- Thread starter Bryan Williams
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Migmac
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They are the first thing I take off my cars
I have this job to do on Dad's golf. I got 3 off with the lock key but the last one wouldn't budge. Despite being careful I still managed to wreck the lock key. Funnily enough it was the wheel that has recently had a new tyre fitted & the gorilla tyre fitters used their Milwaukee M18 nut guns to tighten all the nuts up before giving them an ineffectual check with a torque wrench! 
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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my Mondeo this time. Ordered 2 new tyres. Back street place my family has used for years.Went to collect / have them fitted and produced my two brand new rubber, slotted pucks to protect the sills. Over the years I've been a bit concerned they put their trolley jack direct under the sill.
Handed over the locking wheel nut from its little bag where it lives in the glove box. They seemed a bit put out when I asked them to use the pucks so said by all means position the jacks, jack it up myself so I was happy. It needed to be jacked up on 3 jacks.
There was some commotion with a new younger lad there having hassle with my locking wheel nut tool. Next thing he's fitting it with a club hammer! Consequently it keeps slipping off when trying to undo the locking wheel nuts. The proprietor intervenes. I suggest the lad has ****ed it hammering it on. The proprietor counters that he "only tapped it on" but then that the locking wheel nut tools are made from "very soft metal". I'm pretty peed off by now.
Then there's a conversation where he says it was already like it, I say it's only them who've ever fitted tyres for me, if I've had the wheel off it's been nutted back up to book torque (I'm particular about that). He then says they only ever "nip up" locking wheel nuts. They wheel nuts btw are fitted with copper slip.
They try impact guns of various strengths to no avail. I try. They try a tool that you hammer into the wheel nut that "deforms" to the nut shape. There's a suggestion to "Dremel" it off. Eventually they drift off leaving me to it.
I take it off the jacks myself, walk into the office and tell the proprietor I'm leaving and will source a new tool from Ford.
I get home and speak to Ford. They need the key code, a photo and it'll be 2 to 3 weeks from Germany.
This is one of the locking wheel nuts. The spinning collar type.
Tried a place online who allegedly match a new tool to your photo but they couldn't help.
Any suggestions welcome. As to what removal tool to buy etc. Now driving a car with one tyre close to the limit and I'm screwed if I get a flat.
Good old McGards. POS. Best removed and placed in a skip.
By the sounds of it, they did try a decent quality removal tool, which if it didn't shift them, then it's going to take a bit/lot of effort to shift them.
I've not had to deal with them for a long time, but I'm sure @premmington has shared his techniques before.
By the sounds of it, they did try a decent quality removal tool, which if it didn't shift them, then it's going to take a bit/lot of effort to shift them.
I've not had to deal with them for a long time, but I'm sure @premmington has shared his techniques before.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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When you say "prise off" the spinning collar, with what?
Once off I reckon my set of Irwin nut removers will sort it. Just been a blasted all round them with a can of Lidl W5 "do it all" squirty, penetrating, anti squeaky stuff. Really good inbuilt nozzle / tube.
premmington
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Kram
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Those sets are not great and very slow work in a dremel, better in a die grinder, however I dont think any of them are small enough to get access that will actually work.
I think my approach would be stick a 6mm pilot drill the bolt and then a small holesaw, or even, might be quickest to drill the head off and extract the rest with a pipe wrench after the wheel is free.
I wouldnt want to weld anything connected to car, just incase electrics get fried.
I think my approach would be stick a 6mm pilot drill the bolt and then a small holesaw, or even, might be quickest to drill the head off and extract the rest with a pipe wrench after the wheel is free.
I wouldnt want to weld anything connected to car, just incase electrics get fried.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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It's not a bolt it's a locking wheel nut, on a wheel stud that projects from the hub. Getting that spinning silver ring off is the key, no pun intended.
I've several generic, Dremel like bit sets and some very small metal chisels.
Only 4 to do!
Melvyn Best
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Along with radio codes and immobilisers
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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All 4 spinning collars came off a doddle with a pointy, diamond grit bit out of an old Dremel esque bit set bought from Maplin. Cut so far then banged a wedge in in the form of an old, sacrificial screwdriver.
They're off leaving a 19/20mm dia, round "nut". Went to Halfrauds to get a Laser tool that gets 3 stars!
It's crap and doesn't work.
They're off leaving a 19/20mm dia, round "nut". Went to Halfrauds to get a Laser tool that gets 3 stars!
It's crap and doesn't work.
Cobbler
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Not a fan of Laser tools, I had the misfortune to need to ring their helpline about a product, put it this way, helpline was the wrong terminology.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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These:
Laser Locking Wheel Nut Remover 2pc | Halfords UK
Shop the latest Laser Locking Wheel Nut Remover is made of heavy-gauge impact steel. at Halfords UK
www.halfords.com
Wonder if I can take them back?
Now I've ordered these:
Plus I knackered my 19mm Irwin so need another one of these!
I can see the welder coming out for this.
A possibility is get the oxy on what's left and try banging a socket on so it deforms what's left into a hex. I've already tried hammering on an 18mm 1/2" socket onto the nom 19mm dia bit that's left - no joy.
