chassis protection

  1. 123hotchef Member

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  2. Dcal Member

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    I'd say snake oil but I've never used it.

    It's been said often before on here - proper prep and an epoxy primer.

    Jotamastic 87A is my go to but other brands / flavors are available.
    The Jotun is also cheaper per liter than the snake oil but you do need to buy more of it.
     
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  3. 123hotchef Member

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    with the jotun how clean does the chassis need to be?
     
  4. Dcal Member

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    It's surface tolerant so does not need perfect prep (but it helps if it gets it)
    However oil, grease, muck etc. will be death to any coating.
    If you can get it clean and a quick run over with a sander to get the surface matt (paint or metal) it will last well.
    Also if you put enough on, it doesn't need a top coat.
     
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  5. 123hotchef Member

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    ok mate you have sold it to me i have always wanted to try a good epoxy primer, can it be brushed, sprayed and rollered?
     
  6. Burdekin

    Burdekin Chief Bodger

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    I use to think so and it is only superficial but a good few years back the gas terminal I work for went and removed loose rust on piping and coated it with a similar product, and the stuff they coated to my surprise hasn’t got worse. These guys https://www.facebook.com/preserveprotect/ and rust buster all use and recommend applying a rust converter. They steam blast, remove loose rust, apply the rust converter and then apply the wax. You can use it in cavities and on the outside panels. It is a lot less effort than prepping for paint, so depends on how big a job you want to make it.
     
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  7. 123hotchef Member

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  8. Burdekin

    Burdekin Chief Bodger

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    fizzy and Dcal like this.
  9. Dcal Member

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    It can be brushed, rollered or sprayed but if spraying just note it is supplied setup for airless spray. If you thin it and use a big fluid tip (2.4mm +) it sprays well, but a standard epoxy might be better for spraying.
    I like the adaptability of it as you can mix a bit and brush a small repair, or wait and spray big areas.
     
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  10. 123hotchef Member

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    is jotun 90 better than the older 87?
     
  11. Dcal Member

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  12. 123hotchef Member

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    does it need a hardener too
     
  13. Dcal Member

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    It's supposed to be a newer formulation so must be brighter and whiter.

    I think the 90 (and 87) relates to the solids to thinner ratio so 90 is thicker.
    If it too thick and you add more thinner it sort of defeats the purpose.
    The rep told me they are running both products in tandem so there must be little in it.
     
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  14. optima21 Forum Supporter

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    2,745
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    I just use jotun 87 on the underside of my cars with nothing on top of it, so far its looking pretty good. I use the winter grade as its easier to get the mixing proportions right in mixing cups as is 1:4 ratio hardener:epoxy and I brush it on. you have 1.5 to 2 hours working time while it is is still brushable.
     
  15. Burdekin

    Burdekin Chief Bodger

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    No. I used 80 as it could be applied thinner and you don’t want too thick a coating as it will chip off easier.
     
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  16. 123hotchef Member

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    doh i need to add the hardener then i ordred thinners and xpoxy didnt see hardener
     
  17. optima21 Forum Supporter

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    it might come with the hardener anyway, mine has in the past, but you can buy additional hardener, so best to check what you've ordered
     
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  18. Burdekin

    Burdekin Chief Bodger

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    It comes with the hardener, you only need to add thinners. If brush or roller you will get away with no thinners but thinners will make it easier to paint and look better.
     
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  19. 123hotchef Member

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    thats the smaller tin in the picture that is why i could not see it seperatly
     
  20. Dcal Member

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    It comes with the hardener as a pack.

    I can't find 87A on line but 90a is available.
    If it was me, I'd go for the 90A.

    @Burdekin link is as good a price as I've seen. Don't know about postage though
     
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