It's ac on the wiring diagram, but Paul has bought 24vdc coiled contactors so he has a rectifier. The picture in #94 I assume is Paul's, but the wiring diagram is what he is trying to copy (someone else's) with 24vac coils.
- Thread starter Welderpaul
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It's ac on the wiring diagram, but Paul has bought 24vdc coiled contactors so he has a rectifier. The picture in #94 I assume is Paul's, but the wiring diagram is what he is trying to copy (someone else's) with 24vac coils.
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This is correct
Been out walking the dog:
So to summerise, DO NOT TURN THE POWER ON.
I'll re-draw the wiring diagram to what I think you have, but it will be this evening when I get time as I have to go shopping.
I assume 1 & 4 are the contactors you are using and the suds is just a simple on/off switch and capacitor running single phase?
So to summerise, DO NOT TURN THE POWER ON.
I'll re-draw the wiring diagram to what I think you have, but it will be this evening when I get time as I have to go shopping.
I assume 1 & 4 are the contactors you are using and the suds is just a simple on/off switch and capacitor running single phase?
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Haha, noted. I've left it alone for today!
Yes. 1 and 4 are the contactors i am using and the suds is a 230V supply via the original switch to the pump with a capacitor to create the third phase.
daedalusminos
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Only switches 2 and 3 of contactor 4 have mains on them, switch 1 is your 24V NVR relay setup
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Thanks for taking the time to do that Richard, I'll swop it over tomorrow.
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Right, mixed news!
Checked the wiring against Richard's mark up and all correct so not changed anything. Closed eyes, crossed fingers and switched on. No bang, no black fingers, so all good so far. A faulty 1A MCB fooled me for a minute or two, so put a link across it for now.
Work light works, suds pump works, indicator lamp works. Contactors clunk when power goes on/off.
Lathe works direct from the VFD, but...only if i use the VFD front panel controls.
However, mushroom E stop does not work, gear cover limit and foot brake do not work, and the speed potentiometer doesn't work. Run/enable switch doesn't work.
The apron fwd/rev lever does nothing.
Is there likely something wired wrongly or is it a VFD programming issue??...Does it need programming?
In other news i've finally stopped the apron leaking. Four oil leaks - a new gasket and Hylomar on the bottom cover eventually solved the last weap.
Checked the wiring against Richard's mark up and all correct so not changed anything. Closed eyes, crossed fingers and switched on. No bang, no black fingers, so all good so far. A faulty 1A MCB fooled me for a minute or two, so put a link across it for now.
Work light works, suds pump works, indicator lamp works. Contactors clunk when power goes on/off.
Lathe works direct from the VFD, but...only if i use the VFD front panel controls.
However, mushroom E stop does not work, gear cover limit and foot brake do not work, and the speed potentiometer doesn't work. Run/enable switch doesn't work.
The apron fwd/rev lever does nothing.
Is there likely something wired wrongly or is it a VFD programming issue??...Does it need programming?
In other news i've finally stopped the apron leaking. Four oil leaks - a new gasket and Hylomar on the bottom cover eventually solved the last weap.
@Welderpaul
"However, mushroom E stop does not work, gear cover limit"
With the power disconnected - on the main power contactor #4 disconnect A2 (coil -ve). Check the wire continuity to the negative terminal of the bridge rectifier. There should be continuity to the -ve terminal, with either the mushroom Estop engaged or gear cover open there should be an open circuit. This effectively disengages the coil so the contactor will not pull in. Check the wiring into the coil terminals A1 and A2, A1 should be the feed +ve.
Contactors going click when power goes on - the #4 contactor coil should not engage unless the run/enable button is pressed. Check continuity from the rectifier positive terminal to the #4 contactor A1 terminal (+ve) there should be an open circuit until you press the run/enable switch.
These are on your control circuit and just supply power to the VFD.
"However, mushroom E stop does not work, gear cover limit"
With the power disconnected - on the main power contactor #4 disconnect A2 (coil -ve). Check the wire continuity to the negative terminal of the bridge rectifier. There should be continuity to the -ve terminal, with either the mushroom Estop engaged or gear cover open there should be an open circuit. This effectively disengages the coil so the contactor will not pull in. Check the wiring into the coil terminals A1 and A2, A1 should be the feed +ve.
