Drummond shaper

[6ply]

 

[arther dailey]

That's the original washer, not one I've made. In theory, that washer shouldn't ever be getting pressure/contact from the lever, in use. The underside of the lever is what contacts & takes any wear. That's why it seemed peculiar for the sleeve to be under length. That top nut & washer is merely to prevent the arm rising.

could it be as original spacer wasnt too short and that the original washer was machined with a rectangular piece underneath that matched the slot , the correct depth obviously to match that when nut tightened it did nt pinch up, giving clearance ?

 

[MattF]

so I don't quite know what has gone on in this shaper's history.

Quite oft some change, repair or modification has been made to old machines. This one of mine, the housing for the tool holder isn't original. That's why there were some screws on the side of it, to take out a small amount of play, as there's a bit of sideways movement possible on the toolholder. I haven't refitted those screws, as they're likely just going to wear grooves into the toolholder over time. I'll likely make another housing for it at some point.

 

[MattF]

could it be as original spacer wasnt too short and that the original washer was machined with a rectangular piece underneath that matched the slot , the correct depth obviously to match that when nut tightened it did nt pich up, giving clearance ?

Possibly. One never knows exactly how they may have been originally, unless one's ever lucky enough to see an original, unmolested example.

When I finally start using it, if I find owt I think can be improved, I'll likely make a reversible modification.

 

[zx9]

Quite oft some change, repair or modification has been made to old machines. This one of mine, the housing for the tool holder isn't original. That's why there were some screws on the side of it, to take out a small amount of play, as there's a bit of sideways movement possible on the toolholder. I haven't refitted those screws, as they're likely just going to wear grooves into the toolholder over time. I'll likely make another housing for it at some point.

You could make brass tipped screws to take up the play assuming there is no room for a gib strip type arrangement.

 

[MattF]

You could make brass tipped screws to take up the play assuming there is no room for a gib strip type arrangement.

Had considered that. No room for a gib. The amount of play is only slight, but I'm guessing it must have caused issues for them to add screws to adjust out the slack. It's also a bit roughly machined, & the thickness of the metal is relatively slim compared to the original, so I'm thinking a beefier, & hopefully more snug fitting, replacement is preferable.

That may actually be the first task for this shaper. I'm thinking of making the sides & back as separate pieces, & then screwing & pinning them together, rather than trying to remove a lot of metal from a solid block.

 

[MattF]

Adding the photocs to this thread of the replacement plate & shaft.

Old:



New:



Old fitted:



New, test fitted:



Do need to make a shorter spacer/standoff & bolt for where the lever attaches to that plate, to bring the lever back in line. I used 10mm bar. Previous & original were more around the 5mm/¼" mark.

 

[MattF]

Made a new spacer today. Was planning on making a new shoulder bolt too, from the ⅝" square stock, but realised I didn't have a collet large enough to hold it, & I couldn't be arsed resorting to the 4 jaw, so kept the original bolt & made an outside spacer too, to take up the slack.



Original spacer sat atop the two new ones, to illustrate how much the arm is moved back compared to before.



Alignment of the arm is pretty much spot on with regards to the edge of the table now. I'm happy enough with that alignment.

 

[MattF]

Finally got round to making a sleeve for the end of the shaft to mate up with the bore of the replacement handwheel.



After two cockups trying to make a sleeve from mild, I decided it was telling me it wanted brass. Made the sleeve with a closed end as the end of that screw is a bit battered, & it hides the now unused keyway.

 

[MattF]

Other than fixing it to that workbench, (it's the only place I think it can go, so I'm losing that as a general workbench), & popping the clapper & vice back on, it's all sorted now, I believe.

 

[MattF]

Another photo in slightly better lighting, so that it appears to be in a slightly less dungeonesque setting.

 

[6ply]

Another photo in slightly better lighting, so that it appears to be in a slightly less dungeonesque setting.

View attachment 498943

Looking good!

Don't you want to mount it on a tray of some sort? Cutting oil, general lube, and swarf is going to mess up that bench top which currently looks like new.

 

[MattF]

Cheers. Wasn't planning on a tray, (I'd never even given it thought), but now you've mentioned it, I may. Looks like I'm having a shopping session for large baking trays.

If the benchtop did get grubby, t'would be no big thing. I don't use glue when making stuff like benches or shelving, so all bits can be replaced or altered, if need be.

 

[MattF]

Just ordered these:

https://amzn.eu/d/6Rn5n23

They look like they should be big enough.

On a tangent, will paint adhere to stainless? Would prefer for them to be black. Not fond of the look of bare stainless.

 

[Gragson]

Another photo in slightly better lighting, so that it appears to be in a slightly less dungeonesque setting.

Well lit dungeon that, think I spotted a fingernail in the mortar

Tray seems a good idea and at 40x30 won't take up much space, if keeping it all together I would bolt it through to some OSB/whatever, then you could pick the whole thing up and bolt down to bench when in use.

As for colour, couldn't you have gone for teflon black stylie or even enamel type like this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Russell-Hobbs-CW11441-Vitreous-Including/dp/B076PBDKZS/ref=sr_1_4?crid=5EDRY8NYYR3O&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.GfaBNnnUI1R2Z1HxUAlzTyMcrGcsQiId00Wp18GrcFlxUEiJJa3v4y0VYxxVPmiOT5WjGUVCnXvCgJZDPJ9mzZ6_c3ndow13B2JKjZSP3Eh1cRpWeykWYZa7VjziSlo3ybeYGjaFE0JU0uyndNkuQRR3_VIP0SfItGIzbYXxlYiKN_nno0inxsBiwBOw27MdWbdH2WCdBdIU0AVxOLiS1btm570_QmiNO5Gq2KYCjoElSbns7o8T2nDqjxYXxuvbD9sSixsfhhy7yYcUYz3xOAQn3PsSBRc2TJpU4X4Oytk.NCpp8ke_kGbuglq9lfCio5t0Ok3s3zhAMI8G_1MYPGE&dib_tag=se&keywords=baking%2Btray%2B40&qid=1748889395&s=kitchen&sprefix=backing%2Btray%2B40%2Ckitchen%2C84&sr=1-4&th=1

Iv'e never used a shaper, looking forward to seeing your first project on it.

 

[MattF]

As for colour, couldn't you have gone for teflon black stylie or even enamel type like this

I could have, & did actually look at some enamelled/painted ones too, but the non-stainless ones I saw seemed to generally have a raised pattern on the bed, to assist with their non-stick ability, whereas the stainless are a flat surface.

 

[arther dailey]

Another photo in slightly better lighting, so that it appears to be in a slightly less dungeonesque setting.

View attachment 498943

I can see you arestruggling for space so out of compasion I will let you sell me that swinden for a ton , which I know is a kindness on my part but I don t like to see people struggle , corking job you have done on that shaper, love the original finish . all the best

 

[MattF]

if keeping it all together I would bolt it through to some OSB/whatever, then you could pick the whole thing up and bolt down to bench when in use.

Problem if I did that is that I'd have absolutely nowhere to store it. I'm truly that short on space.

 

[gaz1]

i like the flip over tops for that

 

[MattF]

i like the flip over tops for that

The underside of that bench is crammed full.