diesel help

[rich the mechanic]

Just seen the post sorry you did pin it, is it white smoking badly all the time ?
because if it was one tooth out it would bellow smoke all the time.

Initially yes but not a surprise the amount of fuel that got chucked down it but after getting it up to temp it's pretty much just at idle which is rough and the odd little bit on gear shifts, better when warm and cold idle is horrid for a couple of mins on start up.

 

[normspanners]

That is not one tooth out IMO,
one tooth is a massive amount and would smoke all the time.

 

[normspanners]

Just a point from an engine builder which re-enforces my point on head alignment.
Also some times the cams do not appear to be that tight. and can beak through constant flexing, whilst turning at high rpm

On Chrysler 2.2Land 2.5L engines, we’ve seen cases where the cam seized and broke because the cylinder head had been improperly straightened or resurfaced. Making the head surface flat by milling, grinding or sanding does not necessarily restore proper alignment in the cam bores. Nor does straightening a warped head in an oven restore proper cam bore alignment. The cam bores should always be checked with a straight edgeand feeler gauge after the head has been straightened or resurfaced to see if bore alignment is within specifications. If it isn’t, cam bores need to be bored or honed to restore their alignment. One reason why some head rebuilders may skip this step is because the cam may have to be replaced with one that has oversized journals, which adds cost. On some engines replacement cams or cam bore bearing inserts may not be available for making repairs, which means the entire head has to be replaced if the bores are chewed up or out of alignment.

 

[normspanners]

Read post 58 re: my 206

 

[normspanners]

With a little time and practice you can time an engine without all the pulley kits etc.
Only last night I was re-timing a bmw 316 1.8 n46 with twin VVT and adjustable valve lift, that had been wrongly timed, the timing kit is £200 plus, spent a little time checking the tdc position and the cam lobe position and timed it up perfectly without the kit at all.
I timed up a twin cam vauxhall red top, off the cam grinders spec, using a crank protractor and dti on the valve spring caps, then on the dyno we adjusted the vernier's to set full power we just had to move the inlet a fraction, on the vernier pullies and that lifted the torque figure a fraction higher at a particular rpm , exhaust cam was spot on, from the cam grinders stated settings.

 

[AndyStobbs]

With a little time and practice you can time an engine without all the pulley kits etc.
Only last night I was re-timing a bmw 316 1.8 n46 with twin VVT and adjustable valve lift, that had been wrongly timed, the timing kit is £200 plus, spent a little time checking the tdc position and the cam lobe position and timed it up perfectly without the kit at all.
I timed up a twin cam vauxhall red top, off the cam grinders spec, using a crank protractor and dti on the valve spring caps, then on the dyno we adjusted the vernier's to set full power we just had to move the inlet a fraction, on the vernier pullies and that lifted the torque figure a fraction higher at a particular rpm , exhaust cam was spot on, from the cam grinders stated settings.

How did you time the cam position wheels?

 

[normspanners]

How did you time the cam position wheels?

they are vernier wheels with adjustable radial slots under the black washers the black bit is held by the belt and the red hub turns inside and as it states on them advances or retards the cam to get optimum valve timing, where you need power ot torque in the rev range, you set them to as close to the mid position that the cam grinder has stated in his specs and then adjust on a dyno once engine has run in.

I use this type of wheel I have saved in a word doc so I can adjust to suit the dia of front pulley, print it off set up a tdc position marker then blue tack it onto the front pulley or bolt it through the centre, depending on application

 

[AndyStobbs]

No, I meant the wheels for the cam position pick up. IIRC they float on the ends of the cams, as do the pulley wheels?
Cams have flats at the back to lock them in position.

 

[normspanners]

Oh, on the BM cams are easy flats vertical ( to the head) then I set it to tdc, with vernier through plug hole then printed off a picture of the tool that was expanded to the correct size pasted to a card cut holes in the card to match the holes in the reluctor rings, that took 5/10mins mins then checked cam sensor plate /wheels position, locked up and checked again . 8oclock at night and no tool to hand.
PS now running as it should and not throwing cam position faults.

 

[normspanners]

Ps i did think about putting/ locking bolts in the reluctor ring with a nut either side and measuring down from the under side of the bolts to the head front face with vernier and matching the picture but opted for the easier ride of doing it by eye it was as accurate as needed.

 

[normspanners]

One car I did struggle with was volvo 4x4 auto turbo twin vvt petrol kept throwing cam position faults, I did the timing 4-5 times it is a right royal pain to do,but the position was right each time I checked, found in the end it was a cracked cv reluctor ring that was throwing abs out thinking it had tyre slip but was not showing abs fault, which would alter the boost and the cam timing and throw cam position faults, over a long time frame. it also used to put the n/s front brake on without informing us and was wearing the pads on that side !!
so the 'fault' with the engine was in the drivers side front wheel.
not some thing you would go for straight away !! mind you the thing has seven ecus that all have to work together.

 

[HughF]

Complicated systems are absolutely fine, provided the people who have to work on them have the design documentation.

 

[normspanners]

That volvo was a right jinxed car the owner had all the documentation from day one, but after the fiasco of the cv ring the car used to pull to one side, I at first thought it was the abs pulling the car but was pulling to the wrong side ? did computer four wheel alignment twice, did my way--- fish lines rectangle-- set up and measurement, (computer set up was out BTW IMO only as good as the man behind the computer)
turned out when I checked dia of the ns spring wire section volvo had fitted the wrong road spring, a few year previous but would not admit it saying someone else must have fitted another volvo spring??? YEH if ya like.
replaced spring perfect-------- ARGH !!! that car caused me a month of sleepless nights.
Also you dont get your just rewards for the hrs put in.

 

[TAITSIE]

Why?

Good question, must be the medication I am on and was thinking about pushrod engines, Dooh

 

[normspanners]

Good question, must be the medication I am on and was thinking about pushrod engines, Dooh

Yeah know the feelin i gave up the meds (betta blockers) after they made me crash the car when reversing on the mirrors blood pressure 80/50 --after the accident !!
tried to get the Doc to prescribe speed instead but he said NO!! (miserable I think)

 

[normspanners]

I'm out if ideas any suggestions are welcome.

Any Luck Rich ??

 

[rich the mechanic]

Not yet haven't had a chance hopefully the weather will be ok Saturday afternoon when I get back from work.

 

[CKJDJK]

If you have not got the shimming right for the total amount of metal removed then the pump timing could be out due to the wrong distance between the pump pulley and the cam pulley. When pinned, there may be insufficient tension on the belt between the two. Re check with the pins. do all fit easily? Advance the pump slightly on the vernier to add more tension and readjust the overall belt tension. Worth a try.

 

[rich the mechanic]

Ok with fingers crossed I think I have sorted it out. It was timing related I think due to lack of belt tension seemed to be too slack between pump and cam so got it where it should be popped the belt off and did it again and rechecked it a few times the tensioner looks to be nearing it's travel limit but hard to see properly.

 

[roofman]

Ok with fingers crossed I think I have sorted it out. It was timing related I think due to lack of belt tension seemed to be too slack between pump and cam so got it where it should be popped the belt off and did it again and rechecked it a few times the tensioner looks to be nearing it's travel limit but hard to see properly.

Shame on you...shouting at us the timings spot on..LOL Glad your sorted anyway