The chipmaster are D1-3 are they not?
- Thread starter Joe84
- Start date
To be honest if I had no tool holders that is what I would do.Sell the dickson to someone with more money than sense on ebay, and buy yourself a wedge type - that's a decision made for you right there.... p.s, you're welcome
Agroshield
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Yes they are. I think RDG have written something wrong in their text, but the part number for the chuck is correct for a D1-3 one.
Ahh OK i get you now.
OK so update on powering my chipmaster.
For hardiness I decided to leave the 3phase in 3phase out vfd in place because its an expensive unit and has remote speed control ect
I was then going to purchase a 3phase converter to which I've been informed that static will not work with a VFD so I must use a rotary converter, which at best will cause me £1400!
So it's either that or rip out the old VFD and replace with a new single phase in 3phase out option.
Has anyone fitted a VFD to a ship master with a 3hp duel voltage motor?
What sort of performance are you getting?
For hardiness I decided to leave the 3phase in 3phase out vfd in place because its an expensive unit and has remote speed control ect
I was then going to purchase a 3phase converter to which I've been informed that static will not work with a VFD so I must use a rotary converter, which at best will cause me £1400!
So it's either that or rip out the old VFD and replace with a new single phase in 3phase out option.
Has anyone fitted a VFD to a ship master with a 3hp duel voltage motor?
What sort of performance are you getting?
Hopefuldave
Intergalactic pot-mender
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Ta, the VFD plate helps - yes, definitely 400v input/output, next question: can you see / get a pic of the motor's plate? that'll indicate whether you can run it in delta on 240v, if so you could substitute a reasonably-priced 240 to 240 VFD and make you life simple - likely you can swap the incoming control wires like-for-like and have a working lathe! After that comes programming the 240-240, you can probably do that by powering the Siemens (it'll show undervolts, but the user interface generally works, at least on ABBs it does) and getting the configuration settings up on its display, transferring most to the new one with adjustments to the motor voltage and currents as per the motor plate for full-load Amps, base voltage, power factor etc.
If the fitted motor's 2HP or less, you could try the hack to run the Siemens inverter from 240, it would really help to see the motor plate - if it's dual voltage it's likely one of those is 240 3-phase (and t'other's 415), the alternative is 415/690 and that's unusual in anything below about 7HP! Are you SURE the motor's 3HP?
Dave H. (the other one)
If the fitted motor's 2HP or less, you could try the hack to run the Siemens inverter from 240, it would really help to see the motor plate - if it's dual voltage it's likely one of those is 240 3-phase (and t'other's 415), the alternative is 415/690 and that's unusual in anything below about 7HP! Are you SURE the motor's 3HP?
Dave H. (the other one)
That's the plate there Dave, please go slow, Im not that clued in to machine electrics and never heard of a vfd until amonth ago when I started researching lathes
Your knowledge greatly appreciated though.
Hopefuldave
Intergalactic pot-mender
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That's cracking! that'll run off 240v with an inexpensive 1p 240 - 3p 240 VFD (they go as low as about £75-80 but the cheapest aren't the most reliable. Secondhands are are available). Note the A 8.3/4.8 marked on the motor plate - for 240 and 415 respectively these are the rated full load current (to get your 3HP), a 240v VFD needs to be able to deliver *at least* that 8.3 Amps, it never hurts to go a bit OTT but never under!Inside the connection box on the motor there are six terminals - for 415 three along one side will be linked, this is star connection (think Mercedes badge, the join in the middle is where the three ends of coils are linked), the other three terminals will have 3 phases connected - the points of the star. To go to delta, all you have to do is take out the links and reposition them to straight across - like a three-stripe = sign - this links the ends of the three windings into a triangle or Delta - this puts 240v across each winding, from your shiny new (but not too expensive, Ni!) VFD.
On 415 mains because of the phase difference you'd also have 240 on each winding but 415 betwen star points (yeah, that's confusing, but you can represent it by drawing the Mercedes star with each spoke 240 whatevers long, then measuring point to point it'll be... 415 whatevers if you draw it neatly!).
Next up is the VFD "programming" - not as frightening as it sounds, it's mainly telling it which terminals have buttons, switches etc. connected and what they mean, plus entering the details off the motor plate. You can probably power the 415 VFD from 240 to read off the settings for start/stop buttons, or just trace the wires back and see what's normally closed (your meter sees a short unless you push button) or normally open (infinite resistance until you prod). There may be VFD settings you can either leave at the default or read from the old VFD and enter in the new one, or you can ask on here, loads of us have done this sort of thing (so not quite "shaved monkey" but not rocket surgery either).
Hope that helps, not confuses!
Dave H. (the other one)
Thanks Dave,
Inside the connection box on the motor there are six terminals - for 415 three along one side will be linked, this is star connection (think Mercedes badge, the join in the middle is where the three ends of coils are linked), the other three terminals will have 3 phases connected - the points of the star. To go to delta, all you have to do is take out the links and reposition them to straight across - like a three-stripe = sign - this links the ends of the three windings into a triangle or Delta - this puts 240v across each winding, from your shiny new (but not too expensive, Ni!) VFD.
On 415 mains because of the phase difference you'd also have 240 on each winding but 415 betwen star points (yeah, that's confusing, but you can represent it by drawing the Mercedes star with each spoke 240 whatevers long, then measuring point to point it'll be... 415 whatevers if you draw it neatly!).
