Churchill Computurn 290 retrofit (again)

[Hood]

Bit of progress today, after a lot messing around updating the macro I eventually found the problems. The first is that it seems the macro wants a G91 command rather than the G991 that the manual states. The other problem I found was when I commanded an absolute move from the macro (G990 or G90) the axis would move in machine coords rather than work coords. I ended up just using incremental moves and got it all working.

The taper roller bearings also arrived (order from RS Saturday ) so I was able to fit them, had to make up a couple of spacer rings for the outer races and I will also have to make up a 1mm spacer for the arm where it bolts to the shaft, as a temporary measure I just used 3 washers.

All is now working well with the initial macro so I will now go ahead and do the other 2. I think however I will change the macro around so that the Z is positioned first then the X, reason being it is much easier for me to jog to the Z position as I can see it fully. Jogging to the X position initially means I am more or less guessing how far away it is from the probe, either that or I have to half clamber over the lathe to see

 

[Hood]

Got a bit more done to the toolsetter macros. I decided to change the order so that the normal and back turning tools started the routine on the Z axis, that means it is easier for me to see when manually positioning the tools.

 

[eSCHEn]

I really wish it went "boop" when it did its delicate little kisses

 

[Hood]

Now I have the toolsetter working I am wanting to try and have it operate via buttons on the control panel.
I think it can be done by altering the ladder to output macro commands when it sees inputs but I am awaiting confirmation from China to make sure.

If it will work then it means I will need to build a new cabinet to house the CNC control as I foolishly thought I would not need any extra buttons so made it a neat size.

I have drawn up the new housing with 30mm space in between the control and key panel and I will insert 7 buttons there to operate all permutations of the tool setter.

I then moved on to drawing up inserts for the buttons, this was what I did initially.

That represents the macro code number but also informs me the first move will be Z negative and the second will be X negative.

I then wondered if a more graphical image would be better so I came up with this one.

I personally think the second is better, it shows the motion the tool will take rather than just have it described via text.


Which do others prefer?

 

[Hood]

Oh and BTW if it does proceed then due to my skills at painting I am thinking that maybe getting the housing powder coated would be a better idea

The coaters say they can coat any colour if you can supply the RAL and I know that so..

 

[eSCHEn]

How about using a 45deg angle to indicate Z? I tried 60/30 but it looked not as good:

 

[Hood]

How about using a 45deg angle to indicate Z? I tried 60/30 but it looked not as good:
View attachment 192192

That isn't really depicting the motion though, you have to remember a lathe only has X and Z axes, well a standard lathe anyway.
So Z- is towards the chuck and z+ away.
X- is towards the centre and X+ away from centre. Because my lathe has a rear turret the X- is moving from back to centre.
Also my image is telling me that the initial move is Z- then back off a bit and move round to the X on the probe and move negative.

 

[Hood]

Got word back from China regarding inputs working macros and the way I thought it could be done is correct
So the project gets the green light, talking of colours however, which would be best for the buttons?
I am thinking Yellow, mainly because I have five and would only need to buy another 2

 

[eSCHEn]

Yellow or green, red's too hard to see. If you've got a bunch of yellow already then I'd be going with that as well

 

[Hood]

Yellow or green, red's too hard to see. If you've got a bunch of yellow already then I'd be going with that as well

The front is a kind of dark grey colour, text is white with mainly very light grey buttons but there are 3 green buttons on the panel.

I can get white buttons but they are a much brighter white and I don't think they would look as good.
the part where they will go is between the main control and the button panel so there will be a 30mm wide strip of green there.
Pic of buttons to the side to show alongside the panels, sadly cant fit them between to get a better idea.

Looking at that pic I am thinking Green may be the best, just means I have to buy 6 instead of 2

 

[eSCHEn]

No question not red - you can't even read it in that shot. Yellow or green, either will work mate as they're decent contrast and on the same bit of the colour wheel.

Personally I'd go with the yellow as it's the best contrast but I think either will work nicely

 

[MCKDAVID]

save you making a complete new casing and rewiring everything, would it not be easier to make an external add on case to suit the switching and the existing case... agreed it wouldn't look as clean as a complete new one; but a lot less work and it's a working machine, save you work and downtime too....

 

[Hood]

No question not red - you can't even read it in that shot. Yellow or green, either will work mate as they're decent contrast and on the same bit of the colour wheel.

Personally I'd go with the yellow as it's the best contrast but I think either will work nicely

Yellow it is

save you making a complete new casing and rewiring everything, would it not be easier to make an external add on case to suit the switching and the existing case... agreed it wouldn't look as clean as a complete new one; but a lot less work and it's a working machine, save you work and downtime too....

I had thought about that but any way I thought of doing it would make it look like an add on.

There is another option, I could make a hand held pendant that has the MPG, axis select switches, increment select switches and buttons for tool setter. It would make life easier for positioning the tools but the down side is the control can only have one MPG/Select buttons etc so the ones on the panel would be redundant and I kind of like them there most of the time.

I will have to think about what would be best.



In the mean time, whilst waiting for a cracked tank arriving, I have just put the Aluminium housing on the tool setter, fitted a plug and added some wire protection.

The only other thing I now have to do is chop the sliding door and fabricate a bit that will fit under the arm when in the raised position.

 

[Hood]

I have just looked at the manual and now remember why I do not want to go down the hand held pendant route.
As mentioned in the previous post you can only use the hand held or the panel MPG etc. But worse is if you enable the pendant then you also lose the feed and spindle overrides and also the external run and pause options. So that is the pendant route ruled out.

Had some spare time this evening before I headed home so got the grinder out and did some chopping, I will have alter the light which I had to remove and also make up a section for the roof that will sit below the tool setter arm to seal things up a bit.

 

[Hood]

Made a start to the cabinet today, got it tacked up and also found another yellow button so that is only one I now need. I am sure I must have one about here somewhere as I would imagine I bought 10 of them.
Printed up the decals and I think they look fairly decent, all except the odd one out

 

[Tractor Tony]

You do realise that a few years ago you would have been burnt at the stake for sorcery with all these strange symbols and computer codes.

Seriously I really admire you guys that understand the Black Art that is CNC coding.

 

[Hood]

You do realise that a few years ago you would have been burnt at the stake for sorcery with all these strange symbols and computer codes.

Seriously I really admire you guys that understand the Black Art that is CNC coding.

Who says I understand it

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Who says I understand it

Well if you don't, you're making a pretty good pretence at it.

 

[Hood]

Well if you don't, you're making a pretty good pretence at it.

I am a master of illusion

 

[Hood]

Got the cabinet welded up this evening.

Normally I would use a 2.4 filler rod but I wanted to have a higher bead on this so I used a 3.2 and it worked out ok.

That gave me extra material so as to give decent appearance once ground down. Normally I like to leave the welds but for something like ithis I think a cleaner edge is best.

Also welded up the hinge bracket from some 50mm Dia Alu turned down to 40mm, bored/tapped and then welded to some 10mm plate. I still have the top to cover over.