chassis protection

  1. johnser

    johnser Member

    Messages:
    1,921
    Location:
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    Bearing that in mind, I'd like to make the case for just doing more wax type product.

    Dismantle a bit if possible, then pressure wash, or ideally steam clean what you can. Remove anything loose and prep/treat/paint as you choose anything with surface rust and make sure it's not rusting through from the inside out.

    Then treat it all with a decent wax, dinitrol is pretty good but any are better than none.

    Won't be as tough or long lasting as a hard coating but with periodic investigation/reapplication is pretty good. Plus, adding another layer is way easier than going through the process of redoing a paint.

    Swings and roundabouts really, I guess it depends a lot on how long you want to extend its life and how big a job you reckon it's worth doing!
     
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  2. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,014
    Location:
    Kent
    I like that idea! maybe i will just paint the new bits I have welding in/on with the epoxy as it is bare metal, then use the 3m stuff over the top of the lot
     
  3. On the underside of my classic Mini, I used Jotun Jotamastic 87 With the Comp A Hardener. I first cleaned the underside to bare metal (as that was the recommended COA before applying an epoxy primer) IIRC, once the epoxy was cured I scuffed up the primer and then applied Seam Sealer in all of the seams before lightly sprayed U-Pol Gravitex Stone Chip with a Shutz Gun. Then a couple of layers of cellulose colour top coat. Still looking for Jotun 87 Epoxy Primer in 1Litre cans :-)
     
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  4. anjum Member

    Messages:
    1,150
    Location:
    London UK
    I used paraffin after a heatgun and scraper on the firebird. Abraded with grinder etc. Then thinners and panel wipe before lechler epoxy and raptor
     
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  5. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,014
    Location:
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    Ok so do I use a wire brush and rust converter first before jotun or shall i forget the jotun and use something else.
     
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  6. Dcal

    Dcal Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,820
    Location:
    Antrim Northern Ireland
    Have you a needle gun?

    Pressure wash and allow to dry.
    Wire brush to get as much off as you can.
    Rub down with 100 or 80 grade paper. (The small 2 or 3inch air sanders are great at getting into awkward spots.)
    Jotun 87 (I'd give it two good coats) You don't have to wait until it's all ready. Better to prep an area, mix just enough paint and get that area coated.
    When it's all primed - top coat of your choice.

    The wire wheel in a grinder will polish and close the surface which will leave a bad surface for paint
    Sanding opens it up again a helps the paint to stick.
     
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  7. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,014
    Location:
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    Yes I have a needle gun a air one. Never used it actually. What kind of air sander? Orbital one. The jotun is here ready to go.
     
  8. Ashley Burton

    Ashley Burton Member

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    Northamptonhire
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  9. Burdekin

    Burdekin Chief Bodger

    Messages:
    5,009
    Location:
    Aberdeen
    You have two choices, method Dcal suggests will be a good solution but you need to remove the rust and will be hard graft. An easier route is; remove the underseal with the needle gun and loose rust, wire brush or wire angle grinder to remove rust scale, paint on rust converter, then Dinitrol ML one coat and then two good coats of Dinitrol 4941. That will give good underbody protection. How precious is the vehicle and how much work do you want is up to you to decide.
     
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  10. Dcal

    Dcal Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,820
    Location:
    Antrim Northern Ireland
    A needle gun will leave a far better surface for paint but take off what you can with the wire brush in the grinder first as it's quick and effective for removing rust and loose stuff.
    Go over the bare steel / rust with the needle gun to give it a key.
    A sand wont hurt either and be sure to sand any paint / coatings that you are not removing.
    Any power sander is better than doing it by hand.
    An orbital is better

    I've a link below to the small orbital type I was thinking of (first one that came up)
    They are great for getting pressure on hard to reach but and are really cheap on sandpaper as I just cut 6 inch discs to size and they really wear it out.

    The roloc are great as well but a lot more expensive to run.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223868372962
     
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  11. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,014
    Location:
    Kent
    The vechile is not precious it is just a off road toy really in the making.
     
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  12. Dcal

    Dcal Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,820
    Location:
    Antrim Northern Ireland
    If you are putting a lot of other work into your toy to get it the way you want it, I'd give it your best shot.
    If you check it every year you can concentrate on areas where the coatings fails and put the work in to those (hopefully)small sections.

    I agree there are as many options are there are coatings so there is no right way.
     
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  13. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,014
    Location:
    Kent
    It's true I have neglected it for about 5 years now that was the last time it got undersealded with the 3m gear
     
  14. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,014
    Location:
    Kent
    Shall u jotun the winch bumper too
     
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  15. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,014
    Location:
    Kent
    A litre goes a long way, well 1.25l with the hardener, maybe even 1.5l with some thinners . I will mix less next time a lot less. I hope I didn't paint it on too thick.
     
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  16. Burdekin

    Burdekin Chief Bodger

    Messages:
    5,009
    Location:
    Aberdeen
    Will last a good while after being mixed, put some cling film over as well.
     
  17. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,014
    Location:
    Kent
    the destructions said pot life was a hour, I stretched it to 3
     
  18. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,014
    Location:
    Kent
    I am going to paint the bumper and rock sliders with Raptor Bed liner whats the drying time is it 48 hours at least for this Jotun 87 before I can do the raptor coat?
     
  19. anjum Member

    Messages:
    1,150
    Location:
    London UK
    With the Raptor, pretty sure it's got isocyanates in it.
    You don't have to mix the whole lot if you use a different sprayer or brush, just mix it into a separate pot in the correct ratio.
     
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  20. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,014
    Location:
    Kent
    Do i have to prep the Jotun before applying the Raptor bed liner? Or just brush, roller or spray it on?
     
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