used it yet but look at the pics here of the Sylvia hub! http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=57228&page=3 Cheers Lyn
A couple of hours today saw me repair the inboard end of the chassis cut I replaced so long ago. Got it in etch primer to stop any flash rust. Also got my plasma cutter out as I found it hard work with a grinder. I also removed the rear hub but couldn't shift the trailing arm as it is seized on the end of the torsion leaves. It was lifting from the other end but not off the top. I've left it soaking overnight.
Decided to remove the rear hub assy and clean & paint some bits with Rustoleum. Already looking better but loads to do. Once the last section of chassis is done I can concentrate on the beam then. Inside of the drum looking a bit tired though. Need to order some bits.
Stripped off the drive shaft and back plate earlier and found a tub of Bilthamber Deox C I had purchased when I had the Mini but forgot about. This stuff mixes 1 part powder to 19 parts warm water and just leave your rusty bits to soak overnight. For bad rust you can do 1:4. I decided to drop in a load of bits like the brake seperators and bolts etc along with the hub assy and only half the back plate to see the difference. I'll do the other half tomorrow along with the drum. I also stuck in the rear shoe backing plates but only submerged half as a comparison. This was only after 1 hour in the solution and no rust agitation! This was after a flash over with the wire wheel! Best thing is you can save the solution a keep reusing it until it turns black! My stuff is back in the bucket until tomorrow.
Got my tubs emptied and cleaned off. Happy enough but it's not the most amazing outcome. Cleaned off the back plate and stuck it in the solution for another evening. I may get a new part yet. Be a shame to spoil an otherwise nice job. We'll see. Brake arms look ok and once given a coat of satin black will be ok. Hub looks ok and wil be fine once it's had some paint. Bolts cleaned up pretty well. Look at my flower pot underneath, no coating left on it!!! Remember that brake shoe?
A spare hour or so saw me wash off the back plate and give it a coat of Kurust, also etch primed the brake bar and handbrake arm and hub centre and gave them a coat of satin black. Gonna carry out the repair on the back plate tomorrow and hopefully give it all a coat of Epoxy 121 whilst I await the brake parts from Machine 7.
This mornings work was repairing the back plate. Sorta wish I'd sprayed the Epoxy instead of brushing it. Too late now. This afternoon I made a start on the remaining chassis repairs, a little more to do and it should be ready for the torsion tube gusset plates.
Hi Exuptoy....nice bit of welding on that back plate m8. On the epoxy I find brushing it on and then going over it with a mini foam roller produces quite a nice result. I usually do 2 or 3 coats with the roller and the finish comes out quite consistent so looks acceptable. Wouldn't paint the top of the car with the roller but for under side and engine bits it works very well.
Cheers dude, my welding has gotten better doing this project as you can imagine. Funny you should mention the roller as I just did exactly that. I brushed the latest repair in and redid the original chassis section with a mini roller. Nice finish. So, after my last update the wife said she was off out with the daughters so I went back up the man cave and finished off. Then I painted half the torsion tube with Rustoleum. Aside from a couple of fillers around the torsion tube to strengthen up the chassis I think all underside welding is done. Still lots to do under there before it goes back on its wheels though. Not pretty but functional and I've saved 50 quid in the process. Anyway who's gonna see it once it's fitted! Almost there.
No worries...I also add a splash of thinner in there and then do several thin coats. I quite like the roller finish...will be doing the whole under side of the Figaro with a roller I think.
Got home from work to a parcel from Machine7. Couldn't resist seeing how things looked and ended up building the backplate up. The only thing I have forgotten is the step which is missing from the backplate. Anyone know the reason for its inclusion? Do I need to Spot weld it back behind the cable? Still need to paint the hub and replace the bearings.
A long day today. Stripped the bearings from the rear hub, pressure washed and de-greased it then gave it a coat of Rustoleum along with the new torsion bar end cap. Flicked some satin black over the drive shaft stub. Got my 1kg package of Citric Acid (£5.49 delivered), mixed half of it with 10L of warm water in a builders bucket and after running a flap wheel over the very rusty rear drum and stuck it in the solution along with a fish tank heater, as the CA works better with warm water, then lifted it out after about 2 hours to agitate the rust then stuck it back in for another 2 hours with a fresh sprinkle of CA to top up the solution. Totally amazed and every bit as good as the Bilthamber Deox-C which is essentially CA and over 3 times the price! Look at the result! I've left it soaking in Kurust until the morning before it gets a coat of paint. Next up was fabricating and welding on the fillet around the torsion bar to strengthen an otherwise known weak point when rust attacks. They have been known to snap off. Gave it a good coat of paint after. Still need to swap over the end cap once it dries so used the new one for the other side with new rubber doughnuts.
Looking very good....I use the CA all the time, tried other products but for the price CA can't be beaten. Also good around the house for descaling the kettle too with none of the horrible smell of vinegar or worries about chemical contamination. On items that will get hot I use VHT paint...I've found it to be very good indeed.
man, those are great results with the CA.....very impressed. great job on tackling the welding too!...you are brave! JP
Thanks JP. Brave isn't a word I'd use. Stupid maybe? I was advised after I purchased it that I should scrap it as it was so bad or I could pay the guy £4K to get the chassis up to a standard. Well pretty much bar dropping out the beam for a little repair when it gets back on its wheels, the chassis is finished.
