chassis protection

  1. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,347
    Location:
    Kent
    thanks guys ordered the 87 winter stuff couldnt see the 87A in a 5L only 1L on ebay. I will clean as best i can thinking flap wheel and discs on drill and grinder the degrease with brake cleanner or thinners or pannel wipe then brush it on, shall i tope coat it? if so with what. this is my off road 4x4 that gets used and abbused
     
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  2. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,347
    Location:
    Kent
    oh man too late, i was too eager
     
  3. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,347
    Location:
    Kent
    wait order is not placed yet cool
     
  4. Burdekin

    Burdekin Chief Bodger

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    Location:
    Aberdeen
    Aluminium, zinc etc epoxies offer probably slightly better corrosion resistance but are less surface tolerant so don’t bond as well. Take that into account.
     
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  5. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,347
    Location:
    Kent
    ah man now you are teasing me i am torn surface prep wont be the best in places its a 20 year old vechile been waxoiled and undersealed loads but rusty in places
     
  6. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,347
    Location:
    Kent
    ok after reading the specs 87WG will be better shall i top coat after?
     
  7. Burdekin

    Burdekin Chief Bodger

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    Location:
    Aberdeen
    You don’t need to but gravitex or similar will protect it a bit better from stone chips.
     
  8. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,347
    Location:
    Kent
    i got a few cans of that and a under body gun thanks
     
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  9. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,347
    Location:
    Kent
    so no rust treatment with a potion before the epoxy?
     
  10. Dcal

    Dcal Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,933
    Location:
    Antrim Northern Ireland
    No better not.

    The epoxy is tried and tested by the manufacturer and many other people on steel (even with a bit of rust) well adhered paint and the like.
    Some of the magic potions "might" work but more likely you will be applying the epoxy over a film that doesn't stick to the steel as well as the epoxy.
    If done properly the epoxy should last well over 10 years (If not damaged by abuse or accident and not repaired)
     
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  11. Wallace

    Wallace Member

    Messages:
    7,018
    Location:
    Staines, Middlesex, England.
    Go carefully with the Gravitex over the Epoxy, apply thin coats to let the thinners dry or it will attack the Epoxy if laid on thick. I had a faulty Schutz gun and had to scrape a whole floorpan back to bare steel.
     
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  12. Dcal

    Dcal Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,933
    Location:
    Antrim Northern Ireland
    @Wallace I must say I'm surprised at that.
    Was it applied wet on wet?
    I find cured epoxy is really hard to remove. (i.e. get the blaster or the angle grinder out)
     
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  13. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,347
    Location:
    Kent
    I was going to use the 3M under body gear as I have a few cans left.
     
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  14. Dcal

    Dcal Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,933
    Location:
    Antrim Northern Ireland
    The 3m is a good product to put over the epoxy.
    Follow the min and max re-coat times in the data sheet. (it's pretty wide)
    I tend to get the next coat on as soon as the epoxy is full dry, that way there is less chance of it getting dirty and the layers can cure (and bond) togeather.

    It's not the end of the world if you exceed the re-coat times, you just need to clean it and give it a quick flat with sandpaper.
     
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  15. Wallace

    Wallace Member

    Messages:
    7,018
    Location:
    Staines, Middlesex, England.
    No, the Epoxy was dry. My problem was twofold, the Schutz gun supplied with the Gravitex being faulty and not having used Gravitex before. When it went on really thick I knew no different and the Gravitex could not flash off lifting the Epoxy which I found worrying. With light coats and being allowed a flash time the Gravitex bonded really well. The Shutz gun had two faults, no bleed hole and the nozzle had Loctite on the thread but was not screwed home fully allowing too much paint into the airflow. Not sure how it worked without a bleed hole but the nozzle made the spray pattern more like a fire hose. I thought it worth mentioning for @123hotchef in case he had not used Gravitex before and piled it on.
     
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  16. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,347
    Location:
    Kent
    If i paint my sliders with the jotun can I top coat with the raptor bed liner
     
  17. Burdekin

    Burdekin Chief Bodger

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    5,077
    Location:
    Aberdeen
    Yes. Gravitex has a lot of solvents in it but raptor is 2k. Pretty sure it contains isocyanates so if spraying air fed mask is recommended.
     
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  18. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,347
    Location:
    Kent
    yes it is 2K i have used it a few times once with a air fed once with a resprirator.
     
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  19. I used Jotun 87 on my rear subframe and the underbody of my classic mini. Had a brake fluid leak, it took the top coat off but did not touch the epoxy!! Great stuff. I am looking for some more as I need to do a front Subframe but can only find the Jotun 90 and in 5L (way too much for what I need and about £70!! I only need about 1Litre.
     
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  20. 123hotchef Member

    Messages:
    9,347
    Location:
    Kent
    EBay have 87a in 1l
     
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