I bet it is 2nd mortgage money
- Thread starter dan.taylor.1
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dan.taylor.1
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Well the plain backed one should be nearly 1k new. This one was just over 300 and is just NOS.
dan.taylor.1
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Having never screw cut before I think I'd farm the first one out tbh! Adapter plate with bolt holes I can manage!!
Agroshield
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It would be possible to hold the ER40 chuck directly in the 4 jaw chuck in the first instance if you are keen to get started.
Use a piece of bar in a Jacobs chuck in the tailstock for initial alignment as that will save a couple of iterations dialing in the 4-jaw.
Use a piece of bar in a Jacobs chuck in the tailstock for initial alignment as that will save a couple of iterations dialing in the 4-jaw.
dan.taylor.1
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In fairness I've got an er40 chuck with a 40mm straight shank so could stick that in the 4 jaw and not bother with the collet chuck at all.
My Old Landy
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I do this, I bought the straight shank version so I didn't have to convert one to fit the S&B
dan.taylor.1
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No idea. Never had need of the accuracy to test them. I'd imagine the more you spend the better they are. These were all banggood or amazon specials so probably not that great tbh. I'll replace them as and when if they're not up to the job, but both chucks, and both shape collet blocks cost less than the bison 4 jaw...
My Old Landy
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I got 0.06mm on my ER20 and ER32. That is plenty for me and better than the 3 jaw?
Sorry, I misled you earlier as I don't have an ER40..... yet!
dan.taylor.1
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Well lifting plate machined today, I got 100x25 flat so it's wider than the drawing but that's just more surface to lift on so less chance of ballsing the ways... Went with an m20 long lifting eye bolt which is rated at 1600kg in use so 600kg more than the lathe.
Bottom plate is tapped M20 and the nuts are there as backup
Bottom plate is tapped M20 and the nuts are there as backup
My Old Landy
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Thats a nice job you have made of that Dan. A lot better than strapping the head and will last you a life time!
Very nice indeed - let us know how well it works.
I am definitely going to make one.
dan.taylor.1
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It really tested the (un) rigidity of my beaver milling machine. As charming and old as it is I'm glad it's going and a big Semco bridgeport copy is replacing it.
I've plenty of the 100x25 flat if you need some. It didn't seem that easy to get on ebay so I got an offcut from my steel supplier.
And a very nice mill it is
Mr Fixer
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That’s a really sturdy bit of kit you’ve made Dan. Can’t see that giving way in a hurry. Would probably rip the shears out before busting that
Will you use some card or anything between that and the bed as protection or not worry about it?
dan.taylor.1
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Its to the spec in the manual for the lathe tbh, just I bought 100mm wide stock not the 3.5" it specs. I'll probably put something between it and the ways but they're induction hardened so can't see mild steel harming them much...That’s a really sturdy bit of kit you’ve made Dan. Can’t see that giving way in a hurry. Would probably rip the shears out before busting that
dan.taylor.1
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Well it's home. Not in the workshop yet as I'm moving bits about to get it where I want it. Pic after we'd loaded it onto the trailer. No problem at all using the tractor to move it. Didn't move a mm with 6 big straps on it.
dan.taylor.1
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You're not wrong Phil. It was a nervous moment when the telehandler lifted it on the plate I'd made.
We had backup straps incase something went and a ratchet strap under the headstock end to keep it lore level. I think the position of the plate suits a non gap bed machine. Mines got a gap so could only go so near the chuck.
I was more worried about it bouncing a lot on the tractor trailer tbh, but it was rock solid. I even had it up to 40kph at one point..