Next up is the VFD "programming" - not as frightening as it sounds, it's mainly telling it which terminals have buttons, switches etc. connected and what they mean, plus entering the details off the motor plate. You can probably power the 415 VFD from 240 to read off the settings for start/stop buttons, or just trace the wires back and see what's normally closed (your meter sees a short unless you push button) or normally open (infinite resistance until you prod). There may be VFD settings you can either leave at the default or read from the old VFD and enter in the new one, or you can ask on here, loads of us have done this sort of thing (so not quite "shaved monkey" but not rocket surgery either).
Hope that helps, not confuses!
Dave H. (the other one)
Still a bit confusing but that's just because I don't know anything about motor's, single phase or otherwise, Domestic electrics yes but not machine electrics and certainly not 3phase, but I've a feeling I'm going to learn very soon
I think I'll go Monday and purchase a decent vfd and go from there, I've no issues spending a couple hundred pound on one..... certainly cheaper than a £1500 7.5hp converter.
Sorry to be a nuisance to the forum but unfortunately the interweb is of little use to my specific dilemma, you guys are a wealth of knowledge and I'm very greatful for all and any advice
addjunkie
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- Northumberland. Reet oot in the sticks
A vfd for my lathe
Hello everyone, I have decided to fit a vfd to my Harrison M250. The vfd unit I have is a Teco/Westinghouse E510. It is a fairly capable device with lots of programming options. This will be driving a 1.5 kW 240 volt 3ph motor. My Harrison M250 is a genuine factory single phase model. My plan...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
have a read of this
Agroshield
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These people do not sell rubbish:
AC Inverter Drives (230V) filtered by Power: 2.2kW (Page 1 of 11)
Electric Motor Speed Controllers for 230V Single Phase or 230V Three Phase Supply filtered by Power: 2.2kW (Page 1 of 11)
Main motor contactor with overload, suds pump contactor, thermal overload, ? Probably all redundant.
Main switch and forward/reverse switch, loads of fuses, a few connector blocks and a microswitch on the emergency lockout system. Probably all could be used dependent on how you want to wire the vfd.
What's the yellow block?
What switch gear controls the motor contactors.
Main switch and forward/reverse switch, loads of fuses, a few connector blocks and a microswitch on the emergency lockout system. Probably all could be used dependent on how you want to wire the vfd.
What's the yellow block?
What switch gear controls the motor contactors.
The yellow block from what I can gather is a 24v inverter of some kind for the worklight.
This set up actually has a vfd in it at the moment, unfortunately it's 3phase to 3phase.
So do I need an overload circuit breaker or contactors for a 230v single phase to 230v 3phase conversion?
The vfd is only controlling the motor speed and the motor direction (the black hexagon with blue wires)
Everything else can be single phase, I'll need a neew suds pump fir 230v.
This set up actually has a vfd in it at the moment, unfortunately it's 3phase to 3phase.
So do I need an overload circuit breaker or contactors for a 230v single phase to 230v 3phase conversion?
The vfd is only controlling the motor speed and the motor direction (the black hexagon with blue wires)
Everything else can be single phase, I'll need a neew suds pump fir 230v.
You can convert a 3ph suds pump with a capacitor to make it run on 1ph, mine runs like that.
Overload and motor contactors will be replaced by the 1 to 3ph vfd.
Have a look at the 24v supply to see if it is a multi tapped input so you can swap it easily to 240v in. Emergency stop system I would also run low voltage.
Run a 3 phase lathe coolant pump on single phase.
Here's a trick I learned from John Stevenson a while ago. 3 phase coolant pumps are quite happy to run on single phase using the same principle as rotary converters. All you have to do is wire a small capacitor like the ones you find in the old strip lights to the third phase and it'll work just...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
Overload and motor contactors will be replaced by the 1 to 3ph vfd.
Have a look at the 24v supply to see if it is a multi tapped input so you can swap it easily to 240v in. Emergency stop system I would also run low voltage.
This is what I love about this site, you all know your sh#te.
How would one use a capacitor to accomplish this and what size?
RobCox
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- Cambridge, UK
Google "Steinmetz connection". You'll get diagrams and a formula for calculating the value of the capacitor based on the hp (or kW) of the motor.
Any other chippie owners?
I'm really struggling to find oil for mine, especially Morlina S2 BL 10, I can find tellus 68 but its still ridiculous money for 20ltrs.
Online is the only place u can get it and then add delivery and your looking at about £130 and up for 20ltrs.
So has anyone found and used a replacement fir the morlina? I've heard any good premium quality 68 hydraulic oil would do for the tellus 68 replacement, Aby input will be great to get this thing going as my spindle head casting is empty ( I suspect a leak).
I'm really struggling to find oil for mine, especially Morlina S2 BL 10, I can find tellus 68 but its still ridiculous money for 20ltrs.
Online is the only place u can get it and then add delivery and your looking at about £130 and up for 20ltrs.
So has anyone found and used a replacement fir the morlina? I've heard any good premium quality 68 hydraulic oil would do for the tellus 68 replacement, Aby input will be great to get this thing going as my spindle head casting is empty ( I suspect a leak).