Contactors going click when power goes on - the #4 contactor coil should not engage unless the run/enable button is pressed. Check continuity from the rectifier positive terminal to the #4 contactor A1 terminal (+ve) there should be an open circuit until you press the run/enable switch.
These are on your control circuit and just supply power to the VFD.
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With the power disconnected - on the main power contactor #4 disconnect A2 (coil -ve). Check the wire continuity to the negative terminal of the bridge rectifier. There should be continuity to the -ve terminal, with either the mushroom Estop engaged or gear cover open there should be an open circuit.
With #4 contactor terminal A2 wires removed there is continuity between (empty) terminal A2 and negative on the rectifier with estop/gear cover limit switch open or closed.
The estop/gear cover circuit is correct as i checked this before the remainder was wired, and rechecked now, - opening either switch breaks continuity.
This effectively disengages the coil so the contactor will not pull in. Check the wiring into the coil terminals A1 and A2, A1 should be the feed +ve.
Powered up, there is 24V across contactor 4 terminal A1 and transformer negative terminal.
Contactors going click when power goes on - the #4 contactor coil should not engage unless the run/enable button is pressed. Check continuity from the rectifier positive terminal to the #4 contactor A1 terminal (+ve) there should be an open circuit until you press the run/enable switch.
No 4 contactor will only engage when the run/enable button is pressed (The run/enable switch does work - I got this wrong yesterday). With power off there is continuity between rectifier DC + terminal and contactor 4 A1 terminal with run/enable switch not pressed.
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Run / enable - that's good.
With power off there is continuity between rectifier DC + terminal and contactor 4 A1 terminal with run/enable switch not pressed.
Probably feeding through the diode and lamp, just pull the lead off negative terminal to check, but as run switch is working as it should I wouldn't bother.
"The estop/gear cover circuit is correct as i checked this before the remainder was wired, and rechecked now, - opening either switch breaks continuity"
Do they work now to disengage the coil contactor 4 when either open?
If so then all others should be with programming VFD
With power off there is continuity between rectifier DC + terminal and contactor 4 A1 terminal with run/enable switch not pressed.
Probably feeding through the diode and lamp, just pull the lead off negative terminal to check, but as run switch is working as it should I wouldn't bother.
"The estop/gear cover circuit is correct as i checked this before the remainder was wired, and rechecked now, - opening either switch breaks continuity"
Do they work now to disengage the coil contactor 4 when either open?
If so then all others should be with programming VFD
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Pressing the E stop or opening the gear cover has no affect on anything. Contactor 4 stays in.
Pressing the E stop or opening the gear cover has no affect on anything. Contactor 4 stays in.
What are they connected to? They should be the only way through the coil to the negative terminal on the rectifier, if either of these is open then there should be no power going through the coil. I have coloured the return to the rectifier green (and made a better picture!).
What are they connected to? They should be the only way through the coil to the negative terminal on the rectifier, if either of these is open then there should be no power going through the coil. I have coloured the return to the rectifier green (and made a better picture!).
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I don't understand this mark up, This now changes the polarity coming out of the rectifier? I.e The original circuit drawing shows what you show as green (negative) as positive and visa versa.
I've switched the terminals coming out of the rectifier to test this and the contactor won't latch in when the enable button is pressed.
Which original circuit drawing?
Put the rectifier back as it was so the run switch latches the coil and open the gear cover, if it doesn't stop there is something wrong with the return from the coil to the negative terminal because this should be disconnected when the door is opened.
Put the rectifier back as it was so the run switch latches the coil and open the gear cover, if it doesn't stop there is something wrong with the return from the coil to the negative terminal because this should be disconnected when the door is opened.
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This drawing. I've got the positive 24V going from rectifier up to the mushroom...your mark up shows this as negative?
I've been through the wiring again and spotted a bit that i had missed - the link between terminal C1 and the coil on contactor 1. Put it in but nothing has changed.
I've been through the wiring again and spotted a bit that i had missed - the link between terminal C1 and the coil on contactor 1. Put it in but nothing has changed.
